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2_From_NH

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Posts posted by 2_From_NH

  1. No. The torque capacity requirement for the CVT (or any transmission) is determined by peak engine torque (plus some safety factor), not by tire size.

     

     

     

    No. For all 2015-2017 Legacys and Outbacks, the 2.5 engine (FB25) is mated to the Gen 2 CVT (TR580), while the 3.6 engine (EZ36) is paired with the high-torque variant of the Gen 1 CVT (TR690).

     

    Again, the choice of CVT is determined by engine torque, not by tire size.

     

    Thanks for confirming what I had originally thought. This is my first CVT, so I was like "okay, I'll go with it"

  2. This subaruoutback.org ‘Lowering ride height’ topic discusses going the other way, with this post by ronemus being interesting.

     

    Thanks for that link! That was actually pretty helpful.

     

    And, I found it amusing that he got flamed for asking the same thing I did. Apparently Outback owners don't like thinking outside the box.

  3. Why not get an Outback straight off then?

    :hide:

     

    For the same reason I didn't get a WRX: I wanted a Legacy. Just because I bought a car one way doesn't meant that I have to live with it that way. And, Subaru also used to offer an Outback Sedan, just like they used to offer a Legacy Wagon. 05-07_Subaru_Outback_sedan.jpg

    http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YNC2ig5OfA8/VMZ_u5RGOtI/AAAAAAAAiDA/Aadoc-bSnZY/s1600/1.JPG

     

    Plus, stock cars are never good enough for me lol. Take for example the engine swap I did in my autocross car. Why? Because I wanted it to be more fun!

  4. I want to do this too, no one would answer me so good luck... How much of a lift do you want? For me I am trying to get a simple 1.25" front/rear spacers so nothing too crazy.

     

    I want to be able to run decent offroad tires (Yokohama Geolanders) and run the stock Outback size (or larger), so I would hope for about 2" of lift when it's all said and done. I mostly want to be able to beat my car up during rallycross and not worry about it! It's pretty straight forward, and really depends on 1) how much you want to spend, and 2) how thorough you want to be. You can do it the simple way with King Springs, or the thorough way be replacing ALOT of parts with Outback parts, just to be sure lol.

     

    I have scoured the Subaru parts catalog to find what's different but relevant.

     

    I also found this thread outlining how a similar lift was done on a 5th gen, and this thread highlighting what parts work in best and why. It's about lowering, but still.

     

    - STRUT COMPLETE-FRONT LEFT 20310AL05A ( x1 )

    - STRUT COMPLETE-FRONT RIGHT 20310AL04A ( x1 )

    - SPRING SEAT-FRONT STRUT,UPPER 20323AL01A ( x2 )

    - COIL SPRING-FRONT 20330AL06A ( x1 )

    - COIL SPRING-FRONT 20330AL07A ( x1 )

    - HELPER-FRONT STRUT 20321AG011 ( x1 )

    - HELPER-FRONT STRUT 20321AG010 ( x1 )

    - SHOCK ABSORBER-REAR 20365AL02A ( x2 )

    - COIL SPRING-REAR 20380AL04A ( x1 )

    - COIL SPRING-REAR 20380AL05A ( x1 )

    - STOPPER-UPPER 20176AJ040 ( x2 )

    - STOPPER-UPPER 20176AJ04A ( x2 )

    - LINK ASSEMBLY-STABILIZER,REAR 20470AJ010 ( x1 )

    - LINK ASSEMBLY-STABILIZER,REAR 20470SC000 ( x1 )

    - REAR ARM ASSEMBLY, UPPER LEFT 20252AJ02A ( x1 )

    - REAR ARM ASSEMBLY, UPPER RIGHT 20252AJ03A ( x1 )

     

    The really important stuff is of course the suspension parts like the control arms, as those allow you to keep good geometry.

     

    I have been scouring ebay and the outback forum for the front bumper to match my color.

     

    Have you checked car-part.com? They normally have a good selection of stuff. I can't do that, since no one wants to ship big stuff to Hawaii. But, the bumpers aren't expensive, so I was thinking of just getting them, putting them on, painting them later. Would be easier than trying to find a Lapis Blue Pearl bumper that's not all marked up, and is still in good shape.

     

    - BUMPER FACE-FRONT 57704AL01A ( x1 )

    - Bumper Underguard Front E551SAL000 ( x1 )

    - COVER-INTAKE,FRONT 57731AL03A ( x1 )

    - FOG LIGHT ASSEMBLY-FRONT RIGHT 84501AL04A ( x1 )

    - FOG LIGHT ASSEMBLY-FRONT LEFT 84501AL05A ( x1 )

    - GARNISH-SIDE SILL,LEFT 91112AL57A ( x1 )

    - GARNISH-SIDE SILL,RIGHT 91112AL56A ( x1 )

    - GARNISH-DOOR,LEFT 91112AL53A ( x1 )

    - GARNISH-DOOR,RIGHT 91112AL52A ( x1 )

    - LETTER MARK-FRONT DOOR 93063AL000 ( x2 )

    - GARNISH-REAR DOOR,LEFT 91112AL55A ( x1 )

    - GARNISH-REAR DOOR,RIGHT 91112AL54A ( x1 )

    - BUMPER-FACE,REAR 57704AL11A ( x1 )

    - Bumper Underguard Rear E551SAL200 ( x1 )

    - LETTER MARK-REAR 93079AL000 ( x1 )

    - REFLEX REFLECTOR ASSEMBLY-LEFT 84281AL01A ( x1 )

    - REFLEX REFLECTOR ASSEMBLY-RIGHT 84281AL00A ( x1 )

     

    And as for the body parts, these are the ones that I've identified. From what I can tell, they aren't exactly bolt on, but are close enough. You'd have to drill a couple holes here and there, but most of the stuff should fit without issue. But, I haven't gone down that road yet. Hell, there are still days I want to start auto crossing it, which is a COMPLETELY different build path!

     

    All in all, I'm not 100% sure that I would need EVERY part that I listed. But, buying all these parts from Subaru would run about $3k. And of course, if you just want a lift, then Flat Out Suspensions coilovers are $2k, and are more than you would ever need!

  5. Like tigger said treadwear is typically the main difference. Higher performance categories will typically get you better grip for high-speed cornering at the expense of wearing faster. If you go maximum attack on backroad twisties then you probably would be better off with something UHP. Whereas if you aren't pushing to the limit on every corner chances are you'd appreciate the longer life of GT, especially the Pirelli P7's high treadwear.

     

    Either way your car will handle better than stock and probably be quieter too.

     

    High performance tires are definitely noisier. Grand Touring all seasons are made to be the best compromise of everything that an average driver values.

  6. Generally the performance/sports tire will have a softer/grippier compound that will also wear out faster.

     

    That's a generalization as I have got decent mileage from Goodyear Eagle F1A2's which are a performance tire.

     

    All it takes to make a tire last a while is not abusing the hell out of them, keeping them at the correct pressure, having a good alignment, and rotating them frequently. The RE-11's I have on my toy car have none of that, but have lasted through 1 autocross season and 5k miles, and will need to be replaced before the start of next season. But, I'm okay with that. I was actually surprised at how long they lasted, given that they have a UTQC of 200.

     

    I just replaced my stock tires with General Altimax RT43. Only downside (if it's even one???) is that I had to get a .4" taller tire (235/50-18). I went with those because LITERALLY ANYTHING is better than the stock tires, and I didn't want to chose a tire that was unidirectional, as well as one that was less than 400 UTQC.

     

    But, if I didn't have a dedicated toy car, I would have bought another set of wheels and tires so I could have better grip. I can't express how little I liked the stock tires.

  7. I have hope. This is a perfect time to bust out those selfie sticks. It does not have to be the whole car, can be part of the car, just show movement. Gopro's can also be used. I'll get one ready, but come on people! Step it up!

     

    Well, that definitely makes it a lot easier if there doesn't have to be an entire vehicle involved. It actually seems doable now!

  8. http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t379/2_From_NH/DSC_8070_zpshijz8jom.jpg

     

    http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t379/2_From_NH/DSC_8037_zpshwstydil.jpg

     

    http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t379/2_From_NH/DSC_8065_zps5jh7x8hp.jpg

     

    http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t379/2_From_NH/DSC_8240_zps6gsjx2yd.jpg

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