technicalgarage

I find the blue tee is perfectly fine if you switch to correctly sized silicone lines.

Have two blue tees seeing 20psi for the past two years with no problem.

http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResources/ftp/pdfdocs/Smog%20Check%20Reference%20Guide.pdf

 

Appendix G-7, page 85 of the pdf

It's essentially a checksum of the rom.

For any given calibration ID, theoretically there is an entry in their database that says an ecu rom with the calibration ID of, for example, A2WC522N (one of the 05 lgt roms), should return a specific checksum when polled.

 

When we go and tune the ecu for various things, whether it be fuel tables, MAF scaling or cel fixes for things like tgv deletes, we alter the output of the checksumming process.

 

If the cvn is actively being checked during the new smog process, things become a lot more involved for people with injectors, tgv deletes, and other mods that absolutely cannot run on a stock, unmodified rom.

 

But yes, essentially California vehicle nazis.

Subscribed... CVN...

Again:lol:

Shoot - So sorry to hear this - sounds like the gauge is starved for voltage. Do the Leds make a full sweep at all? (like a dimly lit sweep?) Check your power connections. If this doesn't work... you may need to send it back and I will replace it for you. Let me know how you make out.

 

Disconnected the vbg1 for a while and drove around to make sure the battery voltage was up.

Tested 12.4v at the harness connector for the sending unit after getting back and sitting a while.

 

Turned the unit on, and again, various LEDs flash on briefly, and then nothing.

 

Please PM me with replacement shipping instructions.

Also, I'd like to buy two more at the same time since a couple of friends are (one GD impreza model, and if possible, a rectangular bezel one for a project car... maybe the mk5 golf model???)

Looking forward to the PM:cool:

 

Sucks to be without my favorite mod!

hey lossol, My gauge that I bought this february just stopped working.

 

It was working last night and earlier today, but I went to turn the car on again tonight and it would just faintly illuminate some of the leds, the displays stay dark, and the unit makes a faint clicking sound over and over.

I pulled my dash apart to make sure the ribbon wasn't loose, but couldn't find any issue.

Voltage to the gauge seems fine as well.

Any troubleshooting suggestions?

Yeah, that was me. Was this Friday night on 7th Ave? I think I remember a silver bug eye or blob eye behind me at some point?

-Brian

 

Yeah, silver blob eye.

Is that a custom LED highmount stoplight?

I have a wagon so I'm not familiar but I though sedans had regular bulbs.

Very nice looking car you have there. I wish my wagon was white

Saw this the other night in sf. SWP is definitely my favorite color.

Is this somebody on here?

I was passenger in my brother's wrx

Well, I have no intention of running e85 anytime soon due to availability, but I figured I'd get everything I needed just in case I do in the future.

 

Picked up a used 06 wrx fpcm with harness (pn: 22750AA010)

I decided not to do the actual wiring due to the reason above (which is, arguably the whole point of the modification), but instead just swapped modules and opened them up for the sake of comparison.

 

On the wagon, the fpcm is located in the driver's side (LHD) cargo area behind the interior trim next to the rear of the wheel well.

You can see the loom running around behind the sheetmetal to the fpcm here.

http://media.technicalgarage.com/media/car/bp9/fpcm/IMG_0065.jpg

 

Size wise, the 05 LGT part (pn: 22648AA081) and 06 wrx fpcm are identical.

The bracket holes are the same but the brackets themselves are different.

I have to say I like the look of the orange label a lot more though.

http://media.technicalgarage.com/media/car/bp9/fpcm/IMG_0068.jpg

 

The harness connections are the same. Like everyone says in the thread, the wrx/sti wiring is much thicker. Unfortunately the legacy harness is integrated into a loom and isn't two pieces like the wrx. (see photo 1). This photo is of the wrx harness, easily twice as thick as the lgt.

http://media.technicalgarage.com/media/car/bp9/fpcm/IMG_0060.jpg

 

Now comes the interesting part. I took apart both. Only noticed one obvious difference. The large orange caps have slightly different markings.

Other than that, the two modules look identical.

Whether or not they actually are though is questionable if not unlikely judging from people's experiences in this thread.

The left is the 05 LGT part, the right is the 06 wrx part.

http://media.technicalgarage.com/media/car/bp9/fpcm/IMG_0069.jpg

 

Legacy part:

http://media.technicalgarage.com/media/car/bp9/fpcm/IMG_0070.jpg

 

WRX part:

http://media.technicalgarage.com/media/car/bp9/fpcm/IMG_0071.jpg

 

Anyway,

 

Like I said, I just swapped the fpcm itself and nothing else.

Since I'm running gas it doesn't sound like it matters too much in my application. The car started and ran fine after swapping to the 06 wrx fpcm

I thought about taking voltage measurements but the weather sealing on the fuel pump connector was too tight for my multimeter probes so I gave up on that.

I just thought the internal comparisons were interesting to add to the thread.

Well, assuming the GRs are questionable, what do you think is the difference between 22750AA000 (04 and 05 sti) and 22750AA010 (06+)? Don't know if the years are correct but thats what FAST says... I wonder if the 010 pn is just a revised number. Should I try the 000?

Any word on whether the GR STI modules are acceptable?

You were absolutely right about the rate being the issue. I set it to low and it's instantaneous now.

 

I figured that the vac display was simply standard error. Thanks for the clarification.

 

Again, great gauge!

Just got my vbg1 and am loving it.

Just curious with the lc-1 readout though.

 

It seems as though it takes a while for the afr display to swing to air (20ish) after letting off to coast in gear when compared to taking a reading from logworks or romraider.

In logworks or romraider, it will almost instantly swing to 20, but the vbg slowly swings across through the scale (like 14.7, 15, 16, 17...) before reaching the 20.

 

Is there a built in delay in the vbg1 or is this a limit of the lc-1's analog output (since serial seems to update quickly)?

Should I ditch the lc-1 and get a plx:lol:?

 

I'm just concerned that the output is being filtered before being displayed, and that some quick spikes and dips in the afr would not be displayed during quickly changing fueling conditions.

 

The other thing I noticed is that while sitting with the engine off, sometimes vac will show about 5 or 10mmhg instead of 0... I don't really care too much but was just wondering why this happens.

 

Loving the gauge though, I can't believe I waited so long to get one!

Nice work! Any plans to add support for the lc-1's serial bus?

Red lgt sedan driving down lincoln in SF last night around a little past midnight

I was a passenger in the obnoxiously loud silver wrx.

I'll put an order in the minute the inHg in metric mode is fixed. Looks great!

 

I was wondering if anyone has any ideas about how to run this with another boost gauge already running off of the bpv vac line. Would it be better to tee off of the currently running Tee'd line, or running another T, further downstream on the bpv vac line.

Alternatively, is there another vac line I could tap if doing many taps off of one line can cause issues with gauge response and such?

Is there any way to get this to read out in metric? I'd definitely be in for one if you could.

Great thread. Subscribed!