l88m22vette

My OEM is rotted and I need a cheap replacement, shipped or picked up is fine. I'm around Chicago, the trick is I need the Outback variant with the downturns, and want it stock or almost stock quiet.

 

Please PM, thanks!

No sir, I need a VF38/44 bellmouth which is apparently different. I actually bought one of these originally only to find out it doesn't work. Appreciate the thought though!

 

 

Yep, best way I found was a used HKS downpipe off Buyee.jp, it bolted right up to the stock catback with a donut.

Thanks, sounds good!

Is there any chance you would sell the back seat panel (with the net) off the passenger seat? I've been trying to find one and/or a part number for a long time and can't, so far the only solution is a JDM recycler with crazy international shipping costs.

 

 

 

If you want to sell it just PM me, thanks a lot!

Just to update, I got Dorman 524-595 and 596 control arms, these are aluminum replacement STi control arms with the revised 2011-14 sealed rear OEM pillowball bushings, and they also have new balljoints and front bushings. Troll a bit on Google Shopping, eBay, and some other sites, I got them for ~$208 shipped but they average ~$120 per side.

 

 

Nice work

I've been enjoying the EJ20Y swap but a few weeks ago it slipped and that's stuck on my mind, I got on it from about 10mph to merge over and it shuddered and went "hrrrrrrrrrrrrd," paused a half-sec and finally just took off. I'm hoping to pick up a cheap used one to build eventually, here is the 5EAT info I've collected:

 

 

5EAT rebuild: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jayrex-5eat-rebuild-251969.html

Rear diff fluid: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2024688&postcount=3

 

 

HexMods: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-valve-body-upgrades-finally-164484.html

HexMods 2: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/valve-body-mods-giant-leaps-forward-160101.html?highlight=hex+mods

TransGo impressions, good leads for research: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/transgo-kit-and-working-good-163856.html

 

 

Trans cooler DIY, HexMods: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/properly-plumb-your-5eat-transmission-cooler-221643.html

Note post #393 for possible alternate configuration: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/transmission-cooler-installation-17293p27.html

 

 

5EAT front LSD discussion: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1895421&page=4

HexMods experiments: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-front-lsd-fitment-test-fund-134603.html

Just got Teins for the Outback and am working on getting the other stuff I need for the project, I've been researching LCA bushings and was hoping for a little advice.

 

First, I'm using Tein Flex Z and plan to put them at the top of their ride height (independent adjustment from spring preload) with .75"F/1"R spacers, so I should end up at just above OEM LGT ride height, which means I should get to skip just about all the Legacy parts swapping I read about here since I'm not going low: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/info-ob-gt-suspension-geometry-removing-spacer-180579.html

 

I also know that the 2011-14 STi used upgraded spherical bearings, seen here, that should fit our front control arms; I emailed them to confirm OEM part number: https://www.fastwrx.com/collections/bushings-and-end-links/products/front-lower-control-arm-rear-bushings-2011-2014-sti

 

Plenty of people just buy a new set of Mevotechs to skip the bushing/press BS and because they are lighter aluminum, however when I searched Mevotech's part number RockAuto also showed an UltraPower set that look identical, except they are $30 cheaper per side. Does anyone know about UltraPower? The UltraPower description makes it sound like they are just rebranded Mevotechs...

 

UltraPower: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8445624&jsn=3

 

Mevotech: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6506949&jsn=4

Spec B is an upgrade over the regular and GT brakes, the calipers are better but allow the use of larger rotors (and the rears let you use vented instead of solid rear disc). I'd also invest in a Grimmspeed master cyl brace, I was skeptical but it really makes a huge difference.

Lots of little stuff could be different, I had to swap injector plugs since I installed topfeeds instead of the stock sidefeeds, and when you're talking about using Impreza parts on a Legacy it can get more complicated. I had looked into using a USDM ECU for the dual-AVCS but never went down that road, it *seems* like it could work as long as the wiring and immobilizer are handled, but that's beyond anything I did.

 

 

 

You can swap to static exhaust cam gears but you have to degree the cams, they have fully-retarded timing when the AVCS gears aren't active. The cams are all basically the same, its the variable timing itself that makes the difference.

I got an HKS downpipe used off of buyee.jp, it was perfect and bolted right to the stock exhaust. You'll have to looks for wiring coming off the front bottom corners of the engine on both sides, there is a cam sensor and oil control valve on each side (next to the exhasut cams)

I think in another thread someone got the USDM ECU working with the dual AVCS just by adding a few wires.

 

My EJ20Y swap, I did my best to cover every aspect, problem, and solution I encountered: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/416186-2005-xt-jdm-spec-b-swap-imported-front-clip-auto-manual-conversion-bolt-ons.html

 

The USDM ECU CANNOT run exhaust AVCS, you have to add wiring for the exhaust cam sensors and oil control valves, install the JDM ECU, and reprogram the immobilizer to make it all work.

 

edit: make sure to use the Photobucket extension for Firefox, Chrome, or whatever browser you're using

It won't pass unless you get the CELs turned off. The USDM ECU cannot run it since it was never designed for those connections (exhaust AVCS cam sensors and oil control valves). The engine will run on the USDM ECU, not that well, but it will, so as long as you turn off the CELs and put some miles on it after it should pass.

I just used the USDM harness and added the AVCS wiring, but I'm almost positive a JDM engine harness would work as long as you add the ECU jumper harness, use the Japanese ECU, and re-code the immobilizer. I've read a lot about swapping intake manifolds, sensors, etc., and I don't think any of that stuff matters (especially when swapping a pre-factlift engine into a pre-facelift chassis, or vice-versa). All I did was swap to the earlier 2-wire sensors and use the matching wiring since I had to get my 2008 engine working with my 2005 vehicle. It turns out that the earlier 2-wire sensors I swapped have a shield on pin 30 and need the ground wire to be bolted to the metal part of the intake manifold, I just used a bolt on my TGV deletes; I also fought with and finally got my Innovate LC-2 working. The car runs perfectly with no CELs and is fully-functional, and I've been logging it for Ed at XRT.

This will work, as long as your car is a pre-facelift (2005-07)

 

Pre-facelift: metal ECU housing

Post-facelift: plastic ECU housing

 

They are wired completely differently as well, you need to stick to the engine that came from the same version since they're plug-and-play (assuming you added wiring and reprogrammed the immo)

My swap and wiring are complete, dual AVCS works with no CEL and I'm going to be logging it over the next few weeks: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/416186-2005-xt-jdm-spec-b-swap-imported-front-clip-auto-manual-conversion-bolt-ons-11.html

Nice work, glad to hear!

 

One thing that I'm thinking of is the engine harness ground, can someone tell/show me where that should go? I know it is supposed to be hooked to a direct battery ground but it wouldn't reach, so instead I grounded it on the TMIC bracket, could that ruin my party?

Skeen, thanks, its been a weird combo of fun and head-bashing frustration! Swapping to a JDM ECU is as simple as getting the keys/immobilizer reprogrammed after its all plugged in. Tip: don't tell the locksmith its a foreign ECU, several places got scared and didn't want to try it unless I bought a new ECU at the dealer, good luck with that. I almost swapped IMMO chips but didn't want to ruin anything with soldering surgery, paying a guy $150 for the programming was definitely worth it. I also almost bought a Subaru SSM with the correct cartridge off eBay but dropping $600 didn't make sense. My harnesses came from iWire, Brain added the exhaust AVCS wiring to the main engine harness and also provided a jumper harness to go from the large engine bay plug to the ECU, I just needed to trace wires and insert the pins into the correct locations on the 134 and 135 ECU plugs.

 

mtnbikeman, I plan to go through the wiring before any major surgery, since I'm using the metal case ECU, have all the AVCS wiring added, and installed the 2-wire sensors (I needed to enlarge the bolt holes) it "should" work. I'll try to start it without the exhaust cam sensors since that worked before, and otherwise try to troubleshoot without undoing a lot of what's been done. Basically, I thought I could just swap some ECU maps to account for the hardware differences, but was told by Ed at XRT that its not that simple because of the ECU's logic. I don't doubt that, I'm just being stubborn to try to make this stuff work (like you mentioned) before I spend more money or do a bunch of wrenching.

You only need to take off the top plastic part of the manifold, that's much easier, you can even unbolt it and simply loosen some of the wiring and hoses to tilt it back (instead of totally disconnecting and taking it off). This should be a pretty small job, you'll need to take off the TMIC and maybe the turbo inlet, but otherwise keep it simple since you're only working on the clamp itself.

 

OR, throw some mods on while its apart

Here's my Outback swap (2008 JDM Spec-B EJ20Y) you will start to see me dealing with wiring and sensor issues around pg 8: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/416186-2005-xt-jdm-spec-b-swap-imported-front-clip-auto-manual-conversion-bolt-ons.html

 

I have a 2005 OBXT but bought a 2008 front clip, the problem is only Japan got an updated EJ20X/Y, both had the VF45 for the Japanese facelift instead of the VF38 or TD04HLA for the early EDM/JDM X and Y. The wiring changed quite a bit, I was stuck on the later 3-wire exhaust cam sensors since its not compatible with my 2005 EJ20X ECU, the pickups changed along with the sensors (3-point pickup to Hall sensor). Its weird swapping from 2 to 3-wire sensors worked for you, I tried to use early 2-wire sensors in my 2008 EJ20Y and the car won't start even though it did w/o the exhaust sensors plugged in. If I had gotten an early EJ20X/Y I would have been fine since its otherwise a pretty straight swap, you just need the JDM ECU, exhaust AVCS OCV and sensor wiring, a Legacy TS downpipe, and an IMMO reprogramming to get it running. It took weeks for me to find a proper post-facelift JDM factory wiring diagram but I did, I've attached them to this reply. To get things running properly I have to:

 

1) Get early EJ20XY or EJ205 cams (205 is an early quad-AVCS engine, basically my Y is a twin-scroll version) - most straightforward, should make everything work as intended

2) Swap my EJ255 exhaust cams in and use my single-AVCS OEM ECU

3) "Delete" AVCS with static exhaust cam gears and degree Exhaust AVCS Delete & Re-timing - Subaru Forester Owners Forum

...

4) Wire in my newer EJ20Y ECU, wiring would suck and I'd only know if it works after getting an engine harness wired for 3-wires sensors and installing it all, what a nightmare if that doesn't work

2007-9 JDM BP5D5CH EJ20X-Y factory service manual wiring (Japan facelift).pdf

2004-6 JDM BL5 BP5 EJ20X-Y factory service manual wiring.pdf

Here is a GR steering coupler compared to mine, the major difference is the lower spline clamp; the picture isn't the best, when the ends are lined up the lower mount side is obviously longer. I'm going to try to take apart the universal joint this week and swap ends, it *should* be simple...

 

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6088/6160339125_350e41bdf8_z.jpg

Just did this yesterday, thanks a ton sir!

This thread is relevant to my interests http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/416186-2005-xt-jdm-spec-b-swap-imported-front-clip-auto-manual-conversion-bolt-ons.html

 

I'm working on a 6mt swap into my 2005 5EAT XT and found it after searching for a good half-hour, its both helpful and frustrating because I'm right at the point of trying to prep for the manual install. I got a JDM Spec-B front clip and the engine and trans are ready, I wish I had known about the floor stamping before taking everything apart. Anyway, lengthening the mount isn't a big deal, I am worried about the electronics. I understand I have to ground the ECU pin to ID as manual and have the quoted info below. I know I read recently that someone figured out cruise control for an auto-to-manual swap, and it sounds like its a matter of the things mentioned above - am I missing anything from the thread? I have both auto and manual ECUs and the complete stuff from the front clip, though since its RHD I can't use as much as I'd like. Any thoughts aside from getting my crossmember modded?

 

Assuming mechanical stuff done....grounding one pin to identify MT, wiring clutch and neutral safety switch, wiring reverse switch, flash compatible manual rom. Doesn't really sound that hard.

 

OK, I know the mechanical stuff can be done but the only thing that really concerns me is the wiring. So here is what I have found...After comparing the 05 manual and 05 auto PCM diagrams and doing some searching on here:

 

Pin 34 on connector B134 identifies the vehicle as manual or auto. Rumor has it that this pin just needs to be grounded (or ungrounded) to switch between the two.

 

Pin 9 on connector B137 is the nuetral switch input. Only problem I see here is, according to Alldata, the manual is looking for 12 volts when in nuetral, and the auto is looking for 0 volts in nuetral, 12 volts the rest of the time. No idea whether this would work.

 

Clutch switch would need to be wired into pin 1 on connector B134

 

Backup lights look like they could be wired into the same spot at the OP connector

 

I can't find the vehicle speed sensor input so no idea on this one.

 

Also, I would really like to know if the body control modules are the same for manual and automatic cars.

 

There are 2 different ECU part numbers for manuals and autos so something has to be different between them. Just not sure what...

This thread is relevant to my interests, might as well do it when I pull the engine

Same problem for me, P0302 (specific code) and a P0420 (background code). New coilpack, swapped injectors, no change.

 

That said, this started to occur following a mild accident in December (~5mph), someone cut me off and I skidded on slush. The exhaust got a little louder and the stock manifold has a lot of rust so I'm going to check for an exhaust runner leak first, though I don't know if that'd cause the P0302. I don't want to just take it in and shell out tons of money since it could be a million things, but I also don't know where to start.