Mrstacy

Is yours the rare indigo blue color. if so, it is ultra-rare.

^^^ how is it compared to you know

Your answer implies you reinstalled your milk jug. If so, what was the reasoning.

^^^ For the milk jug delete, did you do a tune afterwards? Some are saying that they get CEL (Check engine lights) after doing it,. maybe it is just the turbo models.

Did this today and "Yes" the seats are better (couldn't be worse right?). I did get stuck at step one though. The "Uncover the bottom flap" part. I ended up cutting the strap securing it to the bottom. For those not having done this yet, it is one long piece connected, so it may be just put over a support wire under the seat. I couldn't feel how it was connected, so I ended up cutting it. When I put it back, I made a knot with the two loose ends.

^^^ welcome aboard js. Let the games begin!!!

I can see this for the track, but since they are right-hand drive. that'd be confusing. to pass someone safely on a 2-lane road, you'd have to have a long neck!!

^^^ build project says it is a custom fabrication. cost big bucks he said

GTeaser I'm not on the list is this punishment for getting my color wrong. remember I am color blind. 1004410 -- Mrstacy ---------- GGM ---- ??/?? ---- 01/14/16 ---- LV,NV ---- Stage 2

^^^ Like that Regal Blue. Allows one to have a rare color without going to yellow, green or orange.

I noticed that Mercedes Benz has cars with a bade about 2x the normal size. I wonder is Subaru will follow that pattern?

that is neat. what cars do they put the body on? possibilities are endless I suppose.

at first I thought those were fog lights on the grill. that is a santa claus (I think) can't make out the thing on the passenger side.

A Subie in the snow sounds like fun. too bad it is a rare event here.

Pic of the legacy taking in some Fall sunshine

Good choice, but is it offered in a manual? I'm hoping ford would put RS technology in a larger, more luxurious vehicle. Also, like the Chevy SS

You may need to consider getting the AVO downpipe before you install this or you'll get codes galore catalytic efficiency or get a muffler shop to install one at the resonator. A tuner can tune out the code and a mechanic can add someting to remove the code too. But, it will stink quite a bit without a catalytic converter.

That looks great. it is nice to have a forum to help out on exactly what you need and the poor guys at the front of the forum being the guinea pigs.

No 5th LGT Generation Support. Totally not fair.

Thanks. I'll try that next time I have time to tinker a bit.

Finally got the time, courage and tools to get this done. It took me an absurd amount of time mostly because I was going to replace the PCV valve, but after pulling a few hose clamps, I couldn't find it. Then on the CDV. The TMIC came off quickly enough (already gone for PCV valve hunt). Put some rags in the driver foot well and put a strap on the clutch peddle as many have suggested so brake fluid didn't squirt everywhere. Then I used a vacuum brake bleeder to get most of the fluid in the line out. It worked well if the goal was to prevent it from squirting in the foot well, but not good if you don't know what to do once the fluid is in the jar and you want to put it back!! Anyway. I ran into an immediate problem in that I didn't have a deep 12mm socket. More time lost looking for an extension, but luckily I found one. A short socket can't clear some of the hardware in front of it. Then the hardest part was the clutch lines in the footwell. You only have one hand and are at an awkward angle. The light wrench feels like a 50 lb. weight after 2 turns and having to turn it and reposition the wrench for the next turn. If there is a ratcheting one of these, I would suggest it. The lower clutch line comes off relatively easy in comparison to that top one. The instructions are correct to note the angle of the line on the clutch damper. When I put the damper in the vise to loosen the remaining line, I was careful to situate it, so I could remember how the line was supposed to go. I even hand tightened it on the union and took it to the car for a test fitting. (also because I couldn't remember what side the removed gusset was supposed to go on) I then put the union back in place, but I didn't tighten it since I might need to adjust the lines connections. The line connections went back in pretty easily. Luckily, I was able to hand tighten the lines so I could be sure that I wasn't cross threading. All done, right? Wrong, not if you don't know how to get that fluid back in the clutch line. So, I wasted more time trying to find a YouTube on how to do this. I used this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UmyCoG7Lms So at this point, I just disconnect the vacuum brake bleeder and dump the old brake fluid. I then filled the slave reservoir with some new fluid (DOT 4 as suggested here) and call my 12 year-old son in for reinforcements. Ok, see that pedal on the floor, lift it up when I say and put it down when I say. like simon says. We do this 6 or 7 times and I turn the bleeder valve when the video says to. After a while, he complains, he can't push it down, so I think it is working. Also, I'm having to add fluid to the slave cylinder. I let him go back to watching TV and I check the clutch and it seems just as before! I put the TMIC back on and turn the car on to check for any CELS (thinking I left a hose loose while on my PCV Valve hunt), but all was good. It is about 10pm, now, but I have to take it for a spin, right? So, back it out. First thing you notice is that, you feel the vibration of motor under your left foot. The vibration seems to correspond with the exhaust, so if you have muffler delete, you'll get a real good foot tickle for sure. Once on the street, I put it in 1st and as others have said, you can feel the grip of the clutch. I was expecting to have to re-learn how to drive the car, but it was the same as before but only more feel. I didn't have to change my left foot power or range at all. The 1 to 2 Shift felt equally good with no guessing as to when to let the clutch go. You felt the engagement. Thanks to the gentleman writing the initial instructions (OP?) and all of you that left tips. Hell has frozen over because if I can DIY this one, then most anyone can.

You mention the OBX TBE. Remember the downpipe is catless, so make sure you can pass emissions and you will need a tune to remove the codes. The AVO does have a cat, so it may not suffer the same codes, but I was told that the cat in the downpipe is not as efficient. I put a cat on the resonator nearest the motor. Still got a code yesterday, but exhaust doesn't stink. You could by the OBX and get an AVO catted downpipe and sell you uncatted OBX downpipe

thanks but I didn't mention I have a recent grimmspeed tmic that came with a new hose, but this is good info.

^^^ I can test any diy time estimate trust me. 2 days in case I get frustrated or need a tool and store is xlosed. 2 cars to drive to store. This is in driver area below peddle right. But for access to reservoir tmic need removed?

Dealer won't do this job. I might attempt when I have a couple of days, a backup car and the proper tools.