rrobe99999

Thanks. I ordered one. Sux that I have to wait another week now to finish the job

Look like I am missing a part here near the back of the oil pan. It's not on my old block. What is it called?

Thanks. Almost ready to drop it back in

I finally got heads back from machine shop and forgot where everything goes on my engine. Where does this bracket go that is shown laying over the up-pipe. It must go on the empty stud, bit IDK 

Thanks for the reassurance

Does the new block ship with some oil in it? I finally got it on the stand, put on the crossover pipes and flipped it over. I noticed a tiny bit of oil inside the cylinders that were upside down during the flip and some on the crank. It could have been left in the crossover pipe, but I'm worried that it got past the pistons.

On 11/15/2021 at 4:47 PM, Max Capacity said:

FWIW, here's mine on the 09 Spec B. It's been there for about 5 years or more

 

Max, how is your EBC holding up. It is much cheaper than the "ruggedized" Cobb or Grimspeed versions of the same part. I am considering this for my rebuild.

My shiny new block is here! It arrived in great shape. It only has 2 small dings on the top front at accessory bolt locations. I can live with that. I'm surprised how light it is. I'm a weak old man and was able to lift it out of the crate. After considering all the mods for this engine I decided to wait until after break in to mess with fuel and emissions. I would probably freak out seeing engine codes thinking I messed something up. I am just doing cylinder 4 cooling mod and throttle body cooling bypass.

I am looking for a machine shop to rebuild my 05 OBXT heads. I am in Destin FL, between Panama city and Pensacola

Here is the damage. Cylinder 4 ring failed. Oil was getting past it. Cylinder 2 is pretty bad too. The 2-4 head is in bad shape with burnt valves and a cracked one on #2. The other side of the engine doesn't look so bad. What causes one side of the engine to wear out faster? I feel good that I accomplished this thanks to all the information here. Only "oh shit" moment was rounding a cam cap screw. Luckily it was in a good spot to cut the head off with a grinder. Everything came out easily after that. 

Thanks. I still didn't find it but I found iwire USA. He sells all the connector housings so I can easily rebuild my harness for a lot less $ than replacement. 

I am looking for a new engine harness for my 2005 OBXT. Are they still available? What is the current P/N? I can't seem to find one.

Thanks for the convincing argument. I will use ARP head studs. I pulled engine, manifold and turbo. Turbo looks good, but will probably get a rebuild. It is marked BNR and has 8.06 on the center band. I don't see any other markings. How do I ID this turbo? I lossened cam and crank bolts with timing belt on and flywheel Locked to the engine with a bracket. Would this technique stretch or damage the new belt when I put it back together? Back to work now.

 

On 2/15/2024 at 3:12 PM, KZJonny said:

Head studs will also hold up better under boost with even a fairly mild tune.

Depending on the specific engine, stock bolts begin to leak arounf 17/18 psi, which is not a lot. I see a little coolant blowby at peak boost of arounf 17.x or so. This is a bummer, and not exactly all that much boost, really.

Head studs are the solution, and are cheap enough.... It would just be annoying to find out that your tune is happy sitting around 18psi, or wants to be (maybe 20psi if that turbo if bigger than stock?), but you really can't use it 'coz you didn't do studs while you had the chance.

Just a thought.

Thanks for confirming my shortblock selection. Research indicates that I have the B25 heads and I can see they are single AVCS. So the 2009 - 2019 STI RA shortblock is identical to mine with better parts. I will reconsider

 

 

 

 

Yeah, stupid of me. A little radiator with oil going through it

It seems that deletion is not a good option. I was thinking the air 2 air option would be a "free" upgrade since cost would be the same. Car is no longer my DD. I usually drive long distances except for occasional Autocross. I always let it warm up and cool down between runs.

I am currently rebuilding my 05 OBXT engine and see that it is recommended to replace the oil warmer/ cooler. I am considering other options. I could put in an Air to Air oil cooler for about the same cost or just delete the stock part. I live in FL so don't think I need the warmer and I can't really see how I get any cooling benefits from the stock part. I already have a sandwich plate installed from the STI gauge pack if that makes any difference. Looking to hear some opinions and see what others have done besides R&R the stock warmer/cooler.

Thanks for confirming my shortblock selection. Research indicates that I have the B25 heads and I can see they are single AVCS. So the 2009 - 2019 STI RA shortblock is identical to mine with better parts. I will reconsider custom tune and ARP studs. So far, pulling the engine has been easier and faster than my efforts to diagnose the misfire, so that might be the best way to remove a head if needed. I don't have a lot of experience and appreciate all the different POVs

Great information here. I should have been more specific. Want to use the EJ257 RA shortblock, because it seems newer and better but am not sure about compatability with my heads and the COBB OTS tune. I will definitely do the cylinder #4 cooling mod. If I had known about this earlier it may have given me a few more miles on the old engine. I have decided against the ARP studs in case I need to pull heads with motor in car.

Its finally time for a rebuild after 207K miles. I had P0304 cylinder 4 misfire and found zero compression on cylinder 4 and 60 on cylinder 2. I'm doing a lot of research here and have a few questions to make sure I get it right.

First, I'll cover some history on the car. I bought it from a dealer with 135K miles. I believe it was rebuilt after a turbo failure. I think it has an aftermarket turbo, because it has an adjustable wastegate. It had a new intercooler and the braided turbo oil line with filter. 3 of the 4 banjo bolt screens were removed. I removed the hard one up front. I performed a few mods:

Invidia catted downpipe + custom 3" single exit exhaust

Gutted up pipe with resistor mod

Cobb intake

Cobb AP with OTS stage 2 tune for 93 octane 

Spec Stage2+ clutch and SMFW for 07 LGT, Oversized TOB and forged fork

Timing service 30K miles ago (may reuse pulleys)

I've been very happy with this performance level. My goal is to just fix it back to where it was and get another 200K out of it. I believe the stock engine is fine for these mods. I am getting a new OEM shortblock and having the heads rebuilt. I will replace things as needed during rebuild but will try to reuse all the good parts. Onto the questions:

1.) can I use OEM part number 10103AD020 shortblock without further tuning? Is it identical to my old shortblock?

2.) Do I need to do anything other than what I did during timing service to set the timing?

3.) What seals do I need that are not included in 10105AA720 seal kit?

4.) It seems a few items are mandatory replacements: oil pump, oil pickup, and AVCS solenoids. What else should I replace or upgrade now that I would regret not doing? 

5.) Should I use 1 step colder plugs, NGK LFR7AIX?

Project is going well so far. I have everything disconnected and will pull the engine this weekend when I can get some help. TIA for comments and advice.

 

How do you install a compression tester in cylinder #4 on ej255 engine? I performed as a contortionist to get the spark plug out, but can't figure out how to thread in the hose from the generic compression tester I borrowed from the auto parts store. Is there some trick or special tool that will help? 

I have a brand new sealed package remote key FOB to sell. Dorman 99132 for $55 shipped. Works on 06-07 Legacy and Tribeca, 99-07 Outback, 99-04 Impreza and Forester.

Very time consuming but worth the effort. I've found extra time for such projects while teleworking

I had some minor dash damage during the 1st recall. They had to replace an A/C vent that they cracked. A few other dig marks I have to live with. now there is a 2nd recall 'cus they used crappy detonators again. I'm afraid to go back. Seem like professionals would be good at this by now.

I just installed a new clutch setup in my 05 Outback XT with 190K miles. The stock setup starting slipping about 1 year after doing a Cobb Stage 2 upgrade with intake, downpipe, exhaust and 93 Octane tune. I installed a Spec stage 2+ clutch and spec flywheel for the 05 Outback XT along with the TS3K snout repair and TOB. Everything went together fine and I don't think its possible to install the clutch disk backwards without noticing it. The clutch won't disengage and allow me to shift with engine running. I can shift with the engine off. I can start the car in 1st, lurch fwd and stall. The pedal feels pretty light going all the way to the floor. I think the problem is that my old hydraulic system can't handle the new heavy duty pressure plate. I adjusted the clutch pedal to max throw. The fork feels fine and the slave cylinder will push it back about 1/2" when I push the pedal. When I disconnect the slave cylinder, I see the fluid level in the master rise and fall as I move the slave piston. The piston goes out much further when I push the pedal with no load. I can operate the fork with a wrench, hear pressure plate movement and feel the finger resistance. I don't hear this when the fork is operated by the cylinder. I think it can't push out far enough against the heavier load. Any ideas what my problem is? Please share any experience with similar problems. I think I need a hydraulic system upgrade. Any recommendations for bigger MC, smaller bore slave, and steel braided line. Any help is greatly appreciated.