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Subisnob

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Posts posted by Subisnob

  1. hahaha. yeah right. I can grab pretty much anything that is too hot for others but it's the backside of my hands that the heat hits. That is a sensitive area for all of us.

     

    I can grab the headlights, that doesn't burn me, but the butyl can because it sticks to you like glue and traps in the heat.

    I wear nitrile gloves and then rubber palmed gardening gloves over top of them. Keeps good insulation.

  2. puke... :(

     

     

    OP:

    I put my headlights about 15ft away but directly in front of my 155kBTU Salamander for about 5-8min and then rotated them and then again for another 5-8min.

     

    I was able to work on them while they stayed heated. I kept a sweatshirt and gloves on so to not burn my arms or hands. This has worked very well for me over the years. yes i was sweating my arse off but it's brief.

     

    Hope that helps others. ;)

  3. My APPS covers both

     

    http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc86/rfoker/Subi/20150915_190040_zpspli8gx3d.jpg~original

     

    and I was thinking of my wife's being grayed out while she's driving.

     

    ..and that's a generic 8" tablet screen protector I have used since Day-1.

     

    Also, the Open sofware for my unit is Fujitsu-ten

     

    http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc86/rfoker/Subi/20150915_190150_zpshojugkka.jpg~original

  4. Nope, the Nav is a Futjisu ten while the regular is Clarion. Plus the screens are different sizes on both. Not aplug and play solution

     

    I think you are misunderstanding me. You are comparing the Base trim radio and Nav unit I was not. Premium trim comes with the exact same radio unit that Limited w/Nav does. The only thing missing is this: SD Software

     

    On my unit, I can see Navigation options, they are just grayed out.

     

    http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc86/rfoker/RadioComp_zpsc6usu5d3.jpg~original

  5. The OEM Nav I thought is merely a separate box that can plug into our existing radio's. I don't think it's integrated like the other Subaru models with the Clarion units.

    This would mean we can buy the Nav box, and plug it in.

     

    I had an Avic that I installed hacked software to remove crappy features, speed up boot time and allow other various features. It was still deathly slow on boot up and when navigating around.

    It is still the best aftermarket unit because of its abilities.

  6. I do 5K intervals on all my cars. I got six so it is mainly for ease. It's easily divisible even after 100K. For my 3.6 Subaru I did it at 3K and 6.5K and once more at 10K. Then in with my schedule.

     

    Wifey knows to give me a heads up when she is getting close.

     

    YUP! Same here. Super easy to know that when your coming up on 30k or 45k an oil change is needed. Plus, it's easy to know when your last oil change was for oil adding/checking. If I happen to go over by 1kmi, well, the next oil change will only have 4kmi on it to reset my schedule.

     

     

    I think we are all getting off track tho from original post. ;)

  7. I wonder if disabling the DRLs would be frowned upon in the insurance industry... If I disable mine and I get into an accident, they find the DRLs disabled, would that cause an issue... ?

     

    If they determined that it could have helped the situation then yes, not for pay out but for retaining you as a customer They would basically drop you and back charge you for the savings they gave you for that safety feature.

     

    You could call them up and state you no longer have DRL if you are really worried about it. It's probably a difference of $6/mo or something.

    I disabled mine. Don't really care either way.

    I've diabled all of my prior GM model ABS brakes because they were overly sensitive for my aggressive behavior but never got into a major accident for them to verify.

    You would have to get into a fatal or near fatal accident for them to check for that type of stuff.

  8. You also need to read both sides of the dipstick. The two sides will likely indicate slightly different levels, and the lower is the one to use (per Subaru). I presume that this discrepancy is due to the dipstick entering the oil sump at a very shallow angle. This is also why you should check oil level while parked on a dead-level surface.

     

     

    Exactly! I always read both sides, it's a must. I believe the discrepancies are caused by a meniscus effect due to surface tension.

     

    Also, I check my oil in the same spot all the time, so even if it's not perfectly level I have good recordable data to review where as measuring in different areas or places can skew readings. Where I park my car is where the oil gets changed and level gets checked. I know that's not possible for most people so best bet is to go to a shopping center parking lot and park where you think a cart cannot roll when left untouched. Concrete pads are usually nice and level too.

     

    I just added 1/2qt after 2700miles into my oil change.

  9. Well...just finished up installing my 19mm bar. Bought a set of ramps and made life soooo much easier! Took me about 45 minutes but all went without a hiccup.

     

    I thought you already had a bar installed?? I must be thinking of someone else.

     

    19mm is huge improvement. Wait until you start hitting the corners. Much tighter.;)

  10. Yup, ordered from my local dealer, had it in two days, picked up, no shipping (and cheaper since no shipping).

     

    Need to lock myself in the garage one day this weekend to do the rear bar on mine and brakes on the Outback.

     

    Shipping vs tax(6% in MA?). It's a wash depending how much you paid.

     

    Our Vendor sells the 19mm Swaybar kits for $98

     

    and they offer $4.95 shipping if order is over $99, so throw in some Subaru floor mat style coasters for $5 and you'll actually save. Otherwise shipping is $13.20

     

    Total for above: $108.60 shipped;)

     

    Regardless. It's always good to support your local community whenever possible!

  11. mod here are not friendly like most other forums i been on, I have atleast 10k post to date combine on other forum. Strange that they'll pull it on you without no warning... it's cold...

     

    I disagree. Mods are for the most part fair here. Warning generally comes after to not allow it to happen again.

    I would say that this thread is fine granted there are no intentionally sponsored materials by non vendors. You would essentially be sponsoring yourself rather than the forum which is not fair.

     

    Stating that you bought something from a random shop and you installed and like is fine, but doing a complete advertisement to draw people in to a Company that does not support this forum(non vendor) is a totally different story. I'm not debating the specifics on what happened, just stating the general practice.

    I've seen it several times where a company will provide either free or heavily discounted product(s) to a member for a forum product review in hopes that it will draw in customers. They do this to avoid forum vendor fees.

    I would hope that everyone would support and understand this and that it's not fair to Vendors who are actively supporting the forum that you are a member of.

     

    I've done product sponsored review threads, but only to forum sponsors!

    Maybe PM an Admin and ask for a special request with a small donation from the company next time. Who knows...;)

  12. I just changed my wife's oil in her 2015 Forester 2.5i. Her low oil light illuminated on her way home from work. Oil level was between add and edge of dipstick after sitting for 2hrs. I'm estimating 1.25qts low. Assuming low to full is 1qt.

     

    Include your cylinders(if not in your signature/profile): 4cyl 2.5i

    Odometer: 10,400

    miles driven between: 5,000

    Quarts added: 1.25

    driving style (easy, moderate, aggressive): Easy / All highway

    Full engine operating temp (sometimes, usually, almost always): Almost Always

  13. I hope you pressure wash the brushes before running all over your paint. Guys like me clean their wheels, lower rockers and inner wheel wells on our trucks which puts dirt and rocks all in them.

     

    I pressure wash before AND after btw. I do think about the guy after, but most don't care. Doesn't gurantee the brushes are clean enough though.

     

    My wife has an Unlimited pas to local outfit.They have high pressure no touch car washes. $40/mo as many times as she wants. They hand dry and tire shine.

  14. Was this tongue in cheek? The end links didn't seem to have anything in the other side. Not that I could tell. Tighter tught up no problem.

     

    Bar is installed. Loving it.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    No, the endlinks have a hex provision in the end of the bolt head on the nut side. This is typical for endlinks and tierod ends. It'seither a male or a female hex provision. This allows you to loosen up and tighten the tierod without the ball spinning in its socket.

    If you have pressure on it, then it probably won't spin but that could mean it won't get tightened enough. Not always, but sometimes.

     

    On all 3 swaybar installs, at least one of the endlink rods spun in its socket and I had to use the hex key.

  15. I have hope. This is a perfect time to bust out those selfie sticks. It does not have to be the whole car, can be part of the car, just show movement. Gopro's can also be used. I'll get one ready, but come on people! Step it up!

     

    I have a camera that records my driving. I can capture a frame if that's what you are looking for. It'd only be a hood shot.:confused:

  16. thanks for the feedback. I recall reading that earlier about stripping them etc.

     

    Aren't there 6 bolts total? Two [12mm] on each bushing and 1 14mm on each endlink?

     

    when you say the top bolts do you mean the 14mm endlinks or the 12mm top bushing bolts?

     

    As stated, the bracket bolts is what I was referring to.

    I would recommend installing the endlinks last. They will put pressure on the bushing bolts if you do them first. Wait until the bar is completely bolted up by it's brackets and then do the end links.

     

    Also, you will need a hex wrench to fit inside the endlink so it doesn't spin when you remove/replace the nut.;)

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