TonyF
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Posts posted by TonyF
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Replaced oem turbo inlet, rebuilt vf40 again, repositioned catch cans, swapped to a Perrin BPV, changed a couple hoses, hopefully extending the life a little longer before I do the sb, has 206000 miles now.
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20 hours ago, BoozeRS05 said:
I had a ton of trouble installing the pump cap to the MC for my Motive Bleeder last time I used it too. Could not get it seated properly and made a huge mess.
19 hours ago, Max Capacity said:Going to do the 18' Outback on Saturday. I'll try the cap on that, I just read some FAQ's on Motives site.
Seems you push the cap down first, make sure it's fully down, then twist it...
I'll lube the o-ring with fluid, then try it. I didn't make too big of a mess, I was prepared.
The motive bleeder works best as just an air chamber, even if it leaks it's just air, and yes a little brake fluid on the oring goes a long way, some other caps use a flat donut of different thickness, they also sell a universal that has what you need to clamp it down onto various sized MCs.
BTW last mod I did was ISC coilovers last weekend, what a fun project, got the race spec 10k f/8k r, because racecar.
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Fun weekend, installed some ISC N1 V2 race coilovers with 10kg front and 8kg rear rates, drives way better than my KYB and H&R spring setup. I'm in love with my sedan again, got a cel again for p0304, reset, raise idle ignore some more until I am ready to pull the engine and make it new again.
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I did track prep for this weekend's trip to Roebling, while I was under there I sprayed liquid film on the rusty bits. Have a new RA block, timing set and gasket set sitting in the garage for when she's finally done which will be soon cuz I ain't wasting a timing set on an engine with 203000 miles on it. Still need to order clutch stuff and oil pump, already have catch cans and iag baffle and pickup. Have a machine shop lined up for the head refresh, will do the disassembly/reassembly myself,not skeered.
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a little track time action
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I just put in a Dorman (Autozone) a couple days ago, works fine. Switch over the backing plate and keep the extra nuts in case you lose one, $100.
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GR2 same as Excel G; I run H&R Springs with those at about a 1" drop and they're perfectly fine, just make sure you have good bump stops in front and don't shave them
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you'll be fine
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because other shit breaks first!
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I have used OEM, Energy and now Whiteline bushings in my LCAs they all seem to have their pros and cons and I drive hard, very hard, autox, track, etc.
The OEM bushings are pretty durable but are probably best for low maintenance on a daily driver and NVH is the best. The pros are they are cheap, easy to replace if you have a press and last a long time as long as they are torqued correctly. Cons are loss of precision/feel compared to the more firm options. On a DD they are probably the best bet for comfortable ride. New ones will probably work wonders if just replacing neglected ones.
The Energy bushings are ok, they are hard and cheap with increased NVH which is not necessarily good or bad. But, I had a problem with the right rear popping out of the LCA and eventually a catastrophic failure of the right front one at the track, I had to limp home, it basically shredded and fell out leaving me with a very crappy drive home. So pros are firm and inexpensive, easy to install if you have a press. Cons are they are not bonded like OEM, can be prone to failure and require constant inspection and lube. Maybe ok for a DD with some spirited driving. I don't think they are designed well enough for repeated hard driving.
Whiteline feel softer than Energy and they are pricey, but firmer than OEM for sure. The rear is partially bonded (only to the outer ring, an important distinction) so less likely to need constant maintenance for that one BUT the front bushings are very similar to the Energy ones with the exception that the inner surfaces seem engineered to retain grease a little better. For the price, I feel like they aren't that much of an improvement over the Energy ones, I already cracked the left rear one and the center hole seems to be expanding as they wear, I have had them less than a year. The right front is already damaged too, because of how the LCAs are designed the poly bushings will be cut by the LCA by routine use. Like the Energy bushings, these require constant inspection and the front ones need lube.
For me, I am going to get a set of the Mevotech aluminum units from Rock Auto and see how they do. Maybe best bang for the buck for me is to put OEM bushings back on the OEM steel LCAs in front but also maybe try the Prothane ones in the back, might be a good combo for me for spares I can swap at the track. Or maybe even get a new pair of whitelines for the rear, maybe my cracked one was a fluke.
What I'd like to know is why the price difference between 20204AG011 and 20204AG01B. All my spare bearings are marked AG011, even the ones I bought as AG01B, makes me wonder what I am missing or why people are paying a premium for basically the same $12 bearings.
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I don't want to change from oem springs, my ride height seems ok and I autocross and recently did my first hpde event. The car is not my DD but I do want to improve handling. I already put a thick sway bar in back which keeps it in stock class. Can anyone tell me if I get koni yellows, will it be worth the roughly $700? I probably need to replace the mounts while I am in there, the old ones have 170000 miles on them and they squeak. Thanks!
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I just bought this 2007. It's my first Subaru and first non-fwd. 105,000 miles on it.
Nice find!
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loving my lgt
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160500 the other day, bought the car used with no maintenance history at 153000, runs great, turbo pulls strong, seems all original, fixed a bunch of minor stuff like valve/rocker cover gaskets, oil cooler oring, reclamped a couple of axle boots, flushed most of the fluids and put in new plugs, having fun with it as a daily driver. I could tell the previous owner let minor stuff go but seemed to care for the important stuff good, doesn't seem to have any more oil leaks, must be empty lol
PS I was thinking about the uppipe and banjo bolt thing, maybe will take a look at those soon as well as getting a basic tune at one of the nearby subie tuner shops. Does have the trademark stumble depending on rpm and throttle position and the 4th syncro is weak but I'm still having a lot of fun, Blackstone oil sample has come back clean, just sent off another sample. I have other cars so this one is my dd, project, extra toy car. getting ready to switch to subaru blue coolant, yolo
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160500 the other day, bought the car used with no maintenance history at 153000, runs great, turbo pulls strong, seems all original, fixed a bunch of minor stuff like valve/rocker cover gaskets, oil cooler oring, reclamped a couple of axle boots, flushed most of the fluids and put in new plugs, having fun with it as a daily driver. I could tell the previous owner let minor stuff go but seemed to care for the important stuff good, doesn't seem to have any more oil leaks, must be empty lol
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I did my valve covers this past weekend, saw sludge too but otherwise looked good in there, cleaned up ok without disconnecting the hoses (in the car) put some permatex ultra black on those elevation changes, let it cure over night, no more leaky puff smoke
What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10
in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
Posted · Edited by TonyF
I only did the fronts, there's no point in doing the rears, matter of fact the front oem calipers are quite good as-is so a 2004 sti front brembo swap only needs the calipers, 04sti caliper bolts (brembos have different thread pitch than standard LGT), pads, and the larger diameter 04 sti rotors. Stock mc is fine.