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RckyMtnGT

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Everything posted by RckyMtnGT

  1. Just sent a PM. In for a preface harness, when you have more available.
  2. Started having fuel trim issues several days ago. It was pulling more and more fuel out over a couple weeks. Didn't think much about it for a bit, just kept an eye on it. Kept creeping up slowly, until it was around -12. Drove home one day and it spiked all the way down to -24! Was super pig rich under boost, pegged my wideband, kept bouncing around. At least it wasn't lean...Did a quick smoke test at work the next day, no sign of leaks. Didn't really expect any, but never hurts to smoke it. Pulled the AF sensor and found the problem - the shield and interior had completely separated and were turning around in my hand. That'll do it! I had a video but I'm too lazy to post it and its just a sensor tip spinning anyways...Replaced that, and spark plugs, and cleared codes. All better! Running like it should, now. That sensor had a hard life, I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did. Used it several months before my rebuild, and then went in to the new motor, which then had my dyno session on it, followed by almost a year at 400whp (don't tell Dave I said that, its actually 396whp but that doesn't sound as cool ) And inspecting the plugs, everything looked ok, but man it is hard on plugs. One step colder NGK's, and nothing was 'wrong' with them, but they had a boatload of wear on the grounds for 14k miles. I can pull a Toyota iridium plug at 120k and not be sure whether its brand new or not...Not so on this motor! I'll be doing plugs every 15k just to stay on top of it. Doesn't show up too well in the pic but side by side was surprising. Just did an oil change on Friday, along with some new gear oil. Changed from BG Ultraguard 75-90 to Motul 300. Improvement for sure, if not drastic. The BG is high quality, but we have the version with limited slip additive, which is not needed in the trans. When I installed the 6 speed, it was late and the BG was in a big barrel with a pump handle on it, so it was easiest to put in at that moment. But I think the limited slip additive was working against the synchros. Too slippery. Sorry for the delay. Those are the Kics Iconix R40 in 'neochro', or neochrome. seen it written both ways...They were pricey and unnecessary, but everyone comments on my nuts
  3. Wow i've been away a long time..everything looks different here! Haven't changed a whole lot, but did get my Stoptech kit installed. Tried a set of Wilwoods a few months ago, and it never worked right. Never did figure out why they failed so bad, but the Stoptechs have been flawless so far. Have yet to get on the track with them, but they work great on the daily commute They legit do feel much better than the stock brakes - more immediate without being touchy, and balance still feels essentially stock. Track test soon. Redid my alignment now that my shop got a real alignment machine. Took some pics cuz she was shiny
  4. Howdy from Lakewood! I work up there, just south of the Federal Center on Kipling. Recently swapped in a 2012 STI trans, so its relatively fresh in my head. The stickied swap thread above is a great resource, but you're right - its a bit dense. Took me quite a while poking thru and gathering information I needed, but it is all there. Check out my posts Here and Here for some of what I was able to gather. Not all of it is applicable, but tidbits help. If you've got a donor car, then yeah, should be a pretty straightforward affair for drivetrain stuff. As far as what to do while the whole thing is out, well that gets to be a real long list real fast. Sky is kind of the limit, or at least your budget is. New clutch is definitely in order. I've been a big fan of the SouthBend clutches. Running a stage 3 daily now, which is way overkill for your needs, but I'd trust and recommend anything in their lineup. Lots of options out there, though. Exedy Stage 1 I've heard good things about. Since you're in Lakewood, once you have your resurfaced flywheel and new pressure plate in hand, take the pair over to Doug's Balancing and have him balance it. 60 bucks to do it. I won't do a clutch on my own vehicle without balancing, now. I'd recommend replacing the various shifter bushings while its easy. Whiteline makes a kit that works well, includes the front bushings and the rear stay bushing, part KDT957. I didn't use the Whiteline rear stay, ended up with a 'Group N' from the dealer. Either one will work, but they all help eliminate slop in the shifter assembly. For sure get the Whiteline rear diff positive power inserts, part KDT903. Made a huge difference in shift feel - eliminated all kinds of rubber banding on clutch engagement. I replaced all my mounts with Group N mounts from the dealer. Engine, pitch stop, and trans mount. Highly recommended. Minimal NVH added, lots of slop eliminated. Engine side, you can go wild with it, if you want to. Use OEM parts as much as you can. Definitely rear main seal. There's some other seals back there on the block at the air/oil separator you might consider if they're showing signs of leaking. Timing belt will never be easier than with the engine on a stand. Use an Aisin Kit, TKF-004. Skip the Gates kits. Do the spark plugs, even if they've been done. Reseal the valve covers. Use OEM Subaru gaskets, they're worth it. Dont forget the spark plug tube seals and the half moons. Front crank seal. Get some new exhaust gaskets, Grimmspeed makes some nice double thick turbo gaskets. Make sure your turbo is in good shape while its accessible, no shaft play present. Get a new turbo oil drain tube. Check all the coolant lines, at the turbo, the reservoir, the crossover pipe down front, and the lines that connect it, all those little rubber "L" pieces. Check the turbo inlet tube, they get greasy and soft and can tear where it clamps to the turbo. Now's the time to replace it. Get a new PCV valve assembly, now's the time to replace it. There's a theme here, lol, 'Now's the time'. Consider replacing the upstream Air/fuel sensor - they age and can get less responsive, which affects how it runs. I'm running the Killer B oil pan/pick up/baffle package, and its definitely nice, but it sure is pricey. Might be overkill for a stock power build, but you can never say no to more oil capacity. Moroso makes a nice steel pan thats quite a bit cheaper. You can stick with the factory pan if you want to, but I would at least do one of the upgraded oil pick-up tubes. Factory pick up can crack and start sucking air. Grab a tube of either the ThreeBond sealant from Subaru, or FIPG 103 from Toyota to reseal all the things on the motor/oil pan/etc. Better than the store bought stuff. Like Max said above, once you're all done with the mechanical stuff, go see Dave over at Cryotune Performance in Arvada for a tune, or find him on here. Get yourself an Accessport from him. I know you said you're not going for power, but they allow you to get off the factory tune, which is far from ideal. He'll get it running way better and safer than factory, even if you're not trying to make power. He's a great resource for information, and a great tuner - dyno or e-tuned. He tuned mine to 400whp on his dyno. More importantly, its safe. Idea -- skip the KillerB pan, get a new OEM pan, and put that money towards the Accessport! Perfect! lol... Anyways, that's a really long way to say, there's lots of things you can do! Keep reading here as much as you can, it's all been done and written about at some point, somewhere. PM me if you have specific questions, or if you're ever in the Kipling/Kentucky area, I work at one of the auto shops there.
  5. Thats awesome, super glad to hear its running, and for good clutch results! That was the best way to describe it, it was very "positive", direct without being harsh or unforgiving. Heftier than stock, but not obnoxious. Did an oil change last night, I'm happy with the signs on the magnetic drain plug. Each oil change since the new motor went in has had less and less material stuck to the magnet. This change had the dyno session on it, as well. If I weren't lazy I'd have UOA's done, buuuut...yeah. Lubed up my squeaky rear sway bar bushings, no more creaaaaaaking over speed bumps. Figured out the O-rings on the dipstick tube are leaking on my Killer B oil pan. Not sure I want to pull the stick and try new rings. Might be super ghetto and jam some FIPG down the hole Thats the only leak on a complete new build tho, pretty happy.
  6. That's who I got mine from as well, super happy with it. Unobtrusive and highly visible. My only consideration would be a hood of some sort over the faces to block some glare on the windshield. Even with some minor reflections present, I'd buy it again.
  7. Hey that looks familiar Glad it made it over there! I liked the Southbend clutch so much I got another stage 3 daily for my 6 speed, its a winner! Good progress, too, its always exciting seeing a project come back together. I suppose my own project is 'done', haven't done a ton recently tho. Just driving, lamenting the summer heat and watching it get hailed on I'm a little late for updates, but I got my tune done over at Cryotune recently! Super stoked how she turned out. 396hp/401tq on E85.
  8. Got everything installed last night, minus the MapDCCD. Didn't get started till 3pm, cuz I was lazy, then ended up marathoning it until 2am. Not recommended... Some thoughts/notes below. Seems like the 08+ STI shift linkages are entirely compatible. I ordered a new shift rod because the part numbers were different between an '08 SpecB and a '12 STI. Once in hand, they are identical in every way I could discern. I ordered that and an reverse cable because again, different numbers, but so far the reverse cable from the '12 trans is working fine. It seemed like the driveshaft (4eat) did not have much or any room to slip once installed - it bottomed out on the yoke and stayed there. Dont know if thats a 'problem', but it seems like it should have a bit of slip available. Bolted up just fine with the r160 flange, though. I've got a chirping/whirring noise that sounds like metal on metal rubbing. Quite noticeable from inside and outside the car. Seemed to decrease on the drive home, but still present now. It must be clearancing itself. Need to see what the driveshaft is rubbing on, maybe one of the shrouds is bent enough to contact something it shouldn't be. I wanted to look at it right then, but 2am and a mad wife back at home said 'tomorrow'. Reverse cable seems to be sticking on the shift lever. Whatever the rubber coating is on there looks to have expanded up top and catches it and has to be pushed back down. Didn't see any way to get the 5 speed shifter boot on to the lever, so just running without for now. Again, 2am probably clouding judgement. Investigate later. Turns out you can remove the rear diff without unbolting any of the rear suspension to get the axles out beforehand. I didn't want to unbolt any of the arms, because lazy, so I unbolted the diff and dropped it down out of the mounts with the help of a tranny jack. Dropped the exhaust hanger near the diff off for more downward clearance. Pried out the passenger rear axle from the diff, which was very difficult, but possible. Then popped the driver rear axle out of the diff, and the diff was free. Then you just unbolt the axle nuts and slide them out. Install was the reverse. Install axles, get the driver side axle installed in the diff, pry the passenger side axle in, then lift and bolt the diff up. It took a soft deadblow hammer to fully seat the axles in the diff, couple of whacks on both inner joints and they popped in to the C-clips, fully flush with the diff surface. I purchased the Whiteline rear diff positive power kit prior to install, highly recommended. I previously had the Whiteline bushing inserts for the rear-most mounts on the r160, which made a huge difference in shift feel. On RallySport's site, they dont list the full kit for a 5 speed, only the rear inserts, and the kit does not include the forward diff carrier mount inserts. Assumed the r160 and r180 carrier bushings were different since it didn't list them as available for the 5speed. Turns out nah, the full kit would have fit the 5 speed carrier just fine. So now I've got an extra half set of rear bushings. Anyways - highly recommend this kit. KDT903. Driving is completely different, obviously. The trans feels...new? modern? positive? Not exactly fair comparing a 140k 5 speed to a 44k 6speed with all new bushings, but wow. I do notice that downshifting from 5 to 4 is not quite mindless - if I don't hesitate for a fraction of a second, the shifter wont return to center quick enough and it drops in to 6th again. I'm sure I need to 'learn' the trans a bit, but I may see about a stiffer return spring? Not sure I've seen one for the 6speed, but I know thats a thing on other trans. Haven't looked yet. We'll see how it feels once I get more than 24 miles on it. Using a Southbend stage 3 daily clutch. Overkill, but I've got headroom now for a larger turbo. Feels great so far. No stiffer than the 5 speed stage 3. Not obnoxiously stiff, feels probably 30% stiffer than a stock. Hard to quantify 'feel', but it feels fine. Had the stock flywheel resurfaced, and then took the flywheel and clutch cover to be balanced together at a local balancing shop. Had it done on my 5 speed Southbend stage 3 daily and flywheel as well. Highly recommended. Any clutch I do will be balanced now. Balancer actually removed a fair amount of weight to balance the STI assembly, makes me wonder what it would have felt like if left unbalanced. Currently using BG Ultraguard 75-90 gear oil front and rear, because its great gear oil, and because it was in a keg with a handle and nozzle and was easier to pump in. Used 11 pints total F and R. No complaints so far, trans feels great. But I only have 24 miles on it, too. Not expecting anything untoward with it, but if I dont like it I'll drop it for some Motul 300. Anyways, enough rambling. Glad to have it installed. Time to investigate noises. MapDCCD wiring later.
  9. Grats on the swap! Use an Aisin timing belt kit - TKF-004 . Dont forget external belts if yours are worn. Consider replacing the crank seal as well. The Company 23 cam lock tool is a very nice thing to have, though certainly not required. This is kind of a general 6 speed question - whats the consensus on replacing the shifter bushings? Specifically the rear shifter stay bushing. How much NVH does it add? Is there enough positive improvement to justify adding any NVH? I suddenly find myself with 3 options in hand. Didn't realize the trans had one, it was hiding under the boot and I didn't spot it. So I've got stock STI rear bushing, I ordered the stiffer 'group N' bushing from the dealer, and I ordered the Whiteline bushing kit with front and rear bushings since it was so cheap. I figure I'll for sure do the front bushings, but if the rear just makes it noisy without much improvement, I'll stick to one of the rubber factory options.
  10. Thanks, thats good to hear. I dunno either, pretty sure external dimensions are all the same, but all the talk about various shifter and rod lengths kinda threw it in the air. Probably be obvious once the car is torn apart.
  11. Picked up a 44k mile 2012 STI trans and diff a couple weeks ago, and feel like I've been reading through 160 pages of this thread about three times now! Didn't expect to pick one up this quickly after getting my 5mt sorted out, but here I am. Got a MapDCCD controller as well, that'll be fun to play with. All my remaining parts should be in by the end of the week. I need a place to keep things straight, this might work better than a paper scrap in my wallet! 2012 6MT shift linkage came with 6mt new shifter rod u-joint, just cuz its out - 35046-ag000 R180 - flange off the the 160 4eat driveshaft from an '07 legacy resurfaced flywheel 8 flywheel bolts new clutch 9 pressure plate bolts reuse 5mt starter 6mt slave cylinder clutch return spring - 30546-aa060 new spec b axles - 28421-AG03b spec b/sti rear diff carrier - 41310-ag040 whiteline diff bushings whiteline front shifter bushings 6mt trans mount d1010-fe000 6mt shift knob - 35022-va000 rear shifter stay mount - b0220-fg300 rear diff axle seals trans output seal Probably have to add to that, but I think its almost complete. Not positive on the direction I'll go for the trans harness and dccd wiring. I was looking at the iWire kit, and wanted to call them today but it appears they're closed for an employee's honeymoon. Or see if Mr. Dade had any insight about his harness adventures. Just to extra-verify a couple points- - The 2012 shift linkage and reverse cable is acceptable, correct? - 5mt starter will work? Read a couple of conflicting reports, but they look the same externally. - Hoping to be able to reuse my 5mt shift surround and boot, is that feasible? Trimming sounds involved. Again, seems like differing accounts in this thread. Not sure there are any Spec B surrounds left anymore, either. Suppose I'll find out shortly!
  12. I'd be checking clutch hydraulics. If you can pump the pedal a few times and it works for a bit, then it sounds like a leak somewhere - check the fluid level, then look for a leak at the clutch master cylinder, the flex hose, or the slave cylinder. Master cylinder can leak on the cabin side of the firewall as well, get a flashlight and look up at it from inside the car. The rubber boot that the rod passes through will get all greasy and nasty. If its really bad it can run down the firewall and make more things nastier.
  13. Probably has about an inch, inch and a half-ish clearance to the header. Definitely not touching. I replaced those coolant elbows, too, again pretty cheap thru the dealer. The sealing surfaces of the hard pipes under the clamps was where I had the 'worst' corrosion. You could probably push that pipe up a little, and reposition the rubber a bit if necessary. Or one of these: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/heat-isolation-heat-wrap/the-14035-thermo-tec-express-sleeve-1-5in-x-3ft They've got various diameters, and the 'express' sleeve would allow the support bar to pass thru.
  14. I'd replace that coolant pipe, it looks pretty dang corroded to begin with, and now without paint it'll go even faster. They aren't too expensive at the dealer, I just replaced mine for peace of mind. Then I decided to put some DEI Reflect-a-gold around it. Used the 2 inch roll of it and just cut small pieces and wrapped it up. Should help a bit. I picked it up at RallySport direct on sale, but I was suprised to see it at my local Pep Boys, too, along with a bunch of other heat-rejection stuff, wraps, sheaths, tape, etc. Might be worth a look if you have one close. I had my header ceramic coated locally, largely just cuz it was the easiest option. Does it do as well as a dedicated heat shield, or SwainTech, or wrap - probably not. But its at least not bare metal, now.
  15. Haven't done this damper removal, but something else that helped my shifting and clutch engagement a lot was installing the Whiteline rear diff insert bushings. I was surprised at how much better and more direct the clutch pedal felt. Removed a whole lot of the 'rubber band' like effect while shifting. With the bushings, and this damper removal, I bet you could perform surgery with the clutch pedal
  16. Yeah, this one got me the first week I owned it, the car wash place hit the switch, and it took me an embarrassing amount of time to figure out why the lights were still on once I got home. I think my biggest 'what were they thinking' quirk is the lack of a 'sync' button for the climate controls. Every other vehicle I've been in with dual climate control has a 'sync,', or 'dual' button, so you don't have to turn two knobs to get the temps the same. Two knobs, every damn time!
  17. Hmm, apparently I'm not on this list yet, but I would throw down money right now if it was announced. I was bugging the guys at the Cobb booth at the RockyMtn Subaru Fest, they said they actually had a few people asking about our platform that same day. Fingers crossed!
  18. Just placed an order for a kit Preparation for a vf52 and tuning. Was planning on having a new tmic before a turbo replacement, but my 46 decided to give up the ghost a bit early. So it goes!
  19. Not nearly as glamorous as all these sexy wagons and such, but still rolling! Taken from an open track day last fall out at High Plains Raceway. We got one last run in with 5 people in my car, it was a trip...Got black flagged till they confirmed we all had seatbelts on
  20. Had the same intermittent air bag light in colder weather. Checked the upper console and I could see what looked like a hair-line crack in one of the 331 chips. In the picture its under LED4. You can just make it out in the picture, not the thick dark line, but the thin tiny one under that. Anyways, I added/reflowed a small amount of solder on there, and went through and touched just about every other joint for good measure. No more light yet, and its been even colder than when it started. Good for now!
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