RustyRuu

Hardly ever is the ECU to blame.

 

What codes are you getting we will be able to trouble shoot further if we know.

If you drill the old one out and drill it straight, a grade 8 3/8 bolt and nut works perfectly fine

 

Glad someone else said it, literally every other manufacturer does it this way. No need to replace an entire spindle, when you just need a longer bolt and a nut after drilling yours out a bit

It will all bolt up. Depending on the tranny you are using you will need a certain spring and washer or else the shifter will sort of flop around. But it's something to work out after the swap and not a huge deal, where at in colorado are you? I have a couple.

Are you doing a manual swap?

Looks like some old aftermarket security hackery. Is anything going on currently with the vehicle, like only the key in the door works to unlock, not the remote? All the doors lock but the driver and you have to lock it manually?

Is the car still running?

What county are you in? They haven't ran dyno's or sniffed pipes where I'm at in almost a year. They just check codes and you pass.

 

You are going to want to get that fuel system cleaner almost all out before you try again. Could have been bad gas. You can try again for free within 25 days.

 

If you don't pass, it may be your cat. good news is cat prices are high right now and you can probably sell your bad one for close to what a new one would be.

 

Any check engine lights or pending codes?

What are you working with an h6 an h4?

 

What car do you have?

Year?

Model?

Engine?

Color? That is most important!

Fitment will be the easiest task.

They all have their own problem. The outback xt had turbo issuses the N/A cars had head gasket issues. The H6 had tranny issues.

 

Not a lot of knowledge to spread there were less of them so they had fewer issues. There has been a couple of struggles reported with head gasket issusez. I would look into if they came with multillayer steal ones or like the N/a h4 composite if you are real concerned.

If I were trying this in the car flat backed in a driveway; I would drop the exhaust at the header and bracket off the back of the tranny. I don't think you need to disassemble it further just let it dangle.

 

Then drop the back tranny subframe off. Its 4 14mm bolts I believe.

 

The shift linkage is 2 roll pins. You can smash them both out at once but be gentle and properly do one at a time

 

The rear housing seal is much easier to remove after the housing is pulled. punch the seal out from its rear side.

 

Just mangle the old seal out of the orifice without scratch anything too much.

 

Install new seal

 

Watch it leak instantly

 

Those seals always on these cars are always bad. Just check fluid frequently so you don't get any surprises.

The boot is the most pain, you have to pull the harness anf fish it out. Go to each plug and pull it anywhere it is attached pop it out. Then it should be 4 12mm.

 

Front and rear have a 10 mm or screw in the well that attaches it to the fender or quarter then it just pops out, after you detach it from the fender liner.

 

What are you doing?

At night since we have a lot of it this year, point the car at a wall/ garage hit the switch. If the lights dim it's the window regulator if they don't it's a switch.

To my knowledge its original hardware, doesn't seem like its been messed with before. Previous over ran it out of oil and I was wondering why and just found a dropped exhaust valve guide yesterday when I was going to put the head back on.

 

The markings are only on some wrist pins, I have a bucket at work I was going through, and without putting any through our parts washer I only found a hand full.

 

I need to steep up and buy a better micrometer tenths of a thousand would be rad to be able to see.

So only semi screwed since its a short block at this point, but after finding another couple of wrist pins laying around, the difference between a #1 pin and #2 pin is .001 or at max .002 if you measure it a bunch and trick yourself into believing it. Don't know the tolerances yet because I haven't had a chance to look it up.

The plan was to reuse the pistons but I'm using different rods am I skewed or can I do that?

 

Is that number just for piston fitment or does it include rods too?

This

It looks think I'm the first one going through it. I have one 1 and three 2's.

 

I don't remember any before either. Is hard to see. I'm running one through the parts washer to see if it will make it more visable.

What do the numbers on the wrist pins mean?

Again thank you to this community.

 

Like I said I'm in the salvage business, it would be nice to see an engine run before selling it, compression tests are just not enough sometimes.

 

It's too much work to send it to the dealer to get a key than to get a motor sent back.

 

I was just thinking there was a hack way to get these running.

 

I just want to sell reliable shit and take chance out of the whole thing

Thank you for all the input. Just curious what locksmiths do when they come to make a key for it, or when you go get a second chip key made. They pretty much can do it at any hardware store. Is there a code in the vin or something that might hint at what key will work with the immobilizer?

Is an 05 currently, couldnt get an 11 to start either both legacys. I am aware of an immobilizer but curious if there is a way around it?

Is it possible? I'm in the salvage business and ive had no luck, which says something about the chip key system.

 

Others are a little easier to pull off.

 

Tried pulling the ignition cylinder, arching the starter and spraying the intake with starter fluid and no go.

 

I know this could be a touchy subject so let me know either in a PM or here.

One of the best tranny builders in the country ZF design suggests against blast plates. I've been through plenty of. 5mt's, it happens. Most n/a even, they are fun so you just replace it and keep going