Because Racecar

Not on another site, but a heck of a deal.

 

New Nameless DP $685 Shipped.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5328017&postcount=10

helluva deal right there!

Do aftermarket 18's still fit around them? I'd imagine that's a pretty tight fit if they do.

As I've found...some. The stockers only fit when I removed the balancing weights from the rim. I will have to be very selective in my wheels choices...

No kidding! I have some other wheels, but I tried to put them on and they didn't clear the calipers. Curses. So those will be up for sale. Sigh.

Also, now there's a clunk. Possibly related to the calipers, or the new 20mm rear sway. This needs investigating.

Heh. It gets dark early and stays dark late, but here ya go!

http://i.imgur.com/vnxT1p9h.jpg

For those keeping score, the car is drivable. The pedal still doesn't have really solid feel. I can still kick off the ABS, and the car definitely stops. Quickly.

Going to try bleeding again tomorrow. Hope I kicked any air left out to the lines.

I did, but last night realized my mistake. I bled the rears until the fluid was cleared out, then I bled the fronts. I had no pedal pressure, and assumed it was the newly installed empty calipers, so I rebled the fronts, but assumed the rears were OK. Turns out I did not take into account Subaru's crossed brake system. The air from the replaced hard line was drawn into the rear left line at some point. I bled the rear enough to get clear fluid, but the air hadn't reached the bleeder, or was stuck in the ABS block. Bleeding the fronts after that did not move it out that way, either.

So last night I did a tedious semi-gravity bleed, which is marginally effective on those front calipers, but still works great on the rears. After a while I had almost a whole brake line length of air cone out the rear left. Definitely enough to make a squishy pedal. Was too late to start the car up and see how the pedal felt last night, but this evening I'll report back.

Bleed nipple on the top or bottom of the caliper?

Dual bleeders, both pointed up.

And how did that work for you? Lol. Not all systems are plumbed the same. I believe you also need to cycle the ABS pump to clear any air that may have entered it.

 

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On every car I've ever owned up to this one? Perfectly. Why would I have any reason to believe that this one car is different from the other 31 cars I've owned and bled brakes on? None, I'd say. And shut up, yes, I have a condition.

You should have started with the closest to the hydraulic pump and worked back. Fr Fl rr rl.

 

Edited

 

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I've never heard that, always heard start furthest from the hydraulics.

Well, this is turning into the brake kit install from hell. There are a couple minor issues, those we can cover later if we can solve the major issue. I got the calipers installed, finally bled, no air in the lines (though I could try the rears again) but I have almost no brake pedal pressure. The car will come to a stop, but the pedal is on the floor and its not locking up the wheels.

This is a 4 piston kit, supposed to work with the stock master on a WRX. Are those bigger than ours? Do I need a prop valve to balance the f/r pressure? I may be taking the kit off and trying to resell it at this point, I'm out of ideas for the Subaru. Definitely not as easy to solve as the Vette...

Help...

Yeap, my fears were validated when I mated up the downpipe to the turbo, it won't fit

 

(Real reason I don't want two money pits)

Wait, what am I lookin' at??

I feel ya. I've got a list of other parts going on, and a tune is not in my future until post-winter, so the DP is staying in the box until warmer weather (and better tires). Will be interesting to see if this is a design flaw that needs addressed by Nameless. Is this the third one that's been installed?

Just to be clear, I didn't actually recommend anything.

Hah! Nicely done.

2010 LGT, also a 2014 XV for the wife.

Age: 36

Gender: Dude

Location: Dayton, OH

Mileage: 66k

Occupation: Physicist (yes, a real one)

Mods:

Shifter bits so far.

yes. all coilovers with stiffer springs on lowered cars means less suspension travel. less travel means less capable of dealing with bad roads and foul conditions. if you know you will be in these conditions often, it is better to avoid coilovers unless you like frequent rebuilds.

 

Having said this KWv3's are ok in my book as entry level coils.

So the same goes for Konis on lowering springs, then? If you have coilovers and don't slam the car, then not quite the same issue of longevity that you refer to?

any coilover will be universally worse at this than a fixed perch strut and spring.

 

just get konis

True of all coilovers, even something like a KWv3?

No one is criticizing you for upgrading your sway bar on a family sedan ("because racecar" is really a joke, right?). It's just being pointed out that there are other upgrades that have a larger effect on the amount of grip (both more and less) your car has access to.

Excuse me?!?!

I have 18x9+40 with 255/40 on lower springs, H&R. You could do that size rim with that offset or a +45 offset with a 245/40 tire, possibly a 245/45, and be fine.

Did you have to do anything to your fenders or liners? I found an 18x9 +40 wheel that I really like.

yep. this right here. - http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=818/CA=25

 

since you use it in conjunction with konis, you get the best of both worlds. ride height adjustability, and a quality cost effective shock. the best part is GC uses standard size coilover springs, so if you want more or less stiff, a change of spring is dirt cheap and available from a bunch of great makes like hyperco, swift and eibach.

Color me officially interested. I'm a big fan of GC from way back. What is your thoughts on this system? It could be a very nice option for what I want. Konis would be great. What are they valves at, do we know? Never bought Konis before. 9k/8k spring rates?