Phate

I second this question????????????????????????

 

 

 

Just want to verify: Is Rotella T6 no longer acceptable since they modified the formula? Will likely switch back to Penzoil Platinum 5W-30 if so.

I decided to try out the Mobil 1 5W40 Turbo Diesel Truck for an oil change or two. So far so good, I seem to burn slightly less of it than I did with Brotella.

I was thinking about this and wondered about the dual-diagonal brake line setup. When the brake failure happened, was it a total loss of braking power, or did the dual-diagonal system allow the system to work with much longer stopping distances?

The subaru pretty much had zero braking, even after I refilled the master cylinder.

When my honda popped a line, there was a ton of pedal travel, but in the last inch or so it would lock the remaining intact diagonal circuit.

Brand new Toyotas were driving themselves WOT into brick walls not too long ago.

To be fair, most of these were caused by idiots stacking up floor mats to the point that they were blocking the pedal. Just mashing the brake pedal/putting the car into neutral allowed it to stop just fine even with the throttle pinned. Tested it myself in several toyotas.

There was a woman that killed three pedestrians with her highlander fairly local to me while all of that was going on, and said the throttle stuck. Obviously it got a lot of attention, and people were speculating that it was related to the other "unintended acceleration" cases. Driver was wearing flip flops, which allegedly got stuck in the pedal. Would have happened in literally any car.

Yeah, it was definitely not cool and we had a pretty serious discussion about getting rid of the car afterwards. If anything like that ever happens again, we may stop buying Subaru for good.

My mom's 2012 Legacy 2.5i dropped a valve guide somewhere in the mid-60k range. A 2.5i, CVT car, that doesn't burn oil and has been kept up to date on service, basically needed an engine before 100k. My point is that car has had a very easy life and is well taken care of.

3 weeks and a grand or so later (Subaru covered part of the repair, could have probably gotten more but jumped at the lower number) and the car was fixed, and hasn't missed a beat.

Just like with my car, and yours, once the issue has been fixed the car goes right back to being the wonderful vehicle you like so much, but some experiences just completely shake your confidence/enthusiasm for a vehicle.

I would be extremely surprised if she ends up in another subaru. If you ignore that time the car lunched the motor (or at least the top end) and was stranded on the side of the highway, it's probably been one of the best cars we've ever owned. If I had to guess, she'll be going back to a toyota product (like AWD Lexus sedan), because her old 2003 camry was troublefree right up until the moment my sister totaled it.

For me it was head gasket issues, hence I told people get turbo or 2010+ .

 

FWIW I think my next batch I should be able to do in about 3 hours

Next batch of head gaskets or brake lines, lol?

Things that just break the car are annoying for sure, but I'd rather get a phone call about "the car shit the bed, come pick me up so I can tell you that older cars are a bad idea" than find out it lost the brakes and piled into the back of another car.

Brakes failed on my 07 LGT on the highway a few weeks ago due to this issue. My girlfriend was driving alone at the time. Car was inspected earlier in the year by a dealer local to me.

 

Honestly, I think replacement should be mandatory and that 4g Legacy owners should plan for it around the 100k mark, especially in the Northeast.

Yikes dude. Something like that is the biggest thing that's holding me back from suggesting my girlfriend get into a legacy or an outback from this year range. Don't really want to think about what would happen if the car lost a brake line with just her, or just her and the kid in the car.

I'm gonna have to take a look at the brakes and lines on her Honda Fit next time I get a chance.

How many other high-volume cars (i.e. Civics, Camrys, Corollas, etc.) have had brake-line recalls? There's plenty of those on the road, even up here in the salt-laden NE, that don't have a known issue with brake lines rusting and failing. I see enough late 80s and early 90s cars that clearly have been neglected still on the road. I just can't believe that the owners of these cars are really adamant about inspecting and cleaning their brake lines when large portions of the body have been consumed by rust

In Upstate NY, the land of salt, mid-90's honda's with normal "northeast car" levels of rust tend to start popping brake lines after 15 years or so. My 97 accord cracked a brake line in 2011-2012 when I was blasting through snowbanks in a lowered car. It killed another line in 2014. A friend's 95 accord killed a line in 2013 as well.

Also it's worth noting: 90's honda's with dual diagonal brakes stop a whole lot better after they lose a brake line than LGT's do.

Since replacing the MAF didn't help with the idle leaning out, I started looking for vacuum leaks. I've heard of using the carb cleaner/starting fluid method, where you listen for idle to rise, but I've never really seen it make a difference. Well the other day I saw a post on RomRaider suggesting to watch AF 1 Correction while spraying carb cleaner.

Even easier than the carb cleaner is to stick a piece of tubing over the end of a propane torch, turn the gas on, and poke around in the engine bay near suspect areas. It's the same principle, but you're not spraying carb cleaner all over things.

Yup noticed that too about flaring tools. Went with OEM TOOLS 24364 it's $10 right now on Amazon. Eastwood's inline tool looked nicer, but after looking at both of them in use, I think the OEM Tools one will be easier to use since you can fit a wrench on the body.

 

I ordered Stainless Steel 3/8"-24 fittings, just need to find stainless steel connectors now.

I think mine is the CalVan one, but it was under $40 so I can't imagine we're looking at an especially large difference in quality. I bought it a few years ago, not 100% on why I picked that model. It might have covered more line sizes than the $10 ones did.

That's the plan, pricing out flaring tool and copper nickel lines right now.

Get an inline flaring tool. You'll thank me later. I have a cheap crappy one, and it's worlds better than the bar style I've used before.

Currently in the middle of doing the brake and fuel lines on my accord with nicopp tubing. Also adding an adjustable proportioning valve because racecar (more accurately because it's getting a rear disk conversion soon).

My soon to be 20 year old Infiniti doesn't have this issue.

 

I wouldn't complain if there was no recall, recall determined that Subaru used inferior materials or designs, which prematurely rusts the brake lines, ie manufacturing defect. If there was no safety recall, I would agree with you, but Government and Subaru should fix it.

Also, the fact that they'll look at lines that are obviously trashed, spray some wax on them, and call it good seems pretty half assed. If the wax was applied within the first few years, that'd be one thing, but it doesn't help much of anything once they're already well on their way to rusting.

I've popped a line twice in my 20 year old accord, and it's currently on jackstands getting all new lines (among other things). There's no recall for it, because there wasn't anything to indicate that they rusted more than any other car in the northeast.

Wear and tear, what B.S.! Subaru admitted the material they used was defective and could corrode. Obviously, the anti-corrosion coating they put on during the recall was too little, too late. The corrosion had already got to your brake lines and weakened them. The dealership that did the recall did not inspect very thoroughly or this would have been caught back then. Really disappointing to hear this from Subaru. You deserve better treatment.

Exactly.

My situation was slightly different because the recall had not been performed yet, but if they're rusting out, throwing some waxy gloop onto them isn't gonna suddenly make them stop rusting.

The dealership I brought my car to was great, mostly because everybody seemed really shocked that I wasn't angry or freaked out when I went in there to tell them about how my car tried to kill me by completely losing the brakes on the highway.

As a heads up, if you do end up replacing the section of line yourself, grab some nicopp tubing and custom-bend them based on what's left of your old lines. Stuff is WAY easier to work with, and is designed to be extremely corrosion resistant.

Call SOA, The dealer is supposed to replace the bad parts.

 

My 05 wagon had the recall done a few years back, about a year ago the same thing happened to me as you had happen.

 

I had AAA take it to the dealer, they replaced all the brake lines, at no cost to me.

Lucky you, I had mine let go at 70mph when I was slowing for traffic that backed up on the exit ramp. Pumped, got a little of of braking, then downshifted to third while holding the handbrake to scrub speed. Limped it the rest of the way into work where I took this picture. I then limped it home, and later to the dealership.

Mine ended up being covered (I was under the impression that it had been done, I was wrong). I'd call SOA, if the recall was done only 3 years ago, it looks like they half-assed it at best, which could open up a can of worms the company doesn't want to deal with.

So, you're saying the sensor swivels enough to clear the obstruction above it? The new part arrives in a few days. I'll report back with a photo.

Yup!

It's totally something was was intended to be serviced by taking more things off (like the intake manifold), but I got mine out without pulling basically anything apart (just the intercooler, obviously) by modifying a socket to be able to angle into the spot I needed, and also swearing at it a lot.

I grabbed a pair of used ones from 541 Motorsports for like $20 or $25 each, in case the driver's side one was flaky, but it's generally the one closer to the hot turbo that craps out.

I know exactly what you're referring to, those hard stutters are kinda terrifying when they happen at full throttle. I thought I had blown a charge pipe the first time it happened.

If you can get the 10mm bolt out, you can get the sensor out. I had to dremel down a cheap 10mm 1/4in drive socket to do so, but I got it out.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2353034

 

Designed an LED bulb adapter for wagon reverse lights. May work on the sedan as well, but I haven't looked to see if the mounting base is the same. This will let you use the CREE "20W" T15 led bulbs that look like aftermarket LED headlights. These actually run at ~10W each, but are a hell of a lot brighter than the stock bulbs.

I've been kicking around the idea of making an adapter to stick my disused OPT7 LED's in my reverse lights, lol. They're questionably useful in the low beams, but they could be hilarious as reverse lights.

Of course I cut up some old abs off a truck bed liner, and haven't the access to a coolkid 3d printer.... lol

I'm about $300 into my printer, they're getting pretty cheap.

I'm mostly going to use mine to prototype some car parts and to fix my RC stuff.

Yep. Oil line is a 1k dollar dealer job

Wait what? The 5 inch rubber hose that's a PITA to get to?

I feel a lot better about the afternoon I spent swearing at that and my AVO inlet right now.

This thread almost makes me wish my steering rack was crappy.

Can't justify replacing a nice tight 85k mile LGT rack, although I can absolutely appreciate the difference a faster rack makes.

My accord handles better than my LGT, but since the LGT has a much faster rack it feels a lot more willing and responsive chucking it around.

This is great guys, keep those requests posted as it will be something I can refer to cobb once the list gets to where we know it will. The other thing to keep in mind is this is not just for flex fuel. The cobb custom features provide the option so you can dummy both TGV sensors and the rear 02 for custom sensors *ie fuel pressure,oil pressure and wideband. plus you can use the fp sensor to have an active fuel pressure differential which is very helpful for the "stumble" due to pressure resonance and changing fuel pressure at the rail. cool stuff for sure.

Honestly I'm mostly interested in the additional software features to allow direct wideband logging through my APV3. E85 is likely in my car's future, but I would use the hell out of some more analog inputs.

Went to LVD again, 14.447 @ 96.02mph. 60' was in the 2.08x range, so slightly worse than last time (my clutch hates its life), finally figured out launching from out of the groove on my last two runs of the night.

Same mods. Iced the intercooler between runs because heatsoak was a thing last time. Same amount of stuff in the trunk (cordless impact, toolbox, 12in sub and amp, hydraulic floor jack), didn't have anybody to leave it with when I was running. Got a couple of 97mph passes this time, but they were accompanied by garbage launches.

From hence forward I propose that thou shalt refer to thine buddy's friend as thine own buddy.

2005 Subaru Legacy GT 5MT

1/4 14.713 @ 95.39mph

Cobb OTS stage 2, invidia catted DP, turboXS UP, slipping clutch, heavy 18's, trunk full of things, stock exhaust, first time drag racing.

Lebanon Valley Dragway

I was car #71.

http://i.imgur.com/LLkuNT6.jpg?4

Pre-09 cars basically just get a CEL & OBD2 function check. They ask the ECU if everything is OK. For any car with a decent tune, the ECU reports that everything is OK.

NY seems to be the same way. My early OBD2 honda (stock engine with boltons) seems to get a lot more scrutiny than my subaru does. Both are just largely a "does the horn work, do the lights work, is the CEL off with all but 1-2 ready monitors not set? That'll be $21, here's your sticker"

from what a cobb rep told me over the phone awhile ago it's not a matter of if anymore but when

 

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This would make me decide to go farther than a stage 2 protune.