Dinosaurs In Space

SOLVED: for anyone who cares... Noticed 0.05 VAC on the +5 VDC sensor line and slowly disconnected sensors trying to find the issue. Took it all the way to the ECU trying to find the 5 VDC regulator circuit.. No luck I installed an LM1 in the secondary O2 location in my 3" downpipe for tuning.. Apparently this guy had crept over to the heat shield and cut the wiring to where when the downpipe shook, it shorted out the +12v line which caused the ECU to stumble... Disconnected the sensor and it runs good as new. What a ******* nightmare. Hopefully this post helps some one in the future.. and hopefully it isnt me.

Bump Car will run 100% fine in idle. Monitoring the 'idle mode sw' in cobb, as soon as it turns to OFF the car starts stumbing, no matter how much pedal is applied. -New Pedal -New Engine wiring Harness -Replaced (used) throttle body Next step is compression test I guess..

Sorry, that was one sensor I forgot to list in the original post that was also changed.. Edited original post.

Sorry, this is not the typical fuel stumble issue. I've already dealt with that problem on this vehicle years ago and found a solution that works for me.

Hi All, I'm at my wit's end with this. Long read ahead I've been having a low load stumble at all RPMs with driving for a few months now. I can get it to replicate the stumble by sitting in neutral and revving to 2000 -3000 RPMs trying to hold constant throttle input. The AFR is reading 14.7 perfectly then the car 'burps' and the AFR jumps to 13.5ish, the RPMs jump then the car recovers. This happens about once every 1-2 seconds. This DOES NOT happen at idle. When I force the car into open loop using AP, it still happens in open loop. I'm not getting ANY codes.. and I am getting some roughness on all cylinders (but not much) Thing's I've tried: All new parts are OEM *New Air Filter *New MAF *New Front O2 *New Coil Packs *New NGK LFR7AIX plugs (same as it had) *New DW65C fuel pump (with new OEM in tank filter) *New Battery *New Crank Sensor *Cleaned all ground straps *Tore apart fuel system to look for debris, all new Orings + gaskets *Disabled AVCS (in tune) *Changed Tunes (have been running same tune for over a year with no problems) *Cleaned throttle body *Intake leak test @ 5psi - no leaks 05 LGT Wagon 5-spd Mods are as follows: ~30k on engine / parts since rebuild *IAG Stg1 block *EFR 6758 *ID1000 with top feed fuel rails + plumbing *Tomei FPR *Stock Airbox + Perrin Inlet pipe *Stock header + Custom UP pipe *3" TBE Log attached - You can even see the AFR change in the LM-1 data (installed in factory 2nd O2 location) Any help is greatly appreciated! I haven't driven this car in a few months! AFR Issues.csv

The clutch fork is brand new. I've tried adjusting the clutch pedal with no luck.

Desperate Bump... I've got the tranny back out.. Clutch disc moves freely on the input shaft. Input shaft has no radial or axial play and the runout is fine. Clutch disc orientation was correct. TOB in good health and even though it is TSK3 it has all same dimensions as stock except ID. Help!

Dearest members, I am at my wit's end with my car and thus I'm asking for help. Vehicle 2005 LGT Wagon 5sp Problem: Clutch won't disengage fully Background: When leaving the house, the car was impossible to get out of first gear into second. I pulled over, turned the car off and could go into all gears with engine not spinning. Went to start the car in 1st and the car lunged.. Reading about "side-stepping" the clutch, that seemed to "jog" whatever into place and allowed me to drive for a few more weeks. However, under boost I noticed the clutch started slipping Replacement Tore the transmission out and saw that the Clutch Masters FX300 was completely gone and it took my OEM WRX SMFW with it. TSK3 throw-out bearing looked fine. Ordered Exedy TYF001 Flywheel and Competition Stage 2 15021-2100 kit to replace. Everything installed fine but the new clutch would still not disengage. Ordered and installed Exedy CMC and bled the system. Still won't disengage. Ordered and installed new clutch fork after reading about the failures. Still won't disengage. I have ordered a new clutch slave cylinder as I think this is the only thing that hasn't been replaced yet but I'm worried it won't fix it for some reason. Can anyone help me by measuring their clutch fork / slave cylinder piston travel? I feel like mine is not going as far as it needs to. I don't see anything in the service manual about this distance. -Regards Dan