Too40gawlf

Manual is completely finished. It's like CRTs.

 

Toyota's stats:

1% take rate for corolla.

5% take rate for corolla hatch.

And get this bomb:

33% take rate for their 86!!! Even their sports car made for the manual, 66% of buyers are opting for the automatic.

 

I'm now even thinking WRX has probably 60% automatic nowadays, I'm even considering the CVT (drove CVT vs the manual, manual feels so old school and only good when you want to pound the transmission for 0-60)

Just as people still prefer a bolt action rifle vs. a semi auto, there will always be a certain segment of cars that will retain a manual.

Im sorry, anyone that is otherwise not inhibited by a medical condition (like a broken leg or surgically repaired knee) and can consider the Subaru CVT over the manual is just not a car guy. Thats like someone saying they would rather curl up with their girlfriend pillow rather than spend a night with Kate Upton because the pillow is easier to manage.

"Always" is a very long time. I think the market will eventually force Subaru, along with every other manufacturer, into offering electric vehicles.

Nope. The market is very clear in its preferences.

Its big government marxists and globalists that are forcing the mandate of the electric car.

Lol.

The people that would be drawn to an XT model will not want to go anywhere near a CVT and the people that would tolerate a CVT or dont even know what one is will not want to drive or pay for an XT.

[redacted]

Hey Guys,

Another shout out to Luke Corcione at Stamford Subaru. i called yesterday and he got me squared away with the Gold Plus Warranty for $1550. he was happy to learn about this site and this thread.

if you are interested in getting the warranty, dont hesitate to call him:

Luke Circione

(203) 252-2222 x109 - keep in mind he is off Thursday and Sunday.

Also, thanks to SecurityGuy for the hookup!

Just to update this thread.

My wife's car developed a whine/groan from the rear driver's side wheel. I pulled the wheel and the bearing hub turned freely with no perceivable lateral movement. I then rotated the tires to eliminate an unbalanced wheel and the noise still persisted. At that point, I took it in under warranty, suspecting a bad wheel bearing. They ended up changing both rear bearing hubs under warranty.

Interestingly, Ford sold about 80,000 Ford Tauruses in 2017 - but about 45K of those were fleet sales to PDs.

Subaru sold 50K Legacies in the U.S. in 2017.

By sheer numbers, the Taurus is a more common car on US roads, but more of the public bought Legacies vs. Tauruses in 2017.

Op's question is valid and I am definitely one of those who would look at how fast the car is and that is without getting into too many details. Is it a 4 sec car or a 7 sec car like the Legacy.... Usually, mostly out of curiosity.

 

PS: I had no idea Ford still made the Taurus yet alone the SHO, LoL, good times.

I can understand not knowing that the SHO existed as they are pretty subdued unless you know what you're looking at.

But not to realize that the Taurus was a current model? Do you live in a cave somewhere? You dont notice cop cars or these big Ford sedans on the street?

Not I, Mustangs drives like a whale. Every GT I've driven has left me wholly unimpressed. Though I haven't been behind the wheel of the lastest generation.

Well, now that you've invalidated your opinion in regards to performance cars, we can allow others to chime in.

But really does anyone want to buy a ford ? excluding the trucks they are just rentals around here.

Yeah, you know the GT350, the Focus RS, the Fiesta ST, not to mention the run of the mill Mustang GT... who would want those cars?

It's all magazine comparisons and I'm aware there are many variables when measuring how fast a car can run. But did anyone catch the 2018 outback 3.6r doing 0-60 in 6.9 seconds in 15.2 @ 95.9, about a half second than the 2015 test which was 0-60 in 7.4 in 15.7 @ 91.2.

 

I'm assuming the legacy might be a fraction faster too. But that trap speed and 0-60 breaking into late 6's makes me think that the 2018 model adjustments/tune subaru did to make the cvt more smooth on the 2018 models may have had an impact on performance. Just some fun #'s comparison. Tried looking up times on a 2018 legacy 3.6 but didn't find anything.

 

 

 

Thoughts?

Lol. Are you serious? There are probably a 100 factors which could effect the drag strip performance of the same car on different days to the tune of a few tenths, much less two different cars 3 years apart.

I will tell you this, if 0-60 and 1/4 mike are priorities for you, you are barking up the wrong tree with the Legacy. The 365 hp Taurus SHO will lay waste to a legacy and doesn’t cost all that much more.

Hey guys - I've actually since traded in the legacy for a truck, so no longer with the car. I did put 25k on the rear pads after doing the work with no issues. I also went back there once after doing the work to lubricate the system - all looked good.

 

I no longer have it in front of me, but the factory service manual specifies two ways to retract the pistons, (1) with a factory scan tool and (2) without the scan tool in the way that I did it. After putting the system back together and reconnecting the power harness, the first parking brake actuation took slightly longer than usual and sounded like it was recalibrating. Perfect after that.

 

Hope it helps!

Perfect - thank you!

Anyway, these electronic brakes have been on the market on Subarus for about 4 years now. I guarantee you that many of these cars have had brake jobs done at places other than the dealer. I dont see a raft of stories or cautionary tales on the internet about rear brakes failing when they were retracted manually.

Hopefully, OP can update. Ill take his input over others' conjecture.

If it were my car, I would use a scan tool. Do it manually at your own risk.

So do you think Subaru corporate, knowing hundreds of thousands of these cars would go to places like Midas and Quick - e- Lube, where Gomez would smash the piston back in like he does with countless 95 Camry's, proceeded to release to the market such a massive liability issue? You dont think they figured many many of these cars would end up at independent shops, retail lube joints, and driveways for a pad slap and they said, "Aww **** em, let em eat cake unless they have the multi thousand dollar Subaru scan tool and software?"

Bumping this thread to re-visit the electronic parking brake issue on the rear caliper.

First off, OP thank you for tackling this and posting photos. I know you can properly turn a wrench and from your SO flank drive 14mm, I see that you have quality tools. As such, your experience and opinion is worth 1,000 times more than some of the limpwrists on this forum who criticize but cant turn a wrench.

Now, to the issue at hand. Did you see any issue with manually retracting the pistons without using the 'Subaru Select Monitor' to set the brakes in maintenance mode?

Ive seen on other forums that the posters were unable to retract the caliper by hand and were concerned about forcing the piston and/or damaging the electronic parking brake actuator. Did you experience any issues afterward?

Thanks again, OP.

Im starting to hear some whining from my wife's car at 31K miles. Mine seems to be coming from the rear. I'll pull the wheel and rotor this weekend to take a look, listen, and feel.

Ive personally never owned a car that had a wheel bearing go bad prior to hitting 150K miles. If Subaru is having so many bearing issues, they need to take a look at who their bearing manufacturer is or re-visit the specs that they accept from them.

Well, the ape at autozone just plugs in the "battery testing device" that corporate sends. He looks at the numbers/ lights it displays and spits out a canned answer.

 

I don't think the scenario at the dealer will be any different when you take it there for them to test the battery. Now if you go back to the same dealer and say that you had a dead battery and you've already been there a few times, then the real tech will come look at what the issue is.

OK, chief.

 

I'm guessing the dealer and autozone have different parameters for battery tests...

 

.

I know this is a couple months old, but I had to reachback to say this:

Comparing a Subaru technician at your dealership to the ape at Autozone is about the equivalent of comparing your doctor to the cashier at CVS. Actually, the cashier at CVS would be closer to being a doctor than the autozone drone would to being an automotive technician.

I'm not sure how that's relevant to Matt_75 driving his 2016 Legacy 8 miles with excess fluid in its front differential.

Matt,

You didn’t do any damage. As a rule of thumb, I’ve always filled a diff to the point where it starts to just trickle out the fill hole. Apparently the Subaru method is different.

Anyway, just do as you mentioned with the check plug and let the excess drain out.

If you like, PM me and I will get you an FSM for our cars.

Good on you for actually turning a wrench and not making a post about LED lights and spoilers.

You buy a car for its safety and then don't do what the manufacturer tells you to do??? When it doesn't do as it's supposed to do, you will have no body to be pissed off at but yourself. I love my wife and my kids and ES was a big reason for purchasing a Subaru. If you don't love them enough to want to ensure they are well protected and that your ES is working exactly as designed then.......................

Hey, remember Meredith, the spicy red head from Brown's Subaru. When the windshield on my wife's car cracked, I asked her what the process to replace it would be and she said, USE SAFELITE, ASK FOR OEM GLASS, NO RECAL NECESSARY.

Guess what, its been a year, and no issues.

A fool thinks himself to be wise, but a wise man knows himself to be a fool.

 

William Shakespeare

 

 

Laughing at Oneself and with Others is Good for the Soul [emoji847]

How ironic.

Yeah, thanks for restating your opinion. I'm not impressed with your dominion or whatever.

 

The choice between aftermarket and OEM is one of balance on any car you buy. If your argument is simply blindly accept whatever a dealer tells you to do, then that's a respectable choice. But it's not an automatic one for me. With the aftermarket Pilkington glass that's on it now, I can already tell that the eyesight and LDW works great. You are basically suggesting that the refraction must be different enough on different types of glass that the calculation made by the stereo cameras would be materially off to miscalculate the distance between you and another car or fail to recognize lanes. It makes sense that on relatively new technology that the manufacturer would err on the side of extreme caution. A technical or semi technical one would be useful for discussion.

 

Oh, forgot to mention, the two dealers in town - neither do ANY glasswork. They send 100% of their business to safelite. They don't use OEM glass. They do a recalibration, but they do not use Carlex.

 

Your academic 'argument' for just following every thing the dealer says is basically "I think you should do it because you should do it" and does't really explain any reason why. I don't really care if you've posted a thousand times or two, or own the forum or whatever, your response isn't particularly helpful. Of course the Acura dealer will sell you a 250 dollar rotor, doesn't mean i care to buy it.

 

BTW, although I live in Portland now, I lived in Jax (NW St. Aug) for 20 yrs up until two years ago.

Well written. The Lead service advisor at the Subaru dealer that both me and Securityguy bought our cars from told me DIRECTLY NUMEROUS TIMES THEY DONT DO GLASS AND TO USE SAFELITE.

Yet a couple of guys here on this thread are swinging purses like 60 year old Russian ladies waiting at the bus stop.

I buy the cheapest "no name shit from the budget station" because it is the same shit as you get from the name brand stations. Gas is gas!

Lol.

Most fuel filters in todays cars do not need to be replaced. Unless you are having fuel system issues or hesitation...then I'd have the dealer diagnose and change only if necessary. Most cars go 100's of thousands of miles without replacing a FF.

Not exactly great advice. Most cars dont infact go 'hundreds of thousands' of miles without a fuel filter being replaced. Most cars dont go hundreds of thousands of miles, period.

A fuel filter is an important part of a car's fuel system and the filter's degradation over time will long term consequences for the fuel system as a whole.

As it were, on the Legacy, at least the H6, the fuel filter is built into the fuel pump assembly, so its not an easily serviceable item like some fuel filters. I wouldnt worry about it if the car isnt showing any symptoms of fuel delivery issues. Make sure to seek out quality fuel and not the cheapest no name shit from the budget station and make sure to give the car an 'italian tune up' every once in a while, and you will do what you can to keep your fuel system clean.