mikecsti

I should of gave a little more detail. I did not check it with a voltage meter. I will later when I get home. I have a Bluetooth that is plugged in to the accessory port and it says the voltage. So I know it reads a little now that at the battery. Battery connects are tight and all cleaned because I just did that when I did the starter. I know when the car started I'm getting the 14.2 to 14.5 voltages out of the port. If I had time I was going to connect my jump pack this morning but I was so pissed I was like f.. it. Maybe I'm over thinking it and its the battery going.

I have a 2000 Subaru legacy L wagon with a 5 speed. I was having a starting issue some times. I would turn the key and I would hear the relay click and turn the key and nothing. The voltage at the batter was 12.0 to 12.2. Some times I would hear a wine as it started/grid. So I new it was the starter. Plus it would have a problems starting in the morning, when it was dark or at night. It seemed to be fine during the day. Got a new starter and installed it and cleaned all the terminals. Started right up and starts faster then ever before. I guess the start was weak also. That was a week ago. and has been starting fine. I went out this morning to start he car. Cold and dark out. turn the key and I get a click click click, like a dead battery sound. different then before. I checked the voltage and it was 12.0 and then I turned on the heads and other lights and everything was bright and fine. Tried it 4 time and the same thing. Had to go to work so just got a ride. What would it be now? The car runs fine and has no warning lights on. Alternator was replayed 3 years ago, about 12k battery was replayed 5 years ago, about 20k stater replaced a week ago, 200 miles any help would be great, thanks

Okay on the window, but has anybody seen these other items happen? I did put a battery in the car last summer and the car was fine after that. Ow and the remote started stopped working again today. I will see if any codes came back again.

I'm just wondering if others have any of these problems. I have a 15 legacy prem. with eyesight. It came with auto remote start from Subaru. .62k on on the clock. The remote stopped working, I changed the battery and tried the backup key still nothing. Then the remote/key fob works and dose not. Same thing changed battery. And this happened twice. started the car with the key, all the doors unlocked, closed drivers door, then open and closed rear door and the car locks all doors when engines running. That should never happen. Plus the fuel gauge works fine and other time it just flips out and goes up and down until you restart the car. Also the passenger window switch dose not work from drivers door now.I had the car scanned for codes and cleared them it had 48 codes all saying lost communication with an item or errors, from brakes, body controls, eyesight, tcm, ecu and so on. The warning lights never came on at all. Once I had the codes cleared the remote start is working fine again. Other items still have the problem. I was told the car had a stroke and sell it asap!. I d have pictures of all the codes. Looking for some input here. Its out of warranty now. thanks

Thanks, got it, it was the speakers, pulled the door and tested the wires and it was getting power. connected another speaker and it was fine. So I replaced all four speaker. I never heard of two speakers going at the same time but they did.

The rear speakers are dead, no sound at all. it's all oem. The front spears works but the front driver speaker just started going in and out. It's random and not all the time. Would it make cents that both rear speaker blow at the same time? is there a fuse for just the rear speakers.

I'll check the grounds in NY here, but the car never saw winter it looks like for its life really. no rust or anything. It's a duralast alternator 90am. I did test it again with everything running and my meter still said 13.95 to 14.10 volts.

Back story 142k I changed the alternator 8 months ago because it dead. The battery is 2 years old. I checked the voltage and it seems to all be good once I changed the alternator. but in that past two days it just started doing this. At idle with the park lights on warming up the car everything seems fine, I put on the blower fan and when the cooling fans cycle there is a crazy drop in voltage in the system, like the the whole dash interior lights turn off and come back on. Its only like two seconds but it's not good. I have not checked it with my voltage meter yet. I was thinking one or both of the cooling fan motors are going because there drawing crazy voltage on the system. I'm I right? has anybody had this problem before? thanks