MGT

Completely fresh 18g build so maybe I'm just not used to all these new noises but I'm hearing this rattle under boost. Wastegate flutter? Exhaust leak? Rod knock? Doesn't really do it if I just rev with no boost.

 

It doesn't appear to be knocking under boost although I did see some knock readings show up under low rpm but I'm thinking that's because I just flashed the tune. I wanna say its just the aftermarket wastegate actuator they put on. Maybe someone could tell me if I'm just being paranoid haha.

 

 

Welp. Bought the car in 2016 and 4 years later finally decided to splurge and make the car as good as I can thanks to all you wonderful folks and this forum. I also replaced transmission 3rd-4th synchro's and shift fork during this time.

 

Build

 

Engine Mods

New Sti Crankshaft

New Sti Exhaust Camshafts

Sti Valve Springs/Retainers

Manley Pistons 99.5mm 8.5:1 & H-Beam Rods

King Race Rod & Main Bearings STD

ARP 11mm Head Studs

Sti Thermostat

IAG TGV Deletes

New 11mm Oil pump

 

Fueling Mods

ID 1050 Injectors

AEM 50-1215 High Flow 340LPH Fuel Pump

 

Turbo Mods

BNR 18G Turbo

Cobb FMIC Kit (2011-2014 WRX)

GFB MACH 2 TMS Recirculating BOV

GrimSpeed 3-Port EBCS (2015-2018 WRX)

 

Gauges / Sensors

AEM 30-0300 Wideband Gauge

AEM 30-4406 Boost Gauge

AEM 30-4401 Oil Pressure Gauge

Cobb 315650 Fuel Pressure Sensor

 

Suspension

Koni Yellows with H&R Springs

Whiteline Front & Rear Sway Bar Kit - BSK015

New Sparco DRS Wheels W/ Continental True Contacts Tour Tires (Stock Size)

 

Misc

Invidia Q300 Turbo Back Exhaust W/ High Flow Cat.

SouthBend Stage 2 Clutch

Torque Solution Billet Clutch Fork

Verus Engineering Billet Clutch Fork Pivot

Clutch Damper Valve Delete

Perrin Brass Shifter Bushing

Perrin Shifter Stop

Perrin Short Shift Adapter W/ Sti STS

Primitive Racing Skid Plate

 

Media

 

Suspension Setup

 

 

Intercooler mock up - Had to use spacers for crash bar and cold side was tight, but didn't have to cut anything other than the bumper.

 

 

Final product - Bumper already beat up after 150k miles so I didn't mind hacking it up a bit to fit the piping.

 

 

Engine bay - Might get SD tuned in the future and do away with the ugly recirc hose. Also have to tidy some things up. Functional for now though.

 

 

Gauge Setup - Had to use tiny flat head bolts to secure them to the top of the climate control. Might come up with some sort of bezel for a cleaner look in the future.

 

 

Case Halves with old crank - Thanks for the workbench @GTEASER

 

 

New crank, pistons, heads, studs... All together.

 

 

Trans was kind of tricky, but next time shouldn't be as bad.

 

 

 

I definitely skipped over some things, but just figured I'd share the major steps and interesting parts. Just about everything pictured was done throughout this year. Still in engine break in, but the engine, trans and suspension changes all seem to be working well.

 

This is a great car regardless of what's been done to it.

 

Haven't posted here in a while...

I'd like to document the whole process for my own personal experience. If I mess up the build and it grenades I'll certainly learn where I went wrong.

So I wanna do an engine build for fun. (I don't want to just buy a built shortblock and call it a day.)

 

I have a 12 GT. I'll need oem case halves/oil pan if I remember correctly. What else should I consider with our cars?

 

I plan on upgrading where I can. (Sti crank, cams, head studs, etc) I'd like to take my time and find deals on all (new) parts. I also don't wanna go too overboard and just get what I can to make it a bit more exciting to drive. I already have a stage 2 tune with supporting mods.

 

I'm starting fresh to replace my tired, high mileage, engine I have now.

 

Looking for advice, good deals on parts if you come across anything or any ideas/feedback to help me along the way.

 

I'll also post any progress I make on this thread.

 

I appreciate any input I can get!

Decent price for the miles, I think. Blue 2010. 104k miles for 11k. Looks to have aftermarket exhaust and intercooler. So perhaps some light treading/research needs to be done if mods were attempted. located in PA.

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?sourceContext=untrackedExternal_false_0&newSearchFromOverviewPage=true&inventorySearchWidgetType=AUTO&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=c21645&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity2=c23195&zip=20121&distance=200&searchChanged=true&modelChanged=false&filtersModified=true#listing=251253124

 

Checked that out today with a buddy of mine. He ended up getting a 3.6R at another dealership instead. Unsprung clutch, lowering springs, deck screws holding the fenders on and they put the exhaust on because it was straight piped at one point and sounded horrible. Someone put a new turbo on it. Also I guess previous owner spliced into the main harness instead of getting an adapter for an aftermarket radio that was previously installed. I believe the dealer corrected that though.

 

I'd personally stay away...

Anyone ever replace synchros? My 3rd gear grinds all the time, and I've replace fluid and clutch since it started and still have the issue.

 

Would I need any specialty tools, how do-able is the job once I drop the tranny?

 

I had an unhappy synchro on my WRX trans. Andrewtech in MD put their trans fluid cocktail in it and that got it acting normal again. Might be worth a try before surgery. Not sure what the cocktail contained, but it looked like blue laundry detergent.

 

Late reply but I need some insight. So last year I replaced my fluid entirely with Motul Gear 300 and the issue has only gotten progressively worse still. Do I attempt to fix my transmission myself or replace it with a used one (60k) ~ $1200. I'm afraid I'll just keep spending money on oil for no reason. I have been getting away with just double clutching for a while now but I'd like to get it properly fixed. I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks!

 

My transmission has 150k+ miles on it.

 

Edit: I've decided to try 3qt redline lw shockproof + 1qt motul cocktail first. I'll report back if it makes any difference.

Anyone ever replace synchros? My 3rd gear grinds all the time, and I've replace fluid and clutch since it started and still have the issue.

 

Would I need any specialty tools, how do-able is the job once I drop the tranny?

Nice MGT! I really like the results from the Perrin bushing and Kartboy short shift adapter.

 

I installed my Konis and Eibachs today, it was hot as poo and I'm beat... totally worth it!!

 

Yeah I have the factory short throw shifter as well so it's a good feel. Also ordered koni rears last night with the eBay discount. Now I'm just a set of springs and mounts away from a koni setup. Can't wait

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BRMpnyP44k]Perrin short shift adapter 2012 LGT - YouTube[/ame]

 

Exchanged my paper weight for a bigger paper weight today. Ignore the cotter pin the old pin shot into oblivion when I punched it out.

They finally get to sit side by side

 

Just bought a 2010 Forester X 5 speed to use as my daily while my car gets fixed...

 

Time to build race car.

 

Well so much for getting my short block replacement...

As soon as it warms up I need to put my car back together.

Koni's site catalog suggests to use the 8610-1447S for the front inserts. Just wondering what the difference is between that and the 8610-1453S inserts? I plan to pair them with 13-14 springs all around.

Convinced my mom to get a 2010 Forester XT. She says she loves it. I love it too

 

I'm not sure I understand your basis for disbelief, you misshift to 5th instead of 3rd but it displays 5th...like it should.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

Really not much thought put into it. Forgive me...

I guess it's still possible to tell using those numbers as well as throttle position now that I think about it. It is interesting though.

I'm not sure if I believe the RPM/mph to gear display theory. At least not on my car because if I misshift from 3rd to 5th it will display 5th despite the low rpm and slow speed. It also doesn't display until clutch is fully released.

Your answer implies you reinstalled your milk jug. If so, what was the reasoning.

 

Maybe what I wrote was poorly worded, but I removed it once and never put it back on since..

I've had milk jug delete for months with no issues whatsoever. It's very easy to do so you might as well try it. I really think the only way it'll trigger a CEL is if you forget to plug the MAF sensor back in.

Had to stop, love the view!

 

I hear the 5th gen LGT makes a good sleeper

Just preparing for the inevitable future as my clutch is begging to occasionally slip in high gear pulls. Just need confirmation that the Southbend Stage 2 kit will work with the '12 LGT (pn. K70406-HD-O)

 

Let me know and if not I appreciate any recommendations, thanks!

So my primitive skid plate is hitting all of them time. I believe my struts are just worn maybe, 145k on them. Is the koni inserts w/ stock 2014 springs worth all the effort? Just want a decent setup, lots of hills around here.