superjoshism

I have mine one full turn from being cranked all the way in. i get a nice hiss depending on how hard i push the car. IIRC some had the preload even looser, but I think it doesnt affect performance? The BPV is supposed to open at the same psi regardless of the preload, I think

I have the T9033, which is essentially a Mach2 with the option to VTA.

I emailed GFB regarding the preload here's their response for your reading pleasure:

Hi Josh,

The spring pre-load for the BOV is un-related to boost pressure, so you don’t need to adjust the spring for different boost levels - the BOV will hold as much boost as you can throw at it no matter what the spring pre-load. The spring pre-load is related to the engine’s idle vacuum, so this is really a set-and-forget adjustment, which you only need to change if you do any mods that change your idle vacuum, such as cams.

 

Best regards,

Brett Turner B.E. (Mech)

Given that we have a stock BPV there is not much difference by upgrading. The main benefit is that the stock one can leak boost. An aftermarket one is a much needed upgrade as soon as you start pushing past stock boost levels. Heck it is even a good idea at stock levels. Once you get the factory one out you will see how cheap it appears to be.

This.

GFB claims that their BPV's help slightly reduce turbo lag because of their TMS system which essentially leaves a few psi in the intake tract. I have a GFB T9033 and it's a definite improvement over stock, but since my stock was leaking anyway I can't really attribute my better response to the BPV.

Mine went pop the other day too. My symptoms are strange, one side of the lumbar still seems to work... I've just set it all the way back for now. I have some quick links, just haven't had time to install them.

I remember reading another post on this thread about someone with a similar symptom (one side went bang, other seemed ok), so I'm hoping mine will be as simple as that!

Unless it's noticeably louder than stock I would just do the Turbosmart Kompact and save $164 over the GFB adjustable one if I was to do full recirc.

 

How much louder is your GFB set to full recirc than the Stock BPV?

I can't compare against anything because I haven't met any other local GenV owners with an aftermarket BPV.

My GFB is loud enough that I get people looking at me from the sidewalk, and the last time I drove next to one of my friends (who owns a V8 with a reasonably loud exhaust) he thought that my BPV was set on VTA

Still torn between two BPV hybrids:

 

I want a hybrid BPV that partially vents to atmosphere to get more sound. I can either get the Turbosmart Dualport that's 50/50 recric/vent for $175 or the GFB TMS Respons Adjustable BPV for $280.

 

I'd rather be on the safe side with the GFB BPV that I can customize the vent/recirc ratio.... but in all likelihood I'd have it at 60%recirc/40%vent.

 

Is paying $100 more for the GFB worth it to put only 10% more air recirculating?

I have the GFB installed. I installed mine out of necessity because my stock BPV was leaking. I run my GFB on full recirc and it's still plenty loud enough.

We use an Accessport for that, which also lets our cars to be tuned pretty easily. JDM types can get one through Prova.

 

http://www.cobbtuning.com/cobbprova-accessport-at-tsukuba-hyper-meeting-2010/

Yeah I must admit, I'm jealous of the Accessport. I haven't been able to find an equivalent for AUDM models

We don't f around. We go flat out 100 powah all the time.

Haha fair enough. I like being able to switch maps

Factory boost is 8 or 12 psi depending on what gear you are in. So its not terribly leaky on the stock tune. Stage 1 and its utterly junk.

 

Lower wgdc means the wastegate is closed less, I.e open more ie you turbo is more efficient and generating less heat and will carry boost to higher revs. If your bpv is leaking then it would require a much higher wgdc to maintain the same boost pressure.

 

If you had a terribly leaky BPV, and a custom tune that compensated for it with increased wgdc target, Then yes, fixing tthe valve may make you overboost.

 

Cobb OTS stage 1 maps have no such problem.

Do USDM guys get Si-Drive? We have it here in Australia.

I can select between 3 maps on the fly using Si-Drive. Stage 1 I can change between 8psi, 13psi, and 16psi (19psi in 1st and 2nd gear) maps as I drive. It's fun surprising people at traffic lights

Hi there, At the moment I am looking at getting a 24mm front sway bar and also the 22mm rear sway bar by whiteline, going onto a 2010 subaru liberty gt manual, located in Australia I am , sydney, I was wondering whats the go in terms of simplicity of the install of these bar? I am unsure whether to purchase and get everything done through a shop or whether to do install on the weekend with my dad whos mechanically minded.

 

Any experience here with installing of the white line bars? how long it take roughly, is it simple or complicated ect.

Another Aussie here with the exact same setup.

Replace your endlinks while you're under there. I have Kartboy front and rear endlinks. If you get them, GET THE SPACER KIT FOR THE FRONT. I didn't initially and chopped out the front end link bushes in less than 5,000km...

I have both my bars set on the hardest setting. I first had the rear on medium but the car understeered too much for my liking, I enjoy it much more with both of them on hard.

Everyone is correct regarding the front sway bar, the shop that did mine dropped the steering rack to get it in from memory.

http://www.gfb.com.au/products/blow-off-and-diverter-valves/respons-tms/respons-tms-t9033-adjustable-bias-venting-diverter-valve-bov-by-gfb

I have this installed on my GT in the STOCK location, completely stock fit, nothing needed to change.

I have mine set on 100% recirc, still get plenty of sound

Expecting more noise when I do the milk bottle delete too