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x1conroe

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Posts posted by x1conroe

  1. That sounds like it might be a very small internal head gasket leak. Only Might be. Its an expensive guess. DO NOT shoot the parts cannon at it. Buy/Or have the shop pressure test the cooling system with UV dye in it.

     

    Natural expansion of the coolant will make the overflow bottle 'fill' as the car heats up. I'm assuming you are talking about coolant actually spilling out of the overflow bottle. If you are just talking about the level in the bottle going up and down with no coolant loss....there is nothing wrong with the car. That is 100% normal

     

    Pump up the system up on a COLD motor to 18 or so psi with the dye in it and leave it.

     

    If it loses more than 1 psi over an hour, look for the leak with a UV light.

     

    If you don't see it external, pull the plugs and look internal. Make sure you check the heater core and it's connections.

     

    You'll find it. The coolant is going somewhere

     

    Heres a video gives you the idea. The UV dye helps you find really small leaks. Hope that helps.

     

     

     

    It does spill out of the overflow bottle, thus loosing coolant. It'll go back down when it has been sitting but I'll have to top off anything i've lost. Many thanks for the info!

  2. Hi Guys,

     

     

    Car: 2013 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium with 94k miles.

     

     

    I have a problem with the coolant overflowing to the reservoir on long drives. 1-2 hour drives will do it. I have not had any signs of overheating (no light, checked my OB2II reader in realtime with a phone app.) The coolant does seem to flow back down once it does sit overnight or so. All signs kinda point to a head gasket, I know.

     

     

     

    I have ran a combustion tester, BT-500 from Amazon. Came back negative and I used basically all of the liquid. I have replaced the rad cap and the issue still persist.

     

     

    I have taken it to a shop that specialized in Subaru. They also ran the combustion test it came back negative and they replaced the rad cap. They suggested I replace the thermostat and serpentine belt (i was at 90k at the time). So I replaced that, replaced the coolant and even added the coolant conditioner. Same results. They then said the next step is to replace the head gaskets. I agreed to and and a few days before my appointment they realized that my car was a chain driven CVT and not a belt driven CVT. They do not have the tools for it and it was irregular to see a head gasket problem on that car. They then sent me to the local Subaru dealership.

     

     

    Here's the reply from the dealership: "So I talked to them about it, your particular car can be hard to diagnose head gaskets. It is not uncommon for them to pass hydrocarbon tests, which your's has, and there are no other signs showing up. We listened for the gurgling noise from the dash area when hot but did not hear it. Have you tried listening for that after a long trip? We also checked the oil and coolant for signs of intermixing but didn't see it. So it is hard to say because we have not confirmed it, but head gaskets would be the direction we are leaning. I asked about doing the radiator & water pump, the tech said if it was his car he probably wouldn't spend the money on those things because he doesn't think they are the problem, but again hard to say. The only sure way to know about the head gaskets would be to start disassembling the motor, or wait and see if more symptoms start coming up in the future. Let me know if we can help with anything."

     

     

    Would it be worth replacing the radiator and water pump or do all signs definitely point to head gaskets? Could it be a cracked head?

     

     

    Thanks for any input and i hope this has enough detail

  3. So my DNA Auto headlights arrived today and apparently they read the reviews/comments on amazon because the advice I'd received here as well as the mentioned online mega mall was false. The H1 LED bulbs I bought for these did not fit. The H7 bulbs I had, however, did. Anyway, they get mounted on the car tomorrow. I'll post pics of the bulb issues in this post and hopefully a success story tomorrow after the bumper has been reapplied...

     

    dHEYJMd.jpg

     

    the two prongs above wouldnt allow the bulb to sit flush below

     

    hywtxQL.jpg

     

    NOUd2RI.jpg

     

    not sure if others' lights have this marking surrounding the bulb housing.

     

     

    What the hell? Mine had an H7 stamp on mine as well, but it was definitely an H1 fitment.

     

     

    nzNZNP9.jpg

     

     

    jhqR0yh.jpg

  4. I recently had this same problem. I bought a new radiator cap and that tester linked above. Fortunately I not have a leak. However, I still added the OEM coolant conditioner and topped off the coolant. I'll be keeping an eye on the cooling system over the next few weeks.

     

     

     

    https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-OEM-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00WFI0W2Q/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_4?crid=1OLNYD15MKLME&keywords=subaru+coolant+additive&qid=1552941173&s=gateway&sprefix=subaru+coolant+additive%2Caps%2C238&sr=8-4-fkmrnull

  5. So my headlights are yellowing on my '10 and after the yearly sanding and buffing I had to do on my last car to keep the housings clear, I've decided to just replace the assembly's due to wayyyyy more affordable pricing than my last car (mazdaspeed 6).

     

    The problem I'm running into is there are a large amount of options, though most just look like rebranded versions of each other. I'm not interested in the $600 ones that theres a thread about that apparently have a fitment issue. I'm finding on amazon Acanii, DNA motoring, and CarLights360. On CarID I'm seeing spyder and lumen.

     

    Anyone have anything good or bad to say about any of these brands? I see they all change the style bulb from H1 to H7 or vice versa. Does this type of bulb last longer than the 7 months the stock bulbs tend to run? Fitment issues? I believe I remember people saying that 2012+ assemblies will fit my 2010 despite cosmetic differences? Whatever you've got to say on the subject, I'm all ears.

     

     

     

     

    I just bought the DNA motoring ones on eBay (black housing and clear corner). I went through the frustration of finding that the original H7 bulbs do not work. CarID (Lumen) are the same exact ones and the spec showed H1.

     

     

    I went out to autozone to find H1's and they did NOT fit. The connector inside has two prongs while H1's normally have 1 pin.

     

     

    Most LEDs will have a huge heatsink that will not fit with the dust cap.

     

     

    I did some research and found these on amazon. They are great so far and work great with the DNA motoring headlamps.

     

     

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CNZPPC2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     

     

    Sorry for the crappy photos

     

     

    e74SnsR.jpg

    tmJ4Xx0.jpg

    1HxKBO7.jpg

  6. tT0pNEY.jpg

     

     

    Picked up this set from eBay. I pulled the bumper and old headlights apart and realized that the H7s do not fit in the low beam projector housing. After doing some research, i found them on another website - https://www.carid.com/2013-subaru-legacy-headlights/lumen-factory-style-headlights-2051170194.html.

     

     

    They call for H1s. I went to autozone to get some H1s. The wiring harness has two prongs and the H1s have one pin? I'm currently looking for a bulb that will work. Car is still apart and I rode my bike to work.

  7. %5Bimg%5Dhttp%3A//legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2509&pictureid[/img]Picking up my "new" 2014 Legacy 2.5i Limited in Twilight Blue Metallic with leather interior and moonroof package today. I'm excited for this after owning a 2006 Outback 2.5i for 10 years! No more football players or gear to haul around, LOL!

     

    Where are the pictures?

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