AVGxp

I can't find anything about what would void the warranty, but best bet is to just give SOA a call and get it directly from the source.

I took out the glove box and the piece it attaches to to have a look at wha that looked like and couldn't find a possible source of water in that route.  I had checked the sunroof in the past and it wasn't clogged either. 

The only thing I believe to be possible is that I hadn't closed the passenger door correctly and it came in through that, but so far I haven't been able to replicate the issue.

Thanks for the help, I'm hoping that it isn't a chronic issue at this point.

Yes, I lifted the car and had a look at the hose which was presently letting condensation out

I hardly drive my car now a days, so I was caught by surprise a few weeks ago when I jumped in to clean the car and found the footwell filled with water.  The water was pretty clear and it wasn't clear how long it had been there or where it came from.  I'm trying to find where it came from and am running out of ideas.

here is what I've checked:

• AC drain, seems fine, works today and car had not been driven in weeks for enough AC condensation to still be there
• Cowl Panel, the strip of rubber is dry rotted and falling apart, I sprayed a considerable amount of water on the windshield and none of it made it's way to the footwell

Until I find out, I put in kitty litter in the footwell to pull the water that was  in the carpet and foam as well as prevent it from happening again until I fix the source.  Any idea of what I should check next?

Good call guys, two bad wheel bearings in the rear were the cause. I searched on youtube for wheel bearing noise and it was fairly close to what I was hearing. I'm happy I'll regain some of my sanity when I drive it.

I don't remember what I had on before but I remember that as soon as I got back into the car after the tire change, it was just so loud. I thought it was the diff at first but it would have blown by now if that was the case.

 

 

I had an alignment done in the last year so I never considered that to be the issue. I can put the car on jack stands and see if the noise persists if the wheels are no on the ground.

I've recently replaced my tires with a set of Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 and there is so much road noise afterwards and I was wondering if anyone has noticed the same thing or if there is something else I should check on.

What's included with the Grimmspeed TMIC? What hoses and do you have a legacy hood scoop?

So what's the procedure involved with the airbag recall? I'm wondering that if the dashboard has to come out for it, I'd ask the dealer to replace it at that point and I'd pay for the new dash.

covertrussian's thread may have some info.

 

It has been talked about.

 

Have you asked Google how to ?

 

 

I did, I can use the name you provided to search now but all I found was threads about how I should just delete the tgvs, I don't want to take that on with the amount of changes I'm making now.

So I removed the TGV motor to make it easier to remove the oil line and I moved the position of the tgv by mistake, I tried to set it to where it was as best as I could before reinstalling. I just wanted to know if there is a procedure I should follow to reinstall the motor.

I had a similar problem on an ej205 on a wrx and it turned out to be due to a head gasket issue.

I would think 100 miles on the oil would be good for the sample.

 

Do you feel lucky...(punk) that's a line from a Clint Eastwood movie.

 

 

 

 

I'm actually not too concerned about it, except for the turbo the car is in really good condition so I would think it was maintained well before being passed to the sucker that I am.

It's probably because he exploded the OEM turbo and wanted to make it "run" before dumping it. Get an oil analysis done. Look for metal in the oil.

 

 

I just had an oil change done and the car has been sitting for weeks now while I waited for the title to come in. Do you think I'd have to run it a bit more for an oil analysis?

How do you know the stock turbo is going? Is it is the turbo bearing, have you checked the oil for bearing material? There is no point in putting a new turbo on an engine that has metal in the oil.

 

 

I took the car to a subaru specialist autoshop and they told me the turbo is in bad condition.

 

 

 

So today I took it apart and there is scaring in the turbine and some shaft play, but that's not even the fun part. The previous owner had swapped in a td04L-13t, I don't know if it's just because he had a bigger turbo he didn't want to sell the car with it or he wanted the faster spool of the td04.

 

https://imgur.com/a/NGharpZ

So I finally looked at the turbo the day before the swap and I don't have the coolant lines, I bought new oil lines anyway but I haven't been able to find the coolant lines by themselves for sale, does the dealer sell them separately?

Well recently got one, it not being rusted was what sealed the deal, I can fix mechanical issues myself but rust is being my skills.

 

 

 

I'm just upgrading/fixing stuff for now, the turbo needs to be replaced so a vf52 is going in, with that I wanted to replace the intercooler and inlet hose because the tuner recommended it.

 

 

I plan to do reliability mods from here on out and once the pandemic has passed, I want to put some nice tires and wheels on it and take it to a race track.

 

 

The only reason I went with a spec b over a standard gt is the 6 speed. I hated driving my previous wrx and lgt constantly thinking that I could break the 5 speed, it feels nice that it isn't the week spot anymore.

Have you gotten the help you were looking for? My honest opinion is if you are tight on cash, don't mod anything, you'll need that money to fix problems instead. I had a 300whp 04 wrx that probably consumed more oil than gas because I tried to mod it on the cheap and didn't have money to fix the problems as they came up.

 

 

 

So to summarize your questions:

 

 

Avoid the throttle body, fmic probably won't do anything since the stocker is enough for the stock turbo, a cold air intake will need a tune and won't net much gain if any, you can probably get most of the sound just by replacing the stock filter anyway.

 

 

What are your goals is probably a better question. More power, more noise, looks...

On another note, what's up with the stock bpv? Can I reuse it and does it need anything replaced when I move it over?

This would be a good time to unscrew the banjo bolt that feeds oil to the turbo and inspect the filter inside. Clean it, replace it, or remove it.

 

Is this on the 08 Legacy? If so then you may also need to replace the top section of the oil feed line that bolts to the turbo and the lower coolant hose, due to different lenth/fitment from the stock VF46.

 

 

Thanks for the heads up, didn't realize they were different. I'll add that to the list

I recently got a VF52 to replace the stocker in the car which appears to be going. Along with it I got a inlet hose, and a ebay intercooler (temporary solution, I didn't need better performance just something that doesn't leak).

 

I've gotten a kit with all the turbo gaskets I'll need but I was wondering if there are other things I should do while replacing it. I'm planning on replacing the pitch mount as well with a group n variant, is there anything else that will be easier to do or I should do anyway while I have the turbo out?

Did you check in here for the info you need?

I found video on youtube, check it out and make sure you didn't miss anything. How long have you been at it so far? I want to replace mine but I'm not looking forward to it.

Probably a cracked solder joint, common issue. Just heat up the solder with a soldering iron to fix it.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4278790&postcount=60

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4643620&postcount=117

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5339079&postcount=188

 

 

Thanks so much, soldering I can handle and if that's all it is I'm going to be so happy, the money can be better used elsewhere in the car.

I recently bought my car and of course the light didn't come on until I drove it off the lot, it came on halfway on my drive home and then it was off the next time I turned on, and it's been turning on and off at random.

 

How can I troubleshoot it? Do I have to take it into the dealer? I tried to pull codes with an odb2 reader and the torque app with no luck. The car is not being used right now but I want to have it sorted by the time I start driving it in late October.