dsanford1029

Time to revive this thread...

 

So I thought I'd give the car some time to see if I would just get used to things but my current setup (tein springs and new 2010 stock shocks) just absolutely sucks. I can't imagine the springs being the main culprit, though I doubt they help any, but the bumps and potholes have to mainly be felt by the shocks/struts right?

 

I've gotten to the point that I continually recall everyone telling me that the 2013 struts were so much better but I decided against them because people also told me they are a little stiffer than the 2010's. Did I have the wrong idea about better in that they aren't necessarily stiffer but handle road hazards better? Regardless, I am pretty against the idea of just replacing the struts because of the amount of work I went through just getting the current setup in place.

 

WHAT I'M LOOKING FOR

I just want as close to the stock ride as I can get with the car being lowered and I'm starting to get the feeling that coilovers are the way to achieve this. I had coilovers on my last car and they were very cheap and turned to shit very quickly. Is my only option to drop over a grand on some BC's? Are there coilovers that have a good reputation without hitting $1000?

I just swapped out neo max silvers "coilovers " with koni/H&R springs on my wife's 2011 2.5i. I really like the performance feel of the coilovers but she works in NYC and the roads are garbage so the bumps were extremely harsh.

The new setup isn't as tight and the ride is way more comfortable.

I still have the coilovers and will sell them at a good price but any coilovers you go with will probably have the same outcome "harsh ride quality ".

 

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Where did you buy the Group N strut mount from? I wonder if it was Chinese knock off.

I bought the rear strut mounts "forester " directly from Subaru and I checked where I bought the fronts and I actually bought them from Amazon. They look the same but obviously not.

Car drives amazing now finally.

 

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So the dealership has had the car for one week. They installed everything and did the alignment. I went to pick it up and pulled out onto the main road . Immediately the car began pulling hard to the right.

I brought it back to the dealership and the service rep said they would fix the problem.

The service rep called me several hours later and stated they found the problem. It was a damaged passenger front strut mount. I couldn't believe it because it was brand new, I ordered the sti group-N B0310FE000 front mounts when I built the koni/H&R setup.

He sent me a picture just to show me the damage and I couldn't believe the bearing separated so fast.

They are going to replace it with a oem one that they had in stock for the legacy. This whole strut building suspension replacing plus getting the wheel alignment done has been an absolute nightmare.

 

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Thanks for your input. Local shops around me say they can't handle the inner tie rods so I have to bring it into the dealership. Every single shop was crying about a special Subaru tool needed for the inner tie rods.

I have already replaced the strut mounts with the upgraded ones from sti and the rears from a forester I believe. I had the whiteline rear lca installed and one shop said it was installed wrong so I jacked the rear to check it out. I found it installed properly so I guess these alignment shops are not familiar with adjustable aftermarket suspension parts I guess.

Anyway I am going to get a price for a front and rear refresh. Hopefully it won't cost thousands.

My wife and I really enjoy this car and she says she will never let it go so I am going to be spending some money to keep her going.

 

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I recently built koni/h&r struts for my wife's 2011 2.5i. I had a shop install them along with a set of whiteline rca.

I also had the shop replace the front bearings. I brought the car in for a alignment and was turned away due to the inner and outer tie rod is shot so it can't be adjusted.

I am having the tie rod replaced.

Is there anything else I should consider replacing?

The car just hit 100k and all suspension components look ruff.

 

 

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Yeah I have decided to tackle it myself. The dealership is absolutely nuts if they want someone to pay that amount for that work.

I guess I will do a coolant flush while I'm at. Replacing all the hoses is a great idea as well.

 

Thanks for all of your input on this it is much appreciated [emoji106].

 

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That is crazy that they would not replace the idlers, I ended up doing it myself after the dealer quoted me some insane number. I did not do the water pump and thermostat, though. My understanding is that Subaru water pumps rarely fail and if it ain't broke don't fix it

 

 

 

I used the Continental kit and GMB tensioner, ended-up getting quite the shock when I pulled the timing belt covers off and found tons of rubber shavings. All of the small guides on the inner cover corners were digging into the existing timing belt. Readjusted all of them using the spacer tool provided for reinstallation of the main timing belt guide.

 

 

 

I really think this is a reasonable DIY job if you have a few evenings to work on it. I did not need to remove the radiator, only the fans, and the hardest part was dealing with all of the rusty bolts.

I can't see not removing the radiator to accomplish this job. But what you said has peaked my interest. If I can avoid removing the radiator then saves a ton of time.

 

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$1400 seems like a lot for 2.5i. I would think it would 800-900 range for a dealership to do a 2.5i timing with Subaru parts. (I am just a DIYer though) My dealer advertised $400 timing belt (just the belt) for 2.5i.

 

When I was in for warranty repair, the dealer proactively gave me $1500 quote. The Turbo models are more difficult because you have to remove downpipe or exhaust manifold/turbo assemble to access the all water pump bolts. The charge pipe, air intake pipes, hoses make for a more difficult timing belt job as well.

I can do it myself but I don't have a garage and we park the car on the street with alternate side parking rules so it's not doable that way. My wife wants it taken care of so I am stuck Bringing it to the dealership.

On a brighter note I am in the process of building koni/H&R spring setup with the sti group n front strut mounts and forester rear strut mounts. I am almost finished and I can definitely swap out that on the street.

I think 1400 is a bit high. I can buy the whole kit for I think 275 from rock auto. The idler pulley should be included for that price. I guess I will call the dealership to get more details.

 

 

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My wife's 2011 2.5i is almost to 100k and I called the dealership where she bought it from to get a quote on the water pump and timing belt replacement. They quoted me 1400$. Is that too much?

 

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I'm looking for 300 to over 300HP once the vehicle can handle it.

The g25-550 is a great turbo and the numbers you are aiming for definitely work with that turbo in fact efficiency is dead on around 31lbs per minute. Just keep in mind that your low end power would suffer a bit. It is a expensive turbo and on other platforms it is making great power.

 

 

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I run hks racing ir plugs in my Hyundai. I constantly pull them and check the gaps. I use feeler blades. I run somewhat high boost so I make it a rule just to check them every 6 months. I also change the gap whenever I replace them . If the gap is too wide all you have to do is tap them on a hard surface to close it. I use a gap tool to adjust by pulling if needed. I've been doing it for so long its really not a big deal. If you

Are only buying spark plugs and installing them without checking to make sure they are gapped properly then you are missing a step in your troubleshooting steps. It will hesitate when you get to WOT by blowing out the spark completely due to the gap being too wide.

 

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What are your power goals?

 

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I have 2010 with 74k on it. It was stage 1 93 now back to stock.

 

I just replaced my plugs with stock NGK and everything went as planned. Started it up with a misfire and found a cracked insulator. This threw a misfire code and I replaced the plug.

 

 

 

Everything is in working order now with no codes. It drives noticeably better than before the plugs except for wide open throttle. It has a hesitation in 2nd gear and higher on/off from 4k to redline. I had stage 1 on it and the hesitation was much more severe. It is still present at stock but less severe.

 

 

This was not present before replacing the plugs. I don't see evidence of misfires on the datalog and no further codes. I have only noticed it at WOT. Thank you for any help.

Did you check the gap?

I have a car with a 2.0 turbo and I run hks plugs. I have to check the spark plug gap every six months due to I'm running 20psi on a aftermarket larger turbo. I also check the spark plug gap when I buy new plugs. If the gap is too wide you will get hesitation. Just my 2 cents.

 

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I installed "Silvers Neomax " coilovers on my wife's 2011 legacy yesterday.

It took all day to do it especially when I hit the rears. The shock bolts didn't want to break for me. I was debating not to get coilovers but there are no options shock/strut wise for our cars. I really don't believe in modifying donors to make shit work.

One installed I drove around for a bit and it feels 100% better than the kyb/eibach's that I installed 30k miles ago. The kyb's just gave out too soon and were uncomfortable from the beginning.

I guess I will let the coilovers settle for a week and adjust ride hight and stiffness plus get a alignment.

 

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Hey there,

 

I just had this issue happen to me, however the CEL, Brake, cruise control and traction control lights would flash if I would idle for > 3 mins. After a few restarts the light would go away, but come back If i would idle again, but never after driving.

 

Turns out it was a crack in the exhaust header, near the upstream 02 sensor.

Bought the part, and went to a custom exhaust shop to put it on. I replace the o2 sensors as well since i bought the car at 79K and now have 110K.

 

now its running fine with no lights.

Did you scan your codes that came in?

I did before I brought it to the dealership.

 

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bout 5 hrs north of north jersey.... I'm from Morris county tho.

Oh ok...Hudson county here.

 

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is it not 9000 degrees down there right now?

That day was low humidity and high in the low 80's.

Down there? Jersey? You must be from way up?

 

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Interesting that the dealership initially claimed to not know of any warranty extension, how convenient for them...

Yeah they said that when I first brought the car in. I did bring it up to them obviously. To be honest with you once they looked into the issue the service department did a 180° attitude change. I'm pleased with the outcome. I think it helps to understand what could possibly be the issue when taking your car to the dealership. In the end the dealership gets paid.

 

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Awesome weather to dive into a little DIY

 

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Fixed. Warranty repair. New valve body.

 

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I understand your frustration. However, Subaru of America (SOA) acknowledged a problem with the CVTs and provided an extended warranty. Honda did the same for their automatic transmissions in the early 2000s, my wife’s Accord had the tranny replaced twice under warranty in the first 80k miles.

 

Call SOA (1-800-782-2783) if the dealer gives you any problems or find a better dealer. SOA will also provide goodwill assistance towards unreasonable mechanical failures if you ask nicely.

 

https://www.subaru.com/customer-support.html

Yeah first the dealership said the fluid was bad so they would go ahead and change it plus perform a relearn on the transmission to see if it corrects the issue. Obviously it didn't. Now the Dealership is saying they are going to contact Subaru on Monday to inquire about the valve body repair. So hopefully everything goes well with that.

 

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Here is a link to the CVT warranty extension letter:

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5652552&postcount=445

I never received this letter. The car is at the dealership now getting checked and the dealership confirmed no warranty on the car and doesn't know of any extended warranty for this problem. I'm so freaking glad I have a second car so my wife can have a car to drive to work. I will never buy a Subaru ever again. I know I will have a huge headache dealing with this.

 

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My wife was driving home this evening in our 2011 2.5i and after she began driving lights began to flash on the dash which were brake lights, AT temp light, traction control light steady on and check engine light steady on. She drove the car home fine which is a 30 mile trip.

I scanned the codes and read P2762 and P0700.

It seems as it has something to do with the TCU or converter pressure solenoid circuit.

Has anyone had this happen to them?

The car is at 85k. No warranty left.

 

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I got the rce blacks with the bilstein shocks. Very comfy, just the right amount of bounce. Not to low and I don't have to worry about ruining my bumper upon parking.

Just a Damn shame you won't be able to replace those bilsteins unless you bought spares in advance.

 

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No harshness. Ride is almost stock like but firmer in a good way. I'm happy I didn't go any lower. Gives it an almost OEM sport look.

Sounds about right with that setup. You say you are running on 13-14 kyb's but they only seem to sell 10-12 for a complete set. If you got the 13-14 rears do you know if they are stiffer than the 10-12's?

 

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