Woony1990

There's an app called button Savior that will make mirroring seamless. I seen some videos previously and here's one of the most recent videos to prove it only 4 days old

 

 

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Ok so I tried button savior, but as soon as I hit the multitasking shortcut on the headunit the screen goes MirrorLink™ is now in operation and then nothing shows up unlike the video you showed me where they still see the cell phone screen reflected and can select other apps from there

Few things I noticed after update:

I can not access the vehicle customization settings. when I go into customization menu the screen hangs at "Loading vehicle customization settings. Please wait..." Message for a minute then it automatically jumps back to the general settings menu.

And the Mirrorlink is still greyed out with my Note 5

And can someone who did the update confirm that under software version check, if you scroll down to the bottom, the DB stays NU9007 when other are all updated to NU9017

-------------Update---------------

Im writing updates as my experiece may come in useful for others whos planning to do the update.

Fisrt of all my problem was because the second update did not applied correctly for some reason. I went to the origial thread @ outback forum and found out multiple people expreicend that the second update was a lot quicker than the fisrt update which was exactly what I experienced and those people experienced various problems after the update. And Ive also found out that in the TSB instruction manual, they say 4GB or smaller USB is required for the update and it should not be bigger than 4GB. Someone at the forum confirmed that he did the update with 8GB USB and everything was fine but I just got myself 4GB USB to be sure this time. So I did the second update again and it indeed took much more time for the system to finish it this time and then everything worked fine. Also, the DB version was updated to NU9017 after the second successful update.

----------Update #2------------

So I've tried Mirrorlink and the mirrorlink indeed does work after the Headunit update. BUT, I don't see how it can actaully be useful for anything now that I've seen how it works. It does not reflect the screen of the phone directly. It needs to be ran by an app that is mirrorlink compatible and there are only handful mirrorlink apps that are free.

Even the navigation, because I was really hoping that I could just mirror google map on to my headunit but it seems there is no app that can mirror google map atm. There is an app called sygic navigaion that runs off of mirrorlink but it's not a google map, and it's not free either

 

Enjoy the elevator music:p

WOW!! Thank you so much for saving me a stupid trip to the stupid dealer

Not a good idea, IMO. That's an 80% overtorque. But done is done, so at this point I would just leave it.

Even though it's 80% overtorque than what the Fumoto suggests, OEM plug is at around 30lb/ft anyways. And 18lb/ft felt so loose to me. It's barely making any friction.

According to the maintenance schedule on here:

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/maintenance-2015.html#notes

You only need to "inspect" the differential fluids every 30 month or 30k

I guess that means, after inspecting it, if there is no issues with it, you can just leave it and forget it. They don't call for scheduled replacement.

I know changing fluids is always good for the car, but wouldn't it be waste of money and time to replace something so early thats not even required to be replaced?

After putting fresh oil in, I will usually let the engine run for a few minutes to circulate the new oil, and let some oil get into the filter since I don't pre-fill the filter. After shutting off the engine, I'll usually wait around 3-5 minutes and check the level.

 

Not sure about the 2015's, but the oil dipsticks on the 4th gens are a nightmare. It's thought that because of the way the dipstick enters the oil pan at an angle, one side of the dipstick can read much different than the other side of the dipstick, up to a 1/2qt difference from what I've seen. I usually just split the difference between the two sides of the dipstick to play it safe.

 

After looking at the parts diagram, it looks like the oil dipstick on the 4cyl 2015's might enter the oil pan at an angle as well. So I'd be curious to know the next time you check your oil level, if one side reads different than the other. Sometimes mine does read different by a lot, other times both sides are almost identical, it's so frustrating.

http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=60249908&ukey_assembly=6030226&ukey_make=5806&ukey_model=89998&ukey_driveline=53362&ukey_trimlevel=110354&modelYear=2015

 

As far as the crush washer goes, are you sure it wasn't stuck on the oil drain plug? If it's not stuck to the drain plug, I have no idea. The parts diagram does show a crush washer for the drain plug.

http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?makeName=subaru&modelYear=2015&modelName=legacy25l-cvt-4wdlimited&ukey_assembly=6464407&ukey_category=54102&assembly=b15-031-01

Thank you for replying to my questions.

I've also heard things about Subaru dipsticks. In my case, two sides showed same level. but someone from another forum said that sometimes new synthetic oil is so thin and light in color that it's really hard to see because as soon as you pull the dipstick, the oil starts to drip downwards. So he says if I see oils on the tip of the dipstick(I think he meant the tip of the sides) it means the oil level is up to that point rather than the level where you can see the condensation. So Im guessing that's what's happening. Im going to check tomorrow morning one more time at different angles. He says if I look at from various angles, sometimes you can see the true level by looking at the reflections of the oil on the dipstick. I will try that because, I also saw some oils on the sides of the dipstick but I ignored it because I thought they were there because they got rubbed against the engine oil pouring pipe which would have thin coat of engine oil too.

And for the washer, I am not sure if this is the case, but OEM plug is painted in black and maybe the paint bonded the washer and the head together because I can see that the thread starts inside of the head which might be the washer. The head should be flat without the washer right? If so, what I am seeing is a washer that is stuck on the head of the bolt with black paint.

Here is write up after me doing oil change on my own for the first time in my life:

I thought I had everything prepared. I had oil filter, I had 116 set tool kit, I had Fumoto F-105 valve, I had wrenches, sockets, extenders, ramps, Oil catch pan, Torque wrench, crowfoot wrench, funnel, and most importantly 7 quarts of Pennzoil Full Synthetic Platinum 5W30.

First problem came up as soon as I started the job. The largest open wrench in that 116 set tool kit was 5/8" which was tiny bit smaller that 17mm that was needed. I had to run to the nearest hardware store to get a 17mm open wrench,

I used 17mm wrench to take off the OEM drain plug. but it was weird because after taking off the OEM plug, I couldn't find the washer. I thought it was stuck on the surface of the oil pan but it wasn't. So my next guess was that it fell into the oil catch pan, but when I emptied waste oil from catch pan with a funnel that has a filter mesh, there was no washer to be found.

Did anyone notice this too? or do you guys had washer on OEM plug?

So after I drained most of the oil, I proceeded to take off the oil filter and that is when I had most trouble with. I thought I could turn it with bare hands so I did not prepare a oil filter wrench. That was a huge mistake.

Firstly, my hands were all slippery from touching engine oil and secondly, the oem filter was stuck and it was more stubborn than I thought it would be.

So this time, I ran to the nearest autozone but ended up getting wrong tools for 3 times. I had to run back and forth 3 times just to get right wrench, and people at Autozone had been useless.

Anyways while taking off the old oil filter I noticed there was some kind of cable running through near where the filter is. It was really annoying because I almost ripped it off because my oil filter plier grabbed on the cable. I wonder what the cable is.

After I took off the old filter, I put some fresh oil on the gasket of the new filter so next time when I take it off, It would be easier. Plus I heard it makes better seal if I do so. Installing new filter was easy but had to use rubber gloves to tighten it since my hands were slippery.

Installing fumoto valve was also easy. I had prepared crowfoot wrench and a torque wrench for installing fumoto valve. I torqued it with 32lb/ft, fumoto says 18lb/ft but I say it's bullshi&. I know fumoto is made of brass which is somewhat softer than the metal but I think it will hold 32lb/ft just fine. and I don't want to see oil leak from not tightening enough. BTW, myth about the fumoto valves that the thread is too long and protrude into the oil pan is TRUE. It will stop from all of the oils draining. There is mod posted in this forum which involves cutting four slits that is about 3 threads deep on the tip of the thread. I did the mod before I took off the OEM plug(I actually borrowed tools from near auto repair shop because I don't have my own work bench). But after removing OEM plug and examining the actual thread depth of the oil pan, I concluded that 3 thread deep is not enough. If you want to have best possible drain, cut at least 4 threads deep. But I didnt bother to go back to the repair shop to cut some more, draining 100% of the oil is almsot impossible without special tool anyways. And Ive decided to just trust the oil filter.

After installing the valve I poured in 7 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 oil. However I was extremly confused after putting in the new oil because my dipstick was reading at low mark. I checked how much old oil I have drained and the amount of drained oil was about 6.3 quarts, and I know that dipstick was reading middle in between full mark and low mark before the oil change. So I poured in more oils than What I drained and the level on the dipstick goes down? My law of physcis had been put to test but Ive yet to find out why. Please if anyone have any insight on this weird situation, let me know.

First oil change was hard and I've encountered many errors and problems. But I kind of enjoyed it. Plus knowing that I've put in the best quality of engine oil makes me proud and happy. I learned a lot and I think it will be much easier the next time I do it.

On the side note, if you find my grammar to be terrible please excuse me, English is my second language.

Yeah you and me both.... Now I wonder though after doing sin reading is just threading a bolt through the hole even though it wasn't fully threaded in and placing a nut on the other side then torquing down gonna be good enough or do I need to thread the hole again and weld on a back piece?

 

 

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I say it's enough as it is now. I stripped one of the bolt too. I actually posted a thread about it.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/crossthreaded-bolt-while-doing-rsb-swap-239297.html?t=239297&highlight=cross+thread

I don't know what's happening in the thread but mine doesn't lock on and keeps spinning even with the nut. so I tightened as much as I can with the wrench holding the bolt in place and then called it done. Since then I haven't had any issues, but I still do check underneth sometimes to see if the bolt has came lose but it's been holding in place so far.

If you want extra secure feeling, you can get a blue thread locker paste ,blue meaning removable, and put some of it on the bolt.

Found sunshades.

Shade for cars with Eyesight

Amazon.com: Sunshade for Subaru Outback With Eyesight Year(s) 2015 Heatshield Windshield Custom-fit Sunshade #1535: Automotive

 

Without Eyesight

Amazon.com: Sunshade for Subaru Outback Wagon Without Eyesight 2015 Heatshield Windshield Custom-fit Sunshade #1519: Automotive

 

I bought the Eyesight version and it fits my car great once I take my DashCam down. the way the the top is cut in the shade the Eyesight is not covered

 

I don't mean to clog the thread with pics, but I just wanted to show since the Amazon picture is kind of generic the sunshade really is custom cut for the Eyesight.

 

http://i.imgur.com/fHOyxLYm.jpg

 

EDIT

Also noticed side window ones, but I don't think I would go that far unless the car was going to sit for awhile

Amazon.com: SIDE WINDOW Sunshades for Subaru Outback Year(s) 2015 Custom-fit Sunshade #1519S-A: Automotive

So i'll leave these here in case someone else is curious, but I don't know how well they would fit or if the door window is different in the Outback VS our cars.

Where do you keep these when not in use?

Save yourself the 125 and do it yourself. It really takes no skill and about 15 minutes of time. This is one of those items that makes no sense to have the dealer do it. Electrical sure. This. Not a necessary

Not everyone is DIY type. If he feels safer that way, let him be. I would do it by myself though.