rubberman

We could purchase the CD for $75...

 

Or...

 

You can just download it from there: http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/mans/Subaru_J2534.zip

 

We would still need the actual Subaru data files that are located on the CD, that link is just a flashing interface / program if I'm not mistaken.

Edit - finally got it to download (169mb file), you were right & good find! I can't seem to open the flashwrite / PAK File List of N.America for SSM-3.mdb file or I would try to dump some of the info to an excel file (still not sure if TCU data is included or not).

I found the following link which mentions the software for reflashing the ECU & TCU (SAE J2534 program), seems there's a Subaru cd which can be purchased for $75 with the files on cdrom (includes ECU & TCU info). Straight from the link below:

"It seems like it should be possible to trace that program's calls to the J2534 API and capture the data being sent to the ECU. This data should include the kernel."

 

http://forums.openecu.org/viewtopic.php?t=2486

 

Could this potentially help in sniffing out the TCU interface / parameters?

If we had a contact at a Subie dealer maybe we could get someone to burn a copy of one of the CD's even?

 

I found another site showing how someone hacked the SVX TCU & all of the applicable data they were able to find (pretty interesting reading if you are curious about the TCU software). http://www.alcyone.org.uk/ssm/tcureverse.html

ClimberD - I agree about the economics making this a long shot... the number of folks both interested in this & willing to donate $ is a big question. So how do we identify the demand, are we talking 20, 30, or more people willing to donate (perhaps a poll thread to get a rough idea)?

 

Assuming it isn't interesting for Cobb business-wise, then who else might be a candidate that funding would motivate? I saw over on nasioc that Grimmspeed was asking about potential interest in the Forester 4EAT tuning, maybe this is an opportunity?

 

I'm not trying to be a pita with all the questions, I'm just genuinely interested in seeing a solution. My future power upgrade plans are on hold pending this final TCU piece of the 5EAT upgrade puzzle. Since the IPT build fulfills the mech upgrade part...a combination of the TCU tuning and that could really open new doors for the 5EAT.

 

I'm a mechanical, so I don't play with electricity (isht that is invisible & bites is off limits) & I have zero programming expertise so this is just a hunch regarding TCU complexity (# of diff units to hack). There would be TCU unit differences, but logically there's probably majority similarities with subtle changes in the latter year models?

 

I'm already asking questions to various colleagues to see if anyone has contacts at an OEM level, i.e. Nissan, etc. since my company doesn't actively develop products for Subaru at the moment.

What's the odds of asking Cobb Tuning about working on this if we are able to take up donations and provide some kickstart funding? Like others, it would be worth pitching in $200 to me to get TCU tuning capability (if it was on an AP or similar interface that would be even better). Does anyone have any contacts at Cobb, ie not just for a generic email request but someone that would at least listen to the proposal? In the end, I'm open to any effective tuning setup.

Running my BBS with my snows in 225/40/17 Dunlop M3's!

 

• Like the fact they fit over my Brembos
  
• thinking about painting black?
  
• good solid winter wheel
  
• Ohlins with ION's (JDM-front/HD/rear)
  
• agree with all of your comments above!
  

J

 

Great pictures. Your wagon looks awesome with those wheels and Brembo's! This is exactly what I'd like to add to mine.

I just did a quick google search and found the following site:

 

http://www.customlightz.com/?p=p_26&sName=projectors

 

They offer the projectors & lenses, are these the parts that you needed?

This mod looks pretty interesting.

SeeeeYa just directed me to this thread, I just posted earlier today with these same issues. Here's the link to my thread in the Trans forum in case someone uses different search terms (I searched and never found anything).

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2171404#post2171404

 

I definitely want to resolve this issue if at all possible - subscribe for a solution!

I need to see some pics of a road trip somebody went on in an 05 5EAT. I hear there are some great valve body pictures at some fancy hotel.

 

Update - nevermind, found the trip summary.

http://www.charlestoncitypaper.com/binary/2db75888/eatingJacksCosmicDog.jpg

 

Is that Axl Rose on the right?

I removed the radiator just to give me more room. I have heard of people placing a piece of cardboard against the radiator if left in place to protect the fins while you work.

 

To break the crank bolt loose, I put a couple large screwdrivers in the access hole for the flywheel / trans case on the top of the motor. Those screwdrivers held the motor/trans in place nicely so that I could break loose the crank bolt.

 

Before I pulled the tensioner pin, I actually also loosened the spark plugs and put the crank bolt back in place so that I could slowly rotate the crank and double check that nothing was binding up, ie if the cams were not aligned correctly a valve could come into contact with the piston. It's an easy check and you can also see the timing marks on the cams aligning correctly while doing this.

Just some alternative methods, whatever works for you. Just be careful and take your time when double-checking your work.

I haven't done this job on an 05 motor before, but I have done it on a SOHC '00 Outback and it was exactly like what you listed. You might want to go ahead and get a new tensioner, but it can be reused by using a press to recompress it for reinstallation. I have heard that the cams will want to move slightly once the timing belt tension is relieved (because of valve spring pressure). It's just re-aligning them properly when putting the belt back on and being sure they didn't slip a tooth when getting the tensioner back in. I think that there are some tools for locking the cams in place to prevent this, but not absolutely needed. Again, just some basic familiarity with Subie motors on my part. I replaced the head gaskets and did all the other work at the same time.

 

Also remember that you have a fine opportunity to replace some problematic seals on Subie motors at the same time: valve cover seals, oil pump gasket/o-ring, new water pump, thermostat, belts/hoses if needed. You can also check the cam seals as well to see if they are seeping any oil.

 

I used a Haynes manual and it detailed every step, Subaru service manual was ok as a reference. I did not need a lift or jack to do that job, once I drained/pulled the radiator I had plenty of room to get to everything. Not a bad job with some reading beforehand. I took a lot of pictures of the motor before and during disassembly so that I could get everything back together easy. It helped having those pics for the intake/hoses reinstall and belts.

Oh God, I've been afraid a thread like this would come up one day...I've only had my car since Dec 17, 07 and things are bad already. I've purposefully put this off, keeping this info in a spreadsheet is evil.

 

I haven't tried the "used parts" excuse with the wife yet, it's always "problems" with certain parts or the need to upgrade something so that I can "tow my sportbike/trailer to track days with an auto trans."

AP was partially described as a datalogger & able to read CEL codes - best damn CEL reader I've ever had by far.

 

Power

Accessport 700

Transmission Cooler 56

Uppipe - Crucial Racing (Coated) 210

Downpipe - Invidia Catted 500

TMIC - Perrin 805

OEM Gaskets for UP/DP Install 89

Cobb Heat Shield (Link1) 50

K&N panel filter 50

Perrin Lightweight Crank Pulley 55

Perrin MAF tube (King of Parts) 119

IPT Tran VB Mod

Perrin Mid cat section & Y pipe 435

Dyno Tuning by TopSpeed

 

Maintenance

Motul RBF Brake Fluid (x2)

Subaru ATF - 7 quarts 50

Front Diff Fluid 75W90 (1.5 quarts)

Rear Diff Fluid 75W90 (0.8 quarts)

Radiator Fluid 10

Power Steering Fluid - Mobil1

Crucial Racing Thermostat 49.75

AT Filter

AT Drain Plug Washer (x3) 4

T70 Torx bit for Trans drain plug 35

Diff Drain Plug socket 8

ATF Drain Plug 5

NGK Iridium IX Sparkplugs 40

 

Interior

 

Yakima Towers EZ Rider 122

Yakima Cross Bars 56

Mod Stock Radio & Add Double Din 1025

Trailer Hitch (Subaru hitch) 225

Hitch: stainless Convert-a-ball & lock, drawbar

Rubber Floormats - Weathertech 175

Metra or Subaru Pocket - under radio 23

Window Tinting 463

LED Interior Lights (Rallitek.com)

(Includes map lights, rear dome, & trunk lights)

 

 

 

Braking

Stainless Brake Lines 143

Speedbleeders 20

Brake Pads - HPS (Front & Rear) 143

 

Suspension

Perrin 22mm F/Rear Sway Bars & End Links, Stout Mounts 575

Coilovers

Alum Front Control Arms

 

Misc Parts

Rear Power Receptacle 25

Engine Cover Fastener 3

Rear Deck Cover Plastic Fastener

Rallitek Trans Mount Bushing 46

 

Total $ 6314.75

 

If there's not a price, then I haven't bought it yet.