EmptySpartan89

I've had good experiences with the Pioneer CarPlay/Android Auto systems. Super good responsiveness and quality. I've had the AVH-3500NEX (single DIN) in my truck for a while now and love it.

Good to hear some positive feedback there. I’ve been looking at the Pioneer DMH 1500NEX. I’m thinking that’s the best bang for my buck.

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Just got my JDM double din in today. Now I just have to figure out what 2 din Bluetooth stereo I want and I have no idea what to choose for it lol

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OP- don’t suppose you’d have a jdm tail light garnish for the sedan would you? I’ve been trying to hunt one down for my 05 with no luck, I saw one place to buy the garnish for the wagon but that’s all I’ve come across

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PM sent

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So as I was tearing down my ej25 noticed the passenger head cam journal is scored all to hell, so I’m looking for a replacement used head that’s in decent condition.

Also I’m located in Ga, I’m a noob at the finer points of using forums lol

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Went on a spirited canyon run with a couple friends. The steering stability at 80+mph is insane... It was a good chance to get on the gas for a while before the oil change tomorrow. Only about 1500 miles in the last 6 months though lol

So your steering rack replacement sounds like it turned out very well! Lol

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Been in the middle of tearing the whole engine down, wanted to check the main and rod bearings after my turbo blew a couple weeks ago. Luckily it didn’t grenade. Pulled the pan, zero metal in it. Shook the rods, they’re nice and firm. Just got the driver side head off about 30mins ago looks solid, little carbon build up, but I was planning on cleaning everything anyways. Was wondering if anyone knew of any machine shops that can port and polish the heads in Georgia. I figure while I already have them off why not look into it.

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Update: Got the engine pulled, dropped the pan. Zero metal in it. Shook the rods, no play in them. Still going to split the block and check the main bearings plus I’m replacing all the timing components, gaskets, etc before doing these upgrades

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You guys are all switching to TIC f.u. bolts right?

First I’ve heard of them. I was already planning on replacing at least the one. Are the TIC’s better?

Looked em up, I would definitely rather have those assuming that oil flow from the top cam bolts is as good as oem and the strength is equivalent or better I see no reason not to get them. Plus the price is not bad at all

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Made some more (minimal) progress on breaking apart the old longblock. Got to my most favorite step of removing the cam sprockets. First one (exhaust on cyl 2/4) came off uneventfully. Wasn't so lucky on the other exhaust sprocket:

 

http://i.imgur.com/gKLuDCwm.jpg

 

Tried to see if I could find a friend with a welder to swing by, but eventually a sledge hammer, some WD40 and a 17mm socket later I was golden:

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/D7tBIiWm.jpg

 

Also really need new timing covers, so I have some more OEM Subaru parts to order now.

I feel your pain, was dealing with this yesterday but my trouble was on the driver side exhaust sprocket. Broke a 18” 3/8dr breaker bar, a 1/2-3/8 converter and the sprocket started to strip. Finally got it off with an 11/16 bolt extractor hammered on

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All I can tell you, is I’ve had a similar issue on the old truck I used to have and on my 05 LGT the culprit both times was the connection of the negative ground terminal. On my truck it was the ground wire connection to the body that needed to be tightened up and on my LGT it was the terminal connector itself. I replaced the terminal connector and haven’t had the problem since. Never had this issue with any fuses.

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Not knowing your existing set up, things I would put on the need/to be considered list are:

 

- Fuel pump (need for sure)

- Aftermarket Intercooler with silicone hose

- New turbo inlet (aftermatket would be preferred)

- VF52 wastegate will need to be ported

- 3 port EBCS (highly recommended)

- CAI

- DP and catless UP

- Headers

- Clutch

- Make sure brakes are top shape and able to handle the extra power

- Towing to the tuner

Ahhhh now I see what a EBCS is. I will definitely pick up a boost controller. I’ve also been wanting to invest in a Cobb accessport for awhile now and want to get one. Not being able to monitor things is becoming a pain, plus my knowledge was fairly limited to be able to really make use of what all the accessport would tell me. It’s a bit better now and I’d like to be able to map out a known “Good Tune” so I can keep an eye out for things getting screwy.

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Don’t “need” headers to run this set up stock manifolds are fine. Would advise against a CAI, you open yourself up to boost creep with these smaller IHI turbos when you run a CAI. Porting the wastegate might help, but a turbo of this size isn’t pushing enough air to optimize what the CAI is designed to do anyway. With a VF52 on larger injectors and a pump, bigger intercooler, stock intake and exhaust manifolds, you should make close to 300 HP to the wheels. Add headers, you’ll get a bump in peak TQ with a few more ponies as well.

Thanks for the suggestions!! I definitely would like to get headers when I can. The previous owner did install a short ram intake. Not sure if it’s negative or not. Info on the CAI is appreciated as I haven’t looked into them a whole lot myself yet, I’ll really need to do some research on air intake types to boost my knowledge so I know a bit better how it works in tandem with everything else I have and would like to do/plan to do in the future.

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Not knowing your existing set up, things I would put on the need/to be considered list are:

 

- Fuel pump (need for sure)

- Aftermarket Intercooler with silicone hose

- New turbo inlet (aftermatket would be preferred)

- VF52 wastegate will need to be ported

- 3 port EBCS (highly recommended)

- CAI

- DP and catless UP

- Headers

- Clutch

- Make sure brakes are top shape and able to handle the extra power

- Towing to the tuner

This is the first car I’ve modified so I’ve been doing bits and pieces here and there, usually as it becomes necessary, modding on a budget after all. Previous owners did a few mods that I don’t even think the guy that sold me the car realized. I took the turbo off and disassembled it this past Sunday and come to find out someone had already installed a vf52. So my plan now is to rebuild it. As far as I can tell it’s still running stock injectors.

As far as a mod list goes

-K&N Short Ram Intake (previous owner)

-Perrin Inlet Hose

-Cobb Catless Uppipe

-Invidia Highflow Catted Downpipe

-Grimmspeed adapter

-Magnaflow exhaust with just a resonator

-Cobb Short Throw Shifter(Previous Owner)

-Power Stop Z26 Cross-drilled and slotted rotors with carbon/ceramic pads.

-BC Racing BR Series Coilovers

I have a Competition Clutch Lightweight flywheel(13lbs), Stage 4 pressure plate, 6 puck ceramic clutch disc, and Versus Engineering Billet Clutch Fork and Pivot to put in but haven’t installed all this yet.

Figured I would need a new fuel pump. Any recommendations on what to look at?

Don’t know what a 3 port ECBS but I’ll look it up and do some research on it. Headers is something I was definitely already considering at some point but they are pricey. Also I’d like to go to a front mount intercooler eventually though I do like the top mount spool speed. There’s a machine shop about 10-15mins from me that primarily works on drag cars, emailed them earlier today to have them look at the turbo so I’ll ask them about porting the wastegate whenever I hear back from them. And is the Short Ram that’s on the car ok or should I go ahead and look at switching to a CAI? I haven’t seen that as a big need so haven’t really looked into the big differences between the 2. Also, thanks for all the helpful info. I really appreciate it!!

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In post #17 I can see some.

 

I'll have to see if I have them saved some where on a thumb drive.. from years back.

I looked. Keeps sending me to this thread

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https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/142-000-miles-oem-turbo-168561.html

 

You'll see pictures of my old vf40 there.

I didn’t see any pics in this thread, wrong link perhaps?

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No metal on the dipstick means absolutely nothing. If your turbo did indeed go out and its not just some related failure that killed the boost/whistled, then you need to check the oil, filter and the pan for metal before you go doing these mods. You don't have any proof yet that the motor hasn't been damaged.

I still feel the need to reiterate to you though that I didn’t say the engine was good for sure and in my OP stated that I just haven’t pulled the pan yet. The mods I’m looking at doing is just best case scenario that the engine is still good. It may not be once I have time to go deeper into it. In which case I’ll be handling that before this but still just trying to figure everything out as I will do these mods eventually regardless so just trying to get my ducks in a row so when I’m ready and able to pull the trigger on it I can.

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With the down pipe removed you can check shaft play before you unbolt it from the up pipe.

 

The first time doing this job is the hardest, the next time is much easier.

Yeah, I’ve found the first time doing anything is the hardest, I just take my time with it and learn what I need to learn so that the next time is much faster. I just haven’t had time with work to get deep into it yet. Tomorrow will be my first day off since Sunday.

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You need to see to check the turbo for shaft play. I got lucky years ago and had very little the wheel just began to touch the compressor housing.

Cool, I’ll pull the turbo tomorrow while checking the pan and everything else. I tried to look down in the intercooler flange to see what little I could without removing the intake manifold and it looked like the compressor was slightly misaligned. Granted, I’m no expert.

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No metal on the dipstick means absolutely nothing. If your turbo did indeed go out and its not just some related failure that killed the boost/whistled, then you need to check the oil, filter and the pan for metal before you go doing these mods. You don't have any proof yet that the motor hasn't been damaged.

Alrighty, I’ll go ahead and check all of that tomorrow!

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It is a little undertaking that has a lot to gain from. Congrats! And you did the retrofit. Are you happy with the output?

Thanks! I did do the retrofit, the output is fantastic. When I turn of the high beams since I have a bi xenon set up both the lows and the highs come on and it’s like driving during the day lol. The only downside I’ve had with the retrofit is with the rgb halos and demon eyes, the out put is good but when the halos are on you can’t really see the demon eyes. Other than that it’s fantastic.

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So this past Sunday a friend and I finished installing BC coilovers on my 05 LGT and then we went for a cruise and a mountain run. Half way up the mountain my turbo went out. We pulled over ASAP, the turbo had a bit of a wind chime like noise here and there. Checked the oil, it was a little low so we put more in, also there was no metal on the dipstick. We debated fully opening the wastegate to vent to atmosphere and not build boost but I ultimately decided to drive the car home 65-70 miles keeping it under 3000 rpms and out of boost. After 15-30 mins of driving the wind chime noise stopped. In 5 gear @ 60mph and around 2800 rpms I tried to give the car a little more throttle to see if it would attempt to go into boost, I had just been very lightly feathering the throttle to accelerate very slowly up to this point. It would not go into boost so I just continued with slowly accelerating like I had been doing. Got the car home. Next day I went to start the car to check how well it would start up. Started immediately and idled perfectly, so I turned it back of. Then I checked the dipstick again, oil level was at the low market but no metal on it. Pulled the intercooler and the intake hose, no metal or oil in those either. Have yet to pull the oil pan as I’ll be doing an oil change, rear main seal replacement, and clutch swap soon and I’ll check at that time. As far as I can tell the turbo is definitely cooked but the engine is fine. So the next plan is to swap out the vf40 with a vf52, also going to put on IAG tgv deletes and IAG side to top feed fuel rail conversion and planning to run ID1050x 1065cc injectors.. really the question is if there is anything special I should be aware of doing this swap and conversion more than plug n play and tune. Already have in mind I may need to upgrade the stock fuel pump. Any insight, links, info would be appreciated!

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Refer to this thread for pictures:

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/febreze-mees-2-5i-limited-wagon-build-thread-281185.html

 

Unfortunately, I don't have a build thread on them. I spent hours combing through threads on forums, google, and YouTube videos of other LGT's to figure out how to do it. So I do not have in-progress pictures.

 

An 80mm halo ring will do. And some 6-inch LED strips.

 

When mounting the rings and strips, just open up the housing, mock-up the rings and strips, mark your measurements, drill, mount, reseal.

 

I used a super small gauge wire to mount everything. I don't recall how small. I walked into a computer hardware store and asked for the smallest gauge wire. I didn't want to worry about JB Weld causing condensation, or falling apart after some time and seasons.

 

I wasn't the biggest fan at first, but they grew on me. Now I do really like them. And I get compliments from others anywhere I go, so others like them too yayy!

 

*It should be noted that the photos I have of mine, and any I've come across online, don't do the halos or strips justice. In some photos my headlights are outright scratched/dirty. My photos were not edited for light aperture or anything, so they appear bulky and blurry in some/most photos. They are actually quite crisp and it is hard for me to capture that through my phone.*

Thanks for the reply, my feed didn’t update a response to this for whatever reason, so I just noticed it. I ended up figuring it out. Got everything I needed just about from TRS since they’re only like 45mins away from me. Went with so Morimoto Mini-h1 projectors clear honeycomb etch lenses, Profile Prism demon eyes, 80mm profile prism RGB halos, Morimoto LED turn signals, Morimoto 2-stroke 5500k high beams, 6500k low beams. Painted the housings myself with gloss black paint removed the extra amber lensing on the blinkers and blacked out the chrome housing of the blinkers so the white leds wouldn’t be too bright. Took awhile to put it all together but I’m pretty happy with how they turned out. I ended up just using fishing line and gorilla glue to secure the halos [emoji23][emoji28]

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After about 20 mins of struggling with mainly the end wires the eyeglass screwdriver did the trick

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Thanks for the reply, I’ve gotten as far as pulling the white piece forward and thought those were little black clips back there. Been trying to go at it with what I have available without buying anything new so I’m using an eyeglasses screwdriver. And as far as I can tell the white piece does not come off all the way correct?

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