turboconcepts

Robert, this sounds like the BOV , has failed ! or the vacuum line source maybe damaged .. causing the flutter noise [ AKA turbocharger surging ] Radial play or up & down seems to be ok , However in & out play [ axial play] is main issues with failed bov system .. resulting in thrust failure , there should be no play in & out . Also when turbo starting to fail smoking or oil burning will arise . The oil residue in compressor side is due to crankcase or pcv .. Subaru has problems with crankcase ventilation overtime . A restricted exhaust can cause low boost , along with improper ventilation by restricting the oil return draining .

Suggest

1. Clean inlet

2. Check BOV & VACUUM LINE .. Use a vacuum pump to test BOV is working ,, must hold vacuum

3. Check turbo in & out play [ if none present ] Then proceed !

4. Check back pressure in exhaust [ aka cat ] not clogged

5. If all above good , then test drive see boost level

6. Any above may cause premature failure of turbo

7. Replace turbo ! with above checked or replaced !

Nick

Turbo Concepts

Not to say you can't do it, but there's a good chance you'll make a mistake and end up at square 1 again. The cartridge needs to be clocked and torqued right, and the actuator needs to be adjusted right -- assuming that the parts you dont' replace are good! Then need to properly prime the cartridge prior to fire-up. More shops than you think can't even install the turbo correctly, let alone replace the cartridge! Best to have your turbo properly rebuilt or exchange for a complete rebuild, AND replace your oiling system for sure! That banjo screen might not have been "removed" if you know what I mean

That oily intake is typical for the high mileage, from recirculation. Here's link to our rebuild for this unit, or rebuild service is $425 with 3-day turnaround with all new internals (not incl shipping time).

http://turboconcepts.net/cars/subaru-legacy-2-5l-sku-34083/

best of luck

My 05 xt outback VF40 turbo is at 205K. I have the motor out and when I took the turbo off, I noticed the intake boot was loose and oily. I am rebuilding the motor, due to a bent valve (user error at belt replacement time) and the fact that the motor is out. I am planning to rebuild the turbo, just because. After reading this entire thread, I feel very lucky. There was no screen in the banjo fitting. It must have been removed by the previous owner.

 

Does anyone have experience with Rotomaster? They have a cartridge replacement available at an attractive price. I have not opened up the turbo yet, but with the oil blow by I found, the cartridge assembly seems the best way to go. I am happy with the stock power and reliability.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5784846&cc=1430735&jsn=444

I have the replacement turbo in hand and will install it in the coming days - my question was about whether a turbo with loose bearings that has not suffered a *catastrophic* failure poses a risk to the short block.

 

Where does the metail inthe oil come from? Turbo shaft bearing material making it down into the sump through the oil return line? Or bits of broken blade going into the cylinders via the air intake?

Could be rod bearings, but if your turbo has a radial play (side to side wobble) that means that it's on its out. When it's starved of oil and you lose the oil pressure bubble in the turbo then metal makes contact with metal, could be shaft against journal bearings, journal bearings against bore, thrust collar against thrust bearing, etc, either way it will gall and you'll lose material, metal particles then start clogging the oil passages and causing abrasion from the particulate (think sand paper), thus further decreasing the lubricity and causing more wobble, until the wobble is so bad it galls the piston rings then you lose the seal, leak oil, smoke out, then total catastropic turbo failure, as in it's spinning at 130k rpm one minute then CRUNCH it stops spinning, wheels break and lodge into the housings and the whole thing goes to hell. So if you're getting shaft wobble that usually indicates turbo is going, most likely due to oil starvation, as in clogged oil supply in most cases with these units, replace turbo and oil supply system and you might be able to save your motor. And do a full oil change, every drop you can, and clean the oil pan. Feel free to call us up for advice 800-298-8726, ask for Nick.

~tc

My turbo has been making funny noises recently. Invidia catless UP with temp probe.

 

First noise truned out to be the temp probe came loose, and I screwed that back in. I have not yet put the heat shield back on.

 

Second noise is a "hooo" sound when the turbo is under load - started afetr removing heat shield. No noise before, noticed noise as soon as I set off driving again. You have to specifically listen for it to hear it, but I can hear it. I currently suspect that the lack of heat shield is allowing a resonance / vibration to propagate through the DP. SOund comes from the entire underneath of the car, front to back.

 

I got P0011 and P0022 last week, but I've had those codes before when I go a few miles over the OCI, and an oil change always makes them go away for the duration of the OCI. My car tends to drink oil (1qt/1k miles) so it's generally fairly fresh because I'm topping it up all the time.

 

 

Plan:

 

- I have a new turbo/DP gasket - I will remove the DP and check the turbo shaft for play. Any play = new turbo before driving again.

 

- If turbo has no play then I'll check the banjo filter and clean or remove the filter element. I'm also going to check the banjos on the OCVs

- Recheck the bolts on the manifilold, UP, turbo and DP. Put the heat shield back on the turbo. Hopefully the noise goes away.

 

- Going to send the oil to Blackstone for an analysis - see if any wear materials noted.

 

Any more advice?

Given that you're getting those AVCS-related trouble codes and getting a "hooo" sound from the turbo it sounds like an oil issue, either sludge, weak oil pump, or poor oil flow into the turbo. I'd fully change the oil and replace the oil feed system. Might be getting a clogged artery in the turbo oil feed system because if the turbo is getting under-oiled it can make that sound you described.

Mine seems to be holding up quite well. It see 6k+ shift & 18.5psi of boost, mutable times daily. It will be 10yrs. old in July & as over 272k on the original motor & vf-40 turbo.

 

LGT's gets towing, drag strip & 120 mile commute to work & back duties.

 

IMO, check you oil level often & top as needed. Use whatever oil & filter that will protect for the OCI's your running. OA's is the only way you know that your oil & filter is up for the challenge.

 

Banjo bolts history:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1326330&postcount=158

 

Oil history from day1:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3765146&postcount=54

 

Mike

Wow, that's amazing for any turbo to last that long, you must take incredible care of your vehicles.

The banjo bolts are fine on 08-09. They are rotated a different direction and don't encounter the same issues as 05-07(not as frequently anyway). My VF-46 is at 75k mi and going strong, just change your oil regularly and frequently enough to avoid having sludge accumulate in the piping.

 

Your VF-46 is fine...if you really are worried then replace the banjo bolt filters...just realize they are there for a reason and aren't a concern with perform proper maintenance.

I mean the 46 is fine, and with regular oil changes and sane driving habits it should last up to 7 years/100k mi., but if you want more then you should go bigger (bigger wheels, housings, AND internals). These units wouldn't be by far our #1 reported failure if they were that good.

so, long time lurker/first time poster. i'm the "proud" owner a of a 05 outback xt with a blown turbo. it blew during a road trip. i took it to a local shop in the middle of kentucky where it broke down, they claimed to know how to fix it. they blew a second turbo. so from both turbos blowing metal into the engine a subaru dealership told me that the car needs a new engine block/turbo/whatever else gets screwed up when this happens and quoted me like 6k to fix it. i still owe 9k on this car. they offered me 1k if i traded the car in and bought a new one from them. not really sure what i should do. i'm currently 300 miles away from the car and wasn't sure if i should get it towed here and looked at by a local shop. should i unload the car and try to absorb what i owe on the loan with savings/trading in our second paid off car. i'm over my head here and was hoping for some advice.

It's most likely the oil feed system, the mesh filters in the banjos, or the itsy bitty tiny banjo bolt hole that needs clocked oh so perfect within the fitting to allow oil flow. Any and all of these can get clogged with sludge. And you have to watch for or cracked hard line under the intake manifold. I'm not exaggerating 9/10 customers who buy replacement Subaru turbos from us and don't replace the whole oil feed system have their new turbo blow within 50 miles after startup. 10/10 customers who install a new (or our upgrade) oil supply system are fine. That is the Achilles Heal of these AVCS systems. Not to say you engine isn't bad, but the likely culprit when a turbo goes down, then the next one goes down, is clogged oil supply.