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waldguy

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Posts posted by waldguy

  1. So I reviewed the manual - conventional is listed as an "emergency" alternate for the 2.5.  I thought it was synthetic.

    "If 0W 20 synthetic oil is not available,
    5W 30 or 5W 40 conventional oil may
    be used if replenishment is needed but
    should be changed to 0W 20 synthetic
    oil at the next oil change."

    • Like 1
  2. I don't think the oil consumption itself will shorten the life of the motor, unless of course you forget to fill too many times.  Using an oil with less lubrication might make it worse.  You are, however, changing the oil continually, so that should keep it somewhat fresh.  I might start with synthetic 5W-30, an alternative the manual actually suggests, and see what that does.

    Cheering for the Sept '26 deadline with you!

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  3. Very good point X-TSub.  Some wires may even be copper vs aluminum.  Most of us will also know from experience what head scratching and frustration faulty grounds will cause.

    I tend to use lithium grease on connection I service from time to time, but connections like the one listed here would not likely make that list. 

    Tef Gel looks better, particularly in salty environments, but then the price is dear too (over $75 CAD for 2 oz shipped on Amazon!).  I wonder if it's a mouse deterrent.... 

    • Thanks 1
  4. I can't say where your smell is coming from but it's not likely the oil pan gasket.  That would just leak to the ground without burning.

    I know that I had an oil smell and it turned out to be the front crank seal -- the oil would leak and drip onto the exhaust area.  It was repaired under warranty and I don't remember the hours of labor.

  5. TSB was done yesterday along with some others.  Tech at dealership didn't know why it happened either.  He just suggested keep turning the key off on off on off on lots of times.  He said it was typically more of a problem with the push button start.

    Apparently with one of the updates, he said, the battery will not be charged at all if the voltage drops below 11.6V.  That hasn't been a problem.  Just the same, I picked up a cheap load tester for occasional use -- car, boat, truck, etc.

  6. On 12/18/2022 at 3:08 PM, Tucsondave said:

    I pretty sure I'll order out rear wheel bearings and give that a go. Should be able to get a slidehammer from  autozone tool loaner. Probably have to buy a new torque wrench that will go to 200, as I think the wheel nut is supposed to be torqued to 177?

     

    Yep, just be aware that a slidehammer may be insufficient.  Prying and hammering with an experienced mechanic took over an hour before mine finally unseated.  Yours will hopefully be easier.

  7. Thanks for the ideas.  The 2015 model battery charges not with necessarily with long runs, but with periods of deceleration due to the "smart" ECM management for fuel economy, or during night loads. 

    On the night in question, the battery was likely at about 12.25 volts, perhaps just marginal enough not to crack the relays if "stuck" or frozen.  In addition I now found out that the plugin source breaker was turned off -- so the engine did not have the heated oil advantage.  The 0W20 flows relatively well regardless.

    Nevertheless, the key turn at first did not engage the starter at all.  When it finally did, the engine turned over well enough.  So in this case I think I can rule out a faulty heater block cord.

    How am I addressing this?  For the battery, I read and confirmed that a full charge can be force during daylight if I put on load like parking lights.  I may also get the battery TSB done (trip to the city and $75).  I also gave the battery terminals a slight wiggle and extra tighten.

    I also confirmed that the relays are indeed the new ones (eg. M09) as specified in the relay update.

    relays.jpg

    Main Starter.jpg

  8. 1 hour ago, ammcinnis said:

    I keyed in on the cold temperature and your report the car started after "slamming" the driver's door shut. The vibration could be enough to free sticky relay contacts.  Relay failures are rare, but for most of us so are starts at temperatures below -20 F.

    Wondering as well, if there's a neutral safety switch that might be affected by vibration?

  9. Thanks for reminding me of this.  I have on record that the recall work was supposedly done by the dealer in April of 2018.

    In this instance, the car would not have warmed up much on its way to the parking spot (300 yards), and then it sat for several hours before the attempted start.  It would be interesting to apply warming to the relay(s) in question to see if that would make the difference.

    Correction -- the car was sitting just a few minutes before the failed start (new info from the wife).

  10. Temperature outside: -34C (-30F)

    Car mileage: 98K kms (60K miles)

    Battery: 2 year old AGM Optima (800 CCA - turns car over fine in cold)

    Condition:  Car was sitting outside, but plugged in.  The operator went to turn the key and got interior & dash lights, etc.  Turned key to start and nothing fired.  Tried shifting the transmission to N, still nothing.  Wiggled the steering wheel.  Nothing.  Went out, opened the car door, got in and slammed the door shut.  Turned key to "start" and it fired right up.

    In the garage at about -8C (18F) the car has started every time.  I'm not sure where to begin with this....

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