bigfatdaddy

Making progress. I've got the driver seat tilted back and I am looking at the connectors for the seat. There are six.

Here is a link to what that looks like:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/help-unhooking-wires-under-driver-seat-280052.html

My pic looks exactly like his.

I may not have to remove the seat since I can pry the cover off the inside rocker panel with the seat tilted back enough to remove the old rusty fuel door latch mechanism and to thread in the new cable (I hope).

I was able to clean out under the drivers seat. Found a rusty 5c coin and a couple of chocolate wrappers. Waiting for my black touch up paint to dry a bit on the front seat brackets and bolts. They were very rusty.

Edited to add info:

Diagram from Subaru Parts Dept http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/diagram.JPG

Videos:

#1 The two ends of new part 4th gen Subaru Legacy fuel door cable. The drivers door end has been rust proofed in advance. The pin does not seem to pull in far enough when pulled from the release lever? I have to study it more.

#2 Showing the end of the fuel door release cable at the drivers seat end. This is a Fourth Gen Legacy Wagon 2007.

#3 The end of the fuel door release cable at the drivers seat end - continued

#4 Some details of the fuel door release cable marking and mounting clips.

I now have the back seat completely out and the side cushion. Now will remove the drivers seat carefully.

Thanks for your interest. I have not found this procedure described in detail on the forum yet for Fourth Gen.

George

Perfect. Thank you!

So far, I have about three hours invested. My garage is full of Subaru pieces. I still have to remove the front driver's seat and probably the rear seat back to make things easier.

The side wall panel I removed is still taking up space in the car, trapped by the seat belt. I can remove it if I take off the bottom rear passenger seat belt so it and the side bolster can be removed from the car also.

I think I will have a beer.

I am not complaining but this is not a simple job.

G

 

 

http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/today3.JPG

 

 

http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/today4.JPG

 

 

http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/today5.JPG

 

Video of the release cable and actuator, not yet installed in the car

K Thanks. Is the seat heavy to lift out? I am an old guy with a bad back.

http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/latch-release.JPG

 

 

Not sure how to access this end of the cable. I've removed the cover but the carpet covered white channel is in the way, as is the front seat to some extent. Do I need to take the seat out? Thanks.

http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/inside-sm.JPG

 

I am inside. Thanks for the hints and suggestions!

 

The foam blocks were stuffed into the space where the release cable ends.

 

The difficulty for me was freeing up the side bolster at the top to get it out of the way.

 

I can see the black fuel release cable passing over the fuel door and doubling back.

 

G

http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/door1.JPG

 

My gas door cover won't stay closed. I realize that this is better than having it stay locked closed. I can still drive the car and I have all the Subaru parts to replace the release cable from end to end.

 

 

http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/door2.JPG

 

 

The pin at the door never comes out, or it is broken off. I read here on the forum that others have trouble with the pin and it is recommended to remove a millimeter or so. I don't have that problem.

 

 

http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/door3.JPG

 

 

 

The door end of the cable is pretty ugly but it was working until recently. Road salt really messes this part of the car and I'd love to get the front seat out to clean up the rust. I think I can figure out removing enough of the trim to get at the bolt that I can't yet see because of the carpet.

 

The rear bolt will be probably well rusted and will break off. I have a complete new assembly and cable ready to go back in. The other (front) fastening bolt is already broken off.

 

 

 

http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/door4.JPG

 

 

I got the rear seat bottom out by pulling up hard on the front bottom. You can see the two white clips. The fuel door cable (black) can be seen snaking through clips from the passenger side to driver. This part will be easy to do. The two ends are the challenge.

 

 

 

http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/door5.JPG

 

 

Mine is an 07 wagon. I got this far without breaking anything.

 

I can't figure out how to get off the panel that covers the back of the fuel door. I need to get there to replace the release cable.

 

I'd love to get the front drivers seat out of the car but I have never done that.

 

Maybe someone has done a walkthru about how to service the fuel door release cable? I searched! Any help or advice appreciated. Thanks!

 

 

George in Lions Head

Any other guidance? Thanks

Good to know about the rubber bushings. Can I access them if I lift the console cover?

I know that we are supposed to like to clutch and shift. That's why we like these cars. As I get older maybe I am fussier and I don't have the strength I once had, but the comparison with my Focus made me ask. The Focus has as well as the "softer" clutch, a really nice action on the 5-speed. The Subie feels like the linkage is not as tight. The Focus is also 6 years newer and 200K less km.

I accept that clutch pedal pressure is not adjustable. Thanks for the insight.

Electric cars and automatics don't have this problem.

Is there is a way to adjust the force required to push my clutch pedal?

Is there a spec or test for what is "normal"?

My left leg doesn't like driving stop and go with my Legacy 07 manual wagon. My other car is a Focus 12 manual and it takes a lot less force on the pedal.

Maybe this has been discussed and I am using the wrong search terms?

Thanks

George