08SubieLegacy

Need to adjust my transmission shifter cable. Manual says to pull the exhaust pipe, exhaust shield, and then adjust the nut to adjust the cable. Is removing the exhausted pipe necessary?

 

Or, is there any way to get to it from inside the car (like pulling the shifter assembly out)?

 

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There's a good bit of debris on the transmission fluid dipstick. Pretty sure I have a transmission problem.

 

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I used a can of seafoam on the intake, the smoke out the tailpipe cleared up after that.

 

The car revs normally up to 4.5k if moving, it doesn't want to shift gears though.

 

Had a mechanic look at the car today, they think the people I got the transmission from gave me a bad transmission. I'm working on getting a refund for the transmission.

 

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Cleaned the MAF, seems to idle better. Drivability still sucks though.

 

I can rev up to 3500 rpm in neutral.

 

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I don't have any check engine lights. Weird.

 

I wish I did, might actually tell me something.

 

Will clean the MAF and report back.

 

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My car won't go over 20mph. It's difficult to even get to 20 mph. I thought my transmission went out, so I replaced it, and with the new transmission, I have the same problem.

 

I had the throttle body off, and noticed the inside of the intake had a pool of oil in it. I thought the problem may have been the PCV valve, so I removed it, it was all gunked up. No parts stores in the area had another one, so I cleaned the old one and reinstalled it. My car has been burning oil, so it's coming through the intake. How is it getting in the intake though? Could the oil have fouled a sensor, causing my car to not go above 20mph?

 

Car is a 2008 Legacy, 2.5 naturally aspirated engine. Automatic transmission.

 

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Is there a gasket for the transmission? For warranty purposes, I need to change the filter and gasket inside the transmission. Looks like it's just RTV, but would prefer a rubber gasket.

 

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Thanks for the input.

 

I'm going to use the Torque Converter from the new transmission. It's the same part number as my old one.

 

I'm also going to stick with OEM fluids.

 

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Not much help with automatics, but there is a rubber plug on the back, top of the block that I believe is used to get to the bolts on the torque convertor.

Thanks. Yeah, I was able to access that plug after I pulled the upper intake manifold off. Hoping I missed something and can access it with the manifold on. Would be easier to install the engine with it on.

 

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Anyone?

 

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I have a 2008 Legacy, 2.5 NA engine, 4eat auto transmission.

 

The car has 134k miles. Transmission failed, and needed replacement.

 

The CV axles were replaced 6 months ago with the HD Duralast axles from Autozone.

 

I got a used transmission from the salvage yard, has 64k miles on it.

 

My head gaskets were leaking badly, so I figured since the engine and transmission were going to be separated, I'd pull the engine too and fix the head gaskets.

 

I installed the new transmission today, have not reinstalled the engine yet.

 

So here are my questions:

 

1. The torque converter from the new transmission has some slight surface rust on it, so I think it was exposed to the elements. I think it is fine to use, since it has significantly less mileage than the original one for my car. Any reason not to use the torque converter that came with the transmission from the salvage yard?

 

2. Is Subaru branded transmission fluid necessary? I've always used the Subaru fluid before. Wondering if there is a cheaper, local option.

 

3. I know with new head gaskets, I can use the blue Subaru coolant, instead of the older green style. Do I need to use the Subaru branded stuff, or is there another coolant that can be used?

 

4. In order to unbolt the torque converter from the engine, I had to remove the upper intake manifold from the engine. Is that normal, or did I miss something and do something stupid and unnecessary?

 

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Well I haven't fixed anything yet causing my light to come on. My light actually went off in it's own and hasn't been on for more than a year.

 

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Thanks, I will try the solder fix before buying anything.

 

Thanks for the offer 08SpecB, but i'm in Kentucky.

 

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So the AirBag light in the dash comes on and stays on pretty consistently now. I'd like to fix this. Are there any common causes to the problem that I should check?

 

Also, it looks like the cheapest AirBag code reader I can find is $130 on Ebay. Does anyone have experience with a good AirBag code reader that they can recommend to me?

 

Car is a 2008 Legacy, with the 2.5 N/A engine, 108,000 miles.

 

Thanks!