762x39
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Posts posted by 762x39
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Awesome write up, gives a good idea of the work required. Considering doing this on my 2005 LGT.
Since my car is stock otherwise and this is quite a bit more flow than the catted pipe, do you think its safe to just run this pipe without any tune?
You Do Not need a tune for A catless up pipe, running it without a tune will not harm anything in any way. Even without a tune you should notice just a little extra torque.
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When a builder (with a good reputation) recommends something, I think their recommendations should be taken a little more seriously
Most statements made here aren't more true than this one. Unless you are a remarkable individual, you or most of the others here don't know more than your tuner. That's why people are paying him to tune and build these cars instead of all of the members here who bench tune and build with no working knowledge. Different tuners/builders have different tuning "styles" and preferences, hence the different recommendations. It all comes back to that old saying: "there is more than one way to skin a cat." as long as you get YOUR desired outcome who cares what worked best for the last guy? Take the advice from a reputable tuner, he is still in business for a reason. I let the advice of an expert take priority over the advice of the guy who's just really good at installing bolt-ons. In the long run, you will get a better tune if you install what your tuner/builder is comfortable working with. You are paying for THEIR knowledge.
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Whiter means nothing. As stated before, it's all about the lumens.
This is not completely correct. I will explain with special knowledge of the subject due to my profession. While Lumens is an important part of projected light, foot-candles, color temperature and CRI are factored in to complete the desired output of the lamp assembly. Lumens is the measurable amount of light projected from the source. Foot-candles is the measurable amount of light the source casts onto a given surface, however distance is a factor in the equation. Color Temp is measured in Kelvins and represents the "warmness/coolness" in the bulb's color output. Less Kelvin's is warmer and vice-versa. That brings us to CRI, which is the abbreviation for "Color Reference Index." CRI is based on a scale from 0 - 100 with 0 being poor and 100 being Natural light or Best. So its quite a combination of things not just simply the color or the lumens alone. Its not like choosing paint color like 99% of people do with their headlights and fog lights.
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Near death experience that I swam out of without a scratch, subaru FTW! I came around a bend and the back slipped out, over corrected into a guard rail that gave out. Sending me into the lake not before smacking the other end of the stone bridge wall sending the car sideway perpendicular to the road. Although because I hit the bridge the window was already smashed out, allowing me to exit through the window as the car hit the water. Swam out to the top of the underside (now facing up) crawled over and hopped onto land. By the time I got to land the news photo is all that was sticking out, surprisingly the lights on the car stayed on for almost 2 hours underwater.
Pictures - http://www.pinkbike.com/u/kajtek007/album/Other/?page=2
http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb8083872/p4pb8083872.jpg
No matter what room you walk into, unless its filled with decorated veterans, you sir have the most baddass story out of the entire group!
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My 20g twinscroll will hit 20psi at 3k.... Brake boost launches at 10psi too.
I haven't blown anything up, yet:redface:
I would PAY for a ride in that thing!!
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I'm very jealous! If I had that in mine, I would build my car into a muscle car crushing 1/4 mile beast. I would love to put the muscle car crowd to shame in a station wagon with a mountain bike on the roof rack! I wish frkkkevin would post up some 1/4 mile videos, he had just over 500awp on his 5EAT a while ago. I wonder how is 5EAT is doing now days.
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Sounds like a blast, but what about the clutch packs? Did you upgrade those as well?
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Our 5EATS are fast, but not around a track/autocross course. If AutoX is your focus, get a 5MT/6MT Legacy, or a Miata. You will always fall just a little short without a stickshift. As for 5EAT racing, If built correctly and you have deep pockets, its got great potential to be a decent 1/4 mile car...you already have the bushings so that's a start. I'm jealouse of that BTW. Other than that, they are phenomenal DD's for city driving.
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I only get waves when I see another Outback XT, which is a rare sighting in my area. Its like an Outback XT wave instead of the "Subi Wave."
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if it would help, I can split the 1/4 timesheet into m/t & auto. Posting on the 1/4 thread would keep it all together.
I would appreciate it if you did this! Until now I have had to do some mass skimming to find the 5eat times on the list.
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Anxiously waiting for an update!
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This might be a new record...
http://i.imgur.com/WvzxQAD.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/6u3PiKX.jpg
/thread
Re post this in the Official Lowered Outback Thread
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Your local I.B.E.W. (International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers) is ALWAYS hiring. They offer great pay and excellent benefits.
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2005 Outback XT -- 235awhp / 299tq...Needs a VF-52
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"They see me trollin, they hatin, patrollin 'n tryina catch me ridin dirty"
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I like it. Nothing Rice about it IMO.
To each his own, but I think that "Spoiler" which looks like it could be used to help air brake a Boeing 747 is a bit ricey.
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In Cold weather with a warm car (up to operating temp). I can imagine even in a car that is at op temp, components would still be partially cold when the temp outside is sub zero through 10*F(?) Its been this way for months now and my car is not much fun in this winter were having.
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Anyone else get terrible shifting / Transmission response when the weather is extremely cold?
Teh Rice!!!!!! Volume-2
in General Funny
Posted
If there's more supporting mods to go with that FMIC hiding in there, this guy means business!