pinesol
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Posts posted by pinesol
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I may be in for a set with v-band flange. Ideally there would be a v-band -> vf54 adapter, but that may make a stock-location j-pipe not fit.
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42072AJ070 Is the correct part number for my 10 LGT. I didn't dremel the car to get the retaining ring out, but rather just used a screwdriver and gave the car a mild pry against the retaining bracket. The metal just above the bracket bent pretty easily then it was easy to get out.
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Except that yes, they do? Go to their website, click on the "About Us" link at the bottom and it gives the number as 1-608-661-1376 - maybe that's not a technical support number? (not sure - haven't called - I have purchased a bunch of stuff from them over the years (the side of my toolbox is covered with rockauto magnets) - haven't called, but have emailed with issues before with good results when something wasn't quite what it was supposed to be.
I suppose I misspoke. I meant they do not have a customer support phone number. Their own wording here "RockAuto is a completely online company. We do not have a customer service phone number to provide assistance over the phone." In this case it means that they offer no pre-purchase fitment support on any products they offer for sale. If you buy something and it doesn't fit then they take things back no questions asked, though. All of this aside, I'm a big fan of RockAuto.
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If there is a NAPA parts near you, they have a number of options listed, and the images show the correct 2 pin connector. For Rockauto, have you called them or are you just going off the website? there's a good chance (since the fans they list which all show 4 pin plugs are indicated as being for 2005-2014) the images are a generic photo (for the connectors) and the fans are correct (one has a heart next to it indicating it's a popular product, which I wouldn't think would happen if everyone that bought it had to return it!)
You actually can't call Rockauto. There is no one to call - they don't even publish a number.
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so...what happened
That's a complicated question, haha. I started with the timing belt in Feb 2020 then it snowballed to ARP head studs, head work including cleaning, new guides and seals, pressure test and several new valves, downpipe (GTeaser's prerun Nameless), Verticooler, Koyo rad, upgraded swaybar, DW fuel pump, cyl 4 cooling mod, cdv delete, HDSS clutch, Optima battery with ALT-S booster, TSK3, Hardrace front engine mount, upgraded fork and pivot, and upgraded rear diff mount. I also replaced a huge amount of OE stuff: rusty hardware, new coils, a brand new VF54 turbo, the alternator, the starter, fuel filter, o2 sensors and a bunch of other suspect stuff.
Ultimately I am glad that I went overboard and decided to do the head studs because it uncovered something wrong in cylinder 3, which was the impetus for some of that other work. Pictures included of what I found when I opened it up. https://imgur.com/TAWNuJP https://imgur.com/7x80Hu5
All of that obviously wouldn't have taken 2 years, but just prior to starting I minorly wrecked the car so motivation was low. On top of that, my S2000 and my wife's 14 Outback 3.6R continue to work basically flawlessly so I didn't have much sense of urgency. I recently found replacement driver's side doors and fender, so when it is all back together it should be looking pretty good again.
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I'm assuming you mean the pitch stop, the one that bolts to the firewall and the top of the bellhousing on the transmission? If so, now inspect the transmission crossmember mount, you may find it's torn.
There is no pitch stop on these cars.
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I finally got my car running again after just shy of 2 years downtime. So many upgrades and maintenance things done during that time, but sheesh it has been a long time. Bit more work before I can drive it, though.
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If your engine mounts were bad, you should also replace both of the transmission mounts. If either bushing sleeve has play in the pitch stop, chuck it.
These cars do not have pitch stops.
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I went overkill and replaced everything with new when I did my clutch, so take this list with a grain of salt: New stock exedy flywheel, flywheel bolts, solid clutch fork, billet pivot ball, and trans snout repair kit (for the throw out bearing).
Engine out is the best time for rear main seal, FSB, FSB bushings/lube, trans fluid drain/fill, downpipe, wastegate porting, turbo coolant lines, spark plugs, engine mount inspection, starter gear lube, engine bay cleaning, etc..... its a slippery slope.
If I had to pick one thing to do during the clutch job, I'd say either the clutch fork or the snout repair kit. If your bearing is already making noise, I'd make the snout kit a must.
I did what dgoodhue said for timing parts, the parts I listed above (plus FSB, spark plugs, turbo coolant lines, trans fluid and subaru coolant, and assorted exhaust gaskets), and clutch for less than 1k. Borrowed a hoist from a friend and took about 8 hours of labor by myself.
Sorry for asking in here, but I'm having trouble finding a definitive answer. I have read in multiple places that the spring included on the TSK3 TOB should be removed prior to install if using an upgraded clutch fork. Thoughts? Thanks!
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I had somewhat similar problems that I wasn't sure were problems prior to tearing my engine apart recently. My compression numbers were good, but DAM would drop occasionally; I didn't think too much of it. My plan was to pull the heads off to do head studs when I did my timing belt, but once I got the heads off it was clear that I had some actual issues. Burned valves, likely due to bad valve seals and just a ton of gross carbon/sand-like stuff on the piston. That said, the cylinder walls were in really good shape and it all cleaned off pretty easily, as you can see by the after picture.
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Finally, success!
I basically felt like I was being too hard on it Friday. Then I caught a video on NASIOC of a guy using a meat cleaver and one insanely hard wack to separate it. You can get berated for basically no reason on NASIOC and the replies were mostly positive, so I decided to just really go to town on it using a set of screwdrivers as chisels and it eventually let loose, then it was just a matter of prying it and wiggling it the rest of the way.
I may do a build thread. It'll take a long time probably, but I have GTeaser's pre-production Nameless DP, ARP head studs and gaskets, new timing set and water pump, STi t-stat, cyl 4 cooling mod, new cam and crank seals, front sway bar, TSK3 and Torque Solution clutch fork/pivot as well as a number of other things already stockpiled. I believe I'm also going to pick up an ACT HDSS, IAG AOS, and aluminum rad while it is down.... depending on how long the work takes (and thus how much money I have time to accrue).
Thanks!
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I do have a load leveler, but haven't been able to get it to the point where it is helping since it is so stuck to the transmission.
It's weird. I've separated engines from transmissions before, but have never had this much trouble. I gave up for the day but will get back to it tomorrow hopefully.
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Hi Everyone,
I am in the midst of removing the engine for timing belt replacement, head studs, new downpipe, new seals, and a bunch of other things. I'm to the point where everything is disconnected, the turbo/manifold and exhaust are off, and all bellhousing bolts are removed, with the exception of the 2 nuts which are loose but still there so it doesn't fall when it inevitably lets loose.
All of that said, I straight up can not get it to separate. I've tried cranking on it with a pry bar against the subframe near the oil pan, hitting the bellhousing, shaking the engine vigorously back and forward and side to side, lifting up and down to varying degrees, and hammering some tools between the engine and trans at the top. All to no avail. Anyone have any other suggestions? How high should I be lifting this thing to give myself the best chances? I think I'll probably pick up a set of varying thickness chisels left to my own devices and see if they'll hammer in easier than the previous tools I was trying to use.
Thanks!
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It's not cheap, but if everything else for the swap is just stock parts other than possibly the shifter, you will still majorly cut down on the widely-accepted 10k price for a complete conversion.
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Where were you able to find black controls?
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Hrmm it's weird too. The part number for just the pinion that I linked above shows G/R 3.545 but the full part number for the entire diff 27011AB320 shows 3.90. I am having major trouble finding/verifying the transfer reduction gear of the 2015+ sti. The shop that specializes in this kind of stuff is probably right, though.
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This is confusing to me too. Subaru's parts website shows 3.545 in 2015+ as well. As seen here. Flatironstuning shows 2007-2018 STI rear ends also being 3.545 here. It seems like we would need to swap to an earlier model WRX R160 to get the proper 3.545 rear end with a modern STI transmission using 1.1:1 transfer gears. Or use an older transmission with 1:1 transfer gear and find a 3.90 rear end.
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I don't have any advice, but my car does this also and it is very annoying.
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I replaced pcv and maf with OEM parts and installed the Perrin intercooler coupler. My original pcv was toast. No rattle to it at all and complete airflow one way with a small amount the other way. Lots of oil in the OEM coupler.
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woah, there's another 5th gen in richmond? I've only seen 4th gens around
There's at least me and Dick Thomas in Richmond as well. 3 5th gen LGTs that I'm aware of =)
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Id have to agree with the other son the shift stop not doing much as well. Get the Boomba short shift after plate. It made a huge difference in shortening the shift throws and unlike the other brands, the Boomba version is more similar to original plate in that it is counterweighted.
I have all of the various shifter mods including bushing, Boomba shift adapter, and shifter stop. The biggest improvement by far came from a Raceseng weighted shift knob. Majorly recommended.
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Just ordered VLED 5k headlights. Very excited.
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Off work early, beautiful weather, and a filthy car = wash time!
Looks so good clean.
And so it ends.
in Fifth Generation Legacy (2010 - 2014 )
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Fwiw your Nameless downpipe and GFB BOV live on in my car.