Windza

Love this look mate... very clean lines and beautifully matched rims. The way you've got this looking, I'm *almost* swung around to liking the bonnet without a scoop... I've always liked the low profile scoop on my GT (Subaru really did a nice job) but dang mate, it's a toss up when I see that profile shot of yours! Either way, you're speaking my language! Gotta ask though, what's with front bumper? Is that just a stock bumper with a colour coded lip spoiler? Looks good!

My first Suby, bought it completely stock ~6 months ago. A bit of research turned up it was purchased new by a forum member (LegacyXP) back in 2008 through 2010. Absolutely love the car, especially in Northern winters, but deduct points for reliability concerns and 5EAT. I'm sure the 6MT is dang near perfect if only I trusted my wife in a stick. Current Set-up: Rebuilt engine with a few mild hop-ups 19x9.5" +45mm 5 Axis Design Rims (5AD) S5:F (custom powder coat in Stealth Charcoal/Clear Vision) 235/35R19 Nankang NS-2 (naysayers of this size/stretch can bugger off, fitment is tire manufacturer approved ) Swift Springs (4F007 intended for wagon) Koni Adjustables F&R Hogzaust!!! (and proud of it - it's good for a laugh but the end result couldn't be better - glad I happened across it before blowing $$$ on aftermarket) HID's Factory Nav Replacement with Nexus 7 Future Mods: Tune in some moah hosspowoah when I'm >4000mi on the engine Grill Alteration (not sure yet) Headlight Alterations (eyelids, orange removal) Taillight Tint and brighter bulbs *Maybe* a front spoiler lip (haven't found anything that's not gaudy yet). Dual Wall S/S Tips Liberty GT Rear Bumper Inserts (replace Legacy reflectors) Removal of all badges (gotta have those clean lines) Rims are a very tight fit and required the fenders be rolled (no significant flare requied). Only scrubbing I have is the tire on the rear plastics on bigger bumps - nothing I can't fix with a heat gun. The scrubbing only happens because I chose to run a 3mm spacer on the rears due to very little clearance (~0.5mm) between the forward control arm and rim. I did run it without the spacers for ~100mi and never had contact but I drove very conservatively as I'm pretty sure it would've contacted under hard cornering or hard acceleration through bumps. Couldn't be happier with this ride height from the Swifts... not ridiculously low but not ugly high either. Wagon springs are definitely recommended - I'm absolutely certain it would sag too much in the rear if I went with the 4F008's that Swift actually recommend for the sedan. These shots were taken with a full tank of gas, two (empty) kids seats in the back and an empty boot. With the kids in, full gas tank and a few suitcases in the boot, it squats a little but definitely not bad. Coupled with the Koni's the handling improvement was much improved from stock. In stock form, the car felt very twitchy and light up front and vague and wallowy in the rear, particularly through sweeping corners. The front now feels much more planted and while the wallowy feeling through the rear still exists, it's reduced and far less disconcerting than it was stock. Beefier swaybars and a roll center kit seem to be popular upgrades but I need to do some more research to make sure those mods will help. The ride is obviously firmer but on stock 17" rims I actually preferred it over the standard suspension (wasn't a fan of the floaty ride). With the 19" rims, it's a still surprisingly supple but definitely a little on the coarse side... a trade off I'm willing to take for how nice the rims look. Got to fix those orange indicators in the headlights and tame down the red in the tails!

Yeah, I only wish I knew who the"pros" were in my area - most everyone I've seen here in Western NY aren't interested in doing the job properly... get it on the rack and bump the wheel until "it's in the green". That said, I had a brain fart - I've only ever had RWD vehicles with live axles so toe-in to compensate for drag and braking on the front makes sense... I was overlooking FWD and AWD adding an acceleration force through the front tires that would tend to cause toe-in so when you consider you have forces both ways on FWD and AWD, it makes sense to make toe 0.00. Glad I got that figured out before I asked the shop to do something different. Still be interest to know how AWD track cars are setup... braking forces are generally a lot higher than acceleration forces on any vehicle so a slight toe-in setting might still be called for... guess I then comes down to how long you spend on throttle vs. brake (and coasting if you're a bit on the tame side).

So I searched this thread for any comment about the OP's recommended toe settings (i.e. "0.000" across the board) and didn't find any objections or recommendations against this which made me very curious. I was raised and taught that ideal set-ups for both DD's and track cars should run varying degrees of toe-in to compensate for operational forces that naturally tend to force the wheel assembly backwards toward a toe-out position (which is bad m'kay). The logic provided always seemed sound; there are a multitude of forces while driving/racing that will try to rotate our wheel assemblies into toe-out positions (i.e. rolling resistance, bearing drag, and the big one; brake load) so I had a hard time swallowing the pill in this thread that said toe set to 0 worked for the OP. Setting toe to 0 would suggest to me that the minute we put our cars to work on the roads/tracks, the wheels are pushed into a less than ideal toe-out position and would only serve to destroy tires and causing relatively poor handling? I'm a qualified Mech. Eng. but that does nothing more than confirm I had a partial frontal lobe lobotomy during college, so I'm asking this question with sincerity to a forum of experienced Suby owners in the hope of receiving a collectively qualified answer; Is setting toe to 0 a widely accepted recommendation or bollocks? My reason for asking; I'm about to significantly increase my rim offset and tire size and was going to request my alignment center to increase toe-in ~5% over the factory spec to compensate... this thread caused me some doubt. I'm very interested to know what you Auto-X and track guys have to say on this - I'd be extremely surprised to learn if any of you do actually set toe at 0.

So I removed the 2 innermost vertical fins for clearance and notched a few horizontal fins and a section of linkage. I retain full movement/use of the vents with the exception of horizontal direction on the RH vent which is restricted to ~1/4” movement. Considering I haven't been a passenger in any of my vehicles for years, I'm OK with that ;-) In terms of audio, I went with the Behringer UCA202 DAC because it seems most everyone has had success with it... I did have some background static/noise that was completely eliminated by this device; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0171PQLB8/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I was very impressed with the difference it made - night and day. If I crank the volume while nothing is playing you might pick up some faint noise while things are powering up but otherwise its perfect for my needs.

Here are some pics of the results (the gray border is deactivated screen area and is barely noticable - the photos make it standout). Seems you can just use adb shell wm overscan X, X, X, X without setting resolution. I ended up using adb shell wm overscan 130, 5, 5, 5 Absolutely stoked that this works so well! Ideally I'd love to have the JDM bezel but this saves me $200+ and I'm not about to lose any sleep over the loss of screen real estate.

Just an FYI for anyone using the USDM nav bezel style - if you've already done the install, you know the bottom ~125 screen pixels get covered by the lower trim and you lose the native Android navigation bar (unless you're willing to do more dremelling and trim work). I've seen where others configured gestures or navigation bar mods to workaround this but I tried various options in this vein and while you can restore some functionality, there is still some compromise and for the most part it felt half-assed to me. I figured there had to be a way to tell Android not to use those pixels and it turns out there is. If you've already gone through the motions of installing Timur on your Nexus, the fix is a walk in the park. Simply open up your command window, connect to your device and run the following ADB commands; adb shell wm size 1075x1920 adb shell overscan 125,0,0,0 Basically we've just told Android that it only has 1075 of the 1200 pixels available to work with and that those pixels are offset by 125 from the bottom edge (which is actually the left edge of the Nexus). I've only been using this for an hour or so at time of writing but it appears setting Android up like this means everything runs natively at that resolution so there is no compromise with scroll bars going off screen, aspect ratios etc. An added bonus is that the change persists after reboot as well, so no messing with a boot script or Tasker to make it stick! WIN! Depending on your own install, those numbers can be tweaked to whatever you want to get the alignment perfect or even put a small 5 pixel border around the perimeter to help with swiping in from the edge of the screen (for things like notification drop down). Also, if you happen to mess something up, you can reset things back very easily with adb shell wm size reset adb shell wm overscan reset Now I'll just wait for someone to tell me that this was mentioned in a previous post that I missed :-)

Hey sorry mate... got busy and haven't been hanging around the forums too much. Unfortunately I won't be getting any close-ups of the rear anytime soon... the assembly is installed and doesn't like coming out! Thankfully I've only had to pull it once after full install but I was on eggshells the entire time! If I end up having to pull it again, I'll make sure to take some pics and post them up. Truth be told though, I'm not sure how much help they'd be because I think every install is going to be different depending on what you have available and what you like to work with... My preference was hot glue because it's so easy to work with but it also comes with challenges ensuring you get a solid bond. Just be prepared to do a lot of dremel work on everything... a scalpel or sharp knife helps with final trimming too. You'll need to cut ducts, bezel and even the horizontal vent fins if you want the screen to sit flush against the bezel. Also, before I started mounting the tablet, I started having issues with the touchscreen - I was able to fix that but it did make me decide it'd be better to hard mount a Nexus 7 shell case rather than the device itself. That way, I can simply pop the old out and new in if something ever goes wrong in the future (broken screen, hardware failure etc.). I ordered [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EE1G6VI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00]this shell case[/ame] for $7 (I have Prime) and cut the front cover off - it's a nice tight fit and secured in place very well. I do have peace of mind knowing I can put new tablet perfectly in place inside 30 seconds (that exclude the 45mins it'd probably take to get the assembly out of the car!). In terms of the USB cord, I already had a 90 degree OTG adapter that I used - I didn't relocate the port or anything, just removed a vertical vent fin and called it a day... unless you knew to look, you wouldn't notice.