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element899

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Posts posted by element899

  1. Not fitting on stock 17s (even with spacers) kills the interest for me. Car is 11+ years old. Hoping it runs another 2-3. Looking for a newer semi-DD/track toy (thinking used cts-v) with lgt as backup. 18s + this would be $3k easily - car isn't worth $3k. I did just pay $2k+ to repair front diff + add hexmods f1, but that wasn't really an 'upgrade', more a 'keep it running' cost.

     

    Totally in the same boat. Plus with the recent pictures, not all of the pad being used is a total deal breaker. I picked up a whole front brembo setup for the same price as the ATS which just made more sense to me.

  2. Is it me or does it look like the pad is only contacting the outer half of the rotor? Is this what STI brembos also look like on our cars?

     

    That was my same concern, the bracket looks like it pushes the caliper too far outward. I did message the company that makes the bracket, and they did confirm that all the pad is in use. The STI brembos also look like they sit closer to the rotor.

  3. I don't have any bright ideas, but I salute whoever made that.

     

    Really clever exhaust, too. It just begs for a diffuser with deep fins... it could be quite a bit more diffusier than the diffusers made to accommodate the stock mufflers on our cars.

    Speaking of diffuser. Here's a poor quality screenshot of it with the diffuser on. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160417/52b8f72b629536ae7f07b5577586d38a.jpg

     

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

  4. Ok not entirely sure what you're saying here...but the 17" STi BBSs didn't clear the Cadillac Brembos because the 17" rim was too small, but these brakes are narrower than the STi Brembos so I thought (hope) they might clear the 18" spec.B wheels. SC, try em out for me!

     

    The STI BBS's spokes clear the caliper, but the top part of the caliper is hitting the barrel of the wheel. The Spec B's will probably clear the top part of the caliper, but will need a spacer to clear the spokes.

  5. Did you have to use high wattage 6ohm resistors for the turn signal/running light as in this guy's thread?

     

    http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jdm-hid-headlight-conversion-walkthrough-113094.html

     

    No, you don't need to replace the flasher unit either. Since the running light and blinker are not wired in-line, I was able to run an LED in the running light and have the blinkers function just fine.

  6. I could see this working. The need for it though is another thing. Do you have any ideas on where you would pull the air from? Abs won't hold up to intense brake heat if near the rotor.

     

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

     

    I was thinking that the air could be pulled from the foglight holes. I know that rooducts already has a 3-d printed design that bolts to the frame, but I was thinking this could be smaller and have air flow directly to the rotor. The rooducts product would need additional hose to reach the rotor surface.

     

    http://rooducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/IMG_20140307_191802_080.jpg

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