Beerguy419

My advice, since I went through this on my 2013 (and ended up getting a replacement short block under that lawsuit letter)

When the dealership does the oil change for the oil consumption test, walk out to your car, pop the hood and check the oil level yourself on the stick. (make sure the car has been sitting for a few mins, and is parked on a level surface, etc)

VERIFY FOR YOURSELF that the oil level is 100% even on the top F mark, and NOT OVERFILLED.

 

The dealership that I went to for this oil consumption test OVERFILLED the oil like an extra 1/2 a quart or more. Like almost a 1/2" over on the stick! And they did this TWICE - I caught them both times and the Service Manager made them drain it and HE checked it with me.

 

You would think that the dealership would WANT the short block replacement warranty work...

 

Either the guy changing and filling the oil was simply told to do an oil change (and he normally overfilled every car) because of many cars burning a little, and the dealership doesn't want to deal with complaints from customers, or they are just idiots.

 

So again, my advice is, in addition to having the dealership monitor the oil consumption, YOU should also be accurately and regularly doing the same.

 

 

For any more advice/questions on this, please let me know[/quote

 

 

The dealership I went to for my 2013 consumption test did the same thing and overfilled the oil by a 1/2 quart as well. I did 3 consumption tests and they all passed. That was when the car had 20k miles on it. The light has been coming on ever since, around every 3,500 or 4,000 miles. I just add a quart to get me to 6,000 miles and do an oil change. The car has over 105,000 miles on it now.

I would wet sand it if you know how to do it properly, and fill in whatever void you may have with the dealership touch up paint. Just like Failbot said. It will probably need some buffing and then a nice coat of wax. Otherwise go to a reputable body shop and have them do it. They are going to have to paint a much larger area to get it to blend properly though.

I use the highest percent rubbing alcohol for pine sap. You have to rub easily or leave some on there for a bit and make sure the towel/applicator is soaked good. The harder you rub the more chances for scratches especially on a dark color car. The sap and bird shite will "lift" the clear if left on there too long or in the sun baking and leave the residue outline.

Had mine replaced with the same issue at 20k miles.

So what's the easiest way to do this install with the car on the ground? What do you mean the suspension needs to be loaded? Am I supposed to jack the differential up? Parts department is also telling me the Crosstrek sway bar physically won't fit.

When it rains out it sounds like it's coming down in my car around the B pillar like no other vehicle I have had before. Wind noise is noticeable, I have just learned to live with it. Honestly, the rain is more annoying and louder than the wind.

Thanks for the reply.

Quick question for you guys. I picked up my winter tire and wheel package today. I know the idiot light for the TPMS sensors are going to stay lit with the snow tire package. My question is do I have to reprogram or train the original stock wheels when I switch back? Thanks.

Looking for some help. I am planning on putting on a snow tire and wheel package together for my Limited. I want to replace stock 18's with a set of 17's and keep specs as close to stock as possible without affecting speedometer or anything else. What tire size and more specifically wheel size can I get without much of any impact? I was thinking 225/55/17's for tires. Wheels I was thinking 17x7.5 with a 45 offset? I am not sure how critical offset is.