05LegacyGTGa

Like I asked in your other post, how much the DSS one piece ?

 

You can put prices here, its ok.

 

Ok I just checked your other post,

 

$625 is a big difference.

 

I'm happy with the drive shaft store I have. I think it was like $435.

 

FWIW, I haven't tried to see if the locking grease tip from https://locknlube.com/collections/locknlube-grease-coupler fits yet.

 

But it did fit on the 1986 F150 U joints to grease them.

 

Looks like the one for the auto is $476.28.

 

Is that grease tip needed for it?

The Driveshaft store, tell them you heard about them from us or me. I talked to Steve there last summer time.

 

Awesome. Thanks! That was the one I was starting to lean towards after reading more posts!

It seems like a couple of people have had a good experience with the stockish replacement from the driveshaft store.

 

I'm guessing this would be the one for my car:

 

https://driveshaftstore.com/Subaru-Legacy-Driveshaft-2005-111530

 

I like the idea of the solid aluminum 1 piece from the driveshaft shop, but it is more pricey.

 

Link to the one from the driveshaft shop:

 

https://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-driveshafts/subaru/legacy-2005/2005-subaru-legacy-2-5-gt-1-piece-aluminum-driveshaft-5-speed-automatic-only

I have an 05 GT Limited Wagon with squeaking and rattling coming from the carrier bearing. Its also a 5EAT. Should I pull the trigger on the one from the driveshaft store? I was also looking at the 1 piece from the driveshaft shop, but its more pricey.

$625 I believe.

I have a lot of squeaking from my driveshaft on my car. I'm assuming its the carrier bearing. It also sounds like an aluminum can rattling under the cup holder under load. I'm going to replace it, but I can't figure out which way to go. I was looking at the Dorman replacement, but have heard people say they have problems with vibration with those. Then there's the stock Subaru replacement that is pricey. Also looking at the 1 piece driveshaft from the driveshaft shop, but my car is completely stock and not sure if the 1 piece changes anything. I recently saw a thread about getting one from the driveshaft store. They seemed to be happy with that one and its not terribly priced.

 

Which route should I go?! I've looked at so much information now that I can't process anything anymore, ha. Thanks!

Anyone have issues with the steering wheel center/airbag piece getting sticky/tacky like the dash?

I do and am in mentor every now and then but live in Cleveland heights. My winter wheels are plastidipped aqua so if that's what you saw, that was me haha. I met a guy last year who also has a swp wagon tho. Not sure if he's on here

 

That had to be you! I thought I saw aqua wheels! It was near Taco Bell on Mentor Ave. Probably around March 7th. The roads suck so bad up there!

Anyone here have a SWP Wagon in the Mentor area?

should be. yes. driver side.

 

Hmmmmm....I don't have one. I guess I should contact the dealership that replaced the dash?

Update on the Aluminum “ULTRA-POWER“ arms: they may very well be junk. Car felt super solid for the first 120 miles are so. In the last week it’s developed a clunk and pop in the front when stopping or turning. Need to get the car in the air to check, but I strongly suspect the balljoints May have already gone bad.

 

Guess you get what you pay for, just wish I hadn't dropped $500 in labor swapping them out and aligning the car to find this.

 

Mine is doing the same thing on the drivers side. Quiet and tight after first putting them on. I don't really have a clunk, but more of a squeak and pop maybe? I'm not sure, its kind of hard to describe. I've gotten under it and checked all bolts and it still does it. Very irritating!

Is there supposed to be a VIN plate on the dash?

Did it work out?

 

So far so good!

Well, looking at the history of this car, it spent a good while in Maine....

Even at $110 a pop I think these are worth it if you either a.) don't have a press and have to pay for labor, or b.) have bad/rusted arms, c.) Need ball joints, front and rear bushings.

 

Mevotech uses what looks to be firmer bushings in the rear, they are definitely don't have the same voids in them. Looks like you can buy their bushings separately (I wonder how they compare to group n).

 

Here is the cost breakdown of all the parts without the control arms themselves:

Front Bushing: $15.78 - MEVOTECH MS80428 Supreme

Rear Bushing: $15.80 - MEVOTECH MS80427 Supreme

Ball Joint: $14.00 - MEVOTECH MK9513 Supreme With X Factor Technology

 

So just in parts you are at $46 per arm without shipping.

 

Add in labor of pushing the bushings out and your probably going to be closer to $100 per arm to just refresh your current stock arms.

 

 

With that said, I JUST found another alternative, this one is $54 per arm! Rock auto only shows it as being compatible with Non turbo cars, which is weird. They have the same exact part number as Mevotech, just different brand and different ball joints at least, everything else looks identical (even bushings)

ULTRA-POWER CMS80182

ULTRA-POWER CMS80181

 

Rock Auto even names them "802_ULTRAPOWER MEVOTECH_CMS80182_1__ra_p.jpg". So I think these might be Mevotech's with their non Supreme bushings!

 

http://www.rockauto.com/info/802/802_ULTRAPOWER%20MEVOTECH_CMS80182_1__ra_p.jpg

http://www.rockauto.com/info/802/802_ULTRAPOWER%20MEVOTECH_CMS80182_3__ra_p.jpg

 

 

Got mine installed! Everything seems fine with them. Simple to install. Everything seemed to fit right. Now getting my old ones off....holy crap, I was about to just get rid of the whole car...Looked to be the originals. Car has 202,000 miles on it. Freeing those balljoints was a PITA!!!

Yea, thanks for the follow up! I'll report when I get mine!

Just ordered a set! I hope it all works out!

I do. I noticed it after I got it home. They want me to bring it in on Tuesday.

Can anyone recommend what I should do?

So here's what I noticed after I got my car back from the dash replacement...

 

Someone obviously ran the front of my car over a curb or something. Yes, it had some from before, but the circled areas are all new..

 

Lower Front Bumper Cover by kornfan891, on Flickr

 

Passenger Side by kornfan891, on Flickr

 

Drivers Side by kornfan891, on Flickr

 

Bumper Above by kornfan891, on Flickr

 

Bumper Above 1 by kornfan891, on Flickr

 

 

My carpet was also like this...

 

Carpet by kornfan891, on Flickr

 

Carpet 1 by kornfan891, on Flickr

 

And the drivers door panel...

 

Drivers Door Panel by kornfan891, on Flickr

 

I know I obviously need to say something. What seems fair in this situation?

 

 

Oh yea, my dash. Yes, my windshield is terrible.

 

Dash by kornfan891, on Flickr

 

Dash 1 by kornfan891, on Flickr

Let me know if your dash is wavy or smooth like the stock one please. Over the passengers side airbag.

 

When you say smooth or wavy, what do you mean exactly? I got mine back today. I'm about to post some pics of something else I noticed when I got the car back...

Not yet. Dropped it off at 10:00 yesterday. I told them to take their time on it. I'm enjoying the 2017 Outback limited I have right now, haha

Will do!

Mine finally started to get more sticky the week of the 31st. So I took it in and they approved me for a new dash. They said it would probably be 2-3 months before it would come in. Not even a week later I got a call saying the dash has arrived. I'm supposed to take it this Thursday to have it done. Should I be worried that it took 2-3 days instead of months?!

 

Also, my A/C and whatever all it is under the dash always makes the gurgling and all the crazy noises. Is this something that I should get fixed when doing the dash?

I had them do the airbag recall on my car. I also asked about the dash recall while they had it (even though mine isn't....or wasn't terrible. It has 2 cracks right above the glove box). They said it didn't qualify. But it looks like it qualifies to me after I got it back. There's little chunks out of the edges and stuff. I'm still not happy about it....