YeuEmMaiMai
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Posts posted by YeuEmMaiMai
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Only guy I would use in NY is
South Main Auto
47 S Main St, Avoca, NY 14809
his labor rate is roughly $75 an hour last i heard
https://www.eveningtribune.com/article/20160216/NEWS/160219790
and yes he knows what a Subaru is and works on a lot of them.
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I used the Astro ball joint separator under $30 on Amazon
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JBICZYK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1. remove cotter pin and castle nut
2. put tension on ball joint
3. tap lower control arm with hammer ball joint will pop from control arm so I would have a cart under the wheel if you are on a lift to catch the tool
4. remove half shaft from hub or make a heat shield to protect the shaft rubber I choose to remove it.
5. heat up knuckle and bolt
6. remove bolt with impact driver
7. drive a chisel into the slot
8. air hammer (big nasty) ball joint lip to spin it and it will come right out
9. when you install it. use copious amounts of anti-seize on ball joint where it makes contact with knuckle.
10. put anti-seize on bolt shaft only and reinstall
11. reinstall half shaft
23. reinstall LCA to ball joint
When I did this on my 2010 outback 3.6R at 150K when replacing passenger side ball joint, axle seal and both lower control arms... Passenger side took 3 hours and driver side took one for LCA
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ok i have been through this and this is what you do. Intermittent = electrical issue, not mechanical one
start engine when COLD
quickly go around and wiggle each coil connector until you find the one that causes the car to stumble
delaminating coils should be replaced. you can get them for about $70 each on rockauto for NGK OEM ones.
At 146K I did all 6 and it was just under $400 after discount
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There is a wire that command alternator on and off
every modern car since the early to mid 1990's does this
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I have seen on my 2010 outback 3.6R voltage range from 13.2 to 14.8. The ECM uses PWM (pulse width modulation) to control the alternator duty cycle to only charge the battery as needed. The readings are no different on my 2014 2.5i Legacy.
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165K before failure? that's pretty good... you are going to have to tear it down and inspect for damages anyways so might as well remove it from the car.
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I am going to go out on a limb here and state that he is muchado about nothing... Acura had a 3.2L V6 in 2004 making 256HP with a 6speed manual and NO ONE EVER said the car was hard to shift or jerky with it's drive by wire setup....
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motorweek as a video on a brat
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while not a legacy, I did the 14 suspension upgrade on my 2010 outback 3.6R along with a nice fat 20mm rear sway bar. Ride firmed up a bit but remains comfortable... should be under $500 for the complete smart strut assemblies. KYB parts were identical to OEM with the only difference being the studs/bolts for the mounting plates were larger.
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are you sure it is not an axle?
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^ it makes the ride more compliant but the bushings get pounded into oblivion... as they take both lateral (side to side) and up and down loading... the older style only had to deal with twisting motions and not the side to side movements.
LCA replacements are common on cars that use this type of setup... aka pillow bushings
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white there are a few notable changes, it is really nothing more than an evolution of the previous 2 generations setup.
the MAJOR fail on the 2010+ setup is changing the rear LCA bushing from horizontal to vertical.. they simply do not hold up as well as the older design that was horizontal does.
on the plus side the relocation of the front end links is a notable improvement.
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^ how fast do you drive?
14 Legacy I beat EPA by a wide margin if I drive 55 on the highway (about 36) if I drive 72, I get 29mpg
2003 Legacy with 143K on it at 72, the car gets 28mpg it is rated 28
2010 Outback with a supposedly very thirsty 3.6L, I have yet to take it on a road trip but my combined mileage is 24 (40/60 City/HWY split)
in short keep the foot out of the throttle...
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I see you missed the point. It's ok. You do what works for you. As for the dick measuring contest, I'm the only contestant here, so if that's losing, I'm the biggest loser.
I did not miss the point, you did... who do you think is (generally speaking) going to do a better job aligning the car... one tire shop that does not know the in and out of each make or the local dealer?
I have been driving cars since they were mostly V8 with a carburetor powered and I can tell you from personal experience that I have NEVER, EVER taken a car back for a realignment that was done at the local Honda, ford, Subaru, Chrysler, GM, Toyota, etc dealer... I have on multiple occasions had to take cars back to shops like tires plus, goodyear, firestone, etc because they could not line up the car correctly on the first try...
I have had my 14 Legacy for 5 years and it was aligned once in 74K miles by Subaru dealer
I have had my 2003 Legacy for 7 years and it has been aligned once in the 80K miles I had it by a different Subaru dealer, no issues
Now if you can find a guy that is good at it with your make of car, by all means, use them but from my personal experience, you cannot go wrong with a competent person whom only works on said cars... We have 5 dealers here for Subaru and I only use 2 of them...
point is, people whom work on nothing but one make of car are (generally) very good at what they do.
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I did the HID upgrade 3 years ago and it has been nothing but amazing... the beam pattern is exactly stock but has better light output and the best part is the squirrel eyes remain to light up the street signs...
2010 outback is about to get the same treatment but I am going to run relays this time around so I do not have to rely upon the poor power distribution of the pre '13 cars for headlights
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Not with a swivel.
well unless you want to take an intake manifold off, that is your only other route... personally I just snugged them down and 1/4 turn more which was about what they were tightened to...I am aware that a swivel will affect torque based upon angle... but since the angle is small you can add 10% or so and be done with it
spec is 14ftl lbs so barely tight
the code has not returned, it typically showed up in the first 10-14 mins of driving so I think we are good to go here...
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you can use a torque wrench
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If you ever have to replace them, Subaru states to take the intake off....yeah, no.
here is how you do it
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove Engine cover (if you still have it)
3. Remove Serpentine belt, marking what side faces front of car.
4. Remove idler pully under alternator (easier access to loosen the long bolt on bottom of alternator.
5. Remove positive alternator termial, control plug, A/C sensor pressure plug. and gray plug to right of A/C pump.
6. unclip harness from black channel that is part of the engine cover bracket
7. remove engine cover bracket
8. loosen lower alternator bolt
9. remove top left alternator bolt that you loosened to remove engine cover bracket
10. remove alternator
11. Remove barometric sensor on left side of intake
12. using a 10 or 12 mm (I forgot) socket, universal joint, and 9" extension, loosen passenger side knock sensor and then rotate it a bit so you can easily unplug it, t
14. on the driver side go in to the left of the A/C compressor and
use a long screw drover to press in the clip and then tap the screw driver so the connector moves back a bit so that the lock does not re-engage
15. Go in behind the A/C compressor and remove the knock sensor bolt completely then pull the sensor up and unplug it.
to install the driver side knock sensor
16. while holding connector with one hand use a set of needle nose plyers to insert the knock sensor into the connector until it clicks.
17. insert bolt into knock sensor
***this part is the pitb if you have large hands due to limited space***
18. get the nock sensor back over the hole and use your fingers to start the bolt.. you will know if you have it when you cannot lift up on said bolt
19. while holding the knock sensor in the correct position, tighten bolt
to install the passenger side sensor
19. put bolt into sensor
20. reach in and start the bolt
21. rotate sensor so you can plug connector in
22. while holding sensor in correct position, tighten bolt
the passenger side is much easier due to lack of hard lines under intake
23. reinstall barometric sensor
24. reinstall alternator
25. reinstall front idler pully
26. reinstall serpentine belt noting what side goes towards the front of the car.
27. reinstall alternator power lead, connector, a/c pressure switch, and gray connector and clip harness back to front cover
28. reconnect battery.
29. reinstall front engine cover
Start car and verify all is working as it should
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i'm sure your anecdotal experiences at dealerships are all positive.
driving straight and true with little wear isn't all that's required for a good alignment, and I've heard countless dealership horror stories regarding alignments, including working at a Subaru dealership and seeing the horror shows first hand.
finding a shop you trust, that you know will do a good job, dealership or not, is whats most important. going for just green on the spec sheet without understanding car balance and how imbalances exacerbate themselves on the limits for grip is the sign of a bad alignment tech.
lol and I am sure your anecdotal evidence is just as good amirite?
fact is I had cars aligned outside of the Honda Acura Susbaru Ford, Chrysler dealer and more often than not, had to take it back. Take it to the local dealer, never had to go back, not even once.
so if you want to have a dick measuring contest, sit down already, you lost.
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lol all you want but I have 3 Subaru and NONE of them have ever com back from a dealer with an improper alignment when they were done... they all came back driving straight and true...and even wearing tires. The problem with places like tires plus is they work on many cars and they may or may not know what is accepted for insert car brand here...
both if the dealers that I use here have one guy that takes care of alignments and they both do an outstanding job.
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take it to get inspected and if all is well, why not? I have a 2014 and I like it a lot.
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if the replacement radio has video in for reverse camera then yes you can wire it so it will display the backup image.
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Subaru changed to MLS headgaskets on the 2010-2012 2.5i EJ253. Did Subaru still uses those on the FB25?
This is a MLS gasket as seen here:
10944AA080 is the PN and it fits 13-19 cars (legacy, outback) and Forrester 11-18 FB non turbo motors.
2016 Legacy 2.5 Premium original front brakes..
in Sixth Generation Legacy (2015 -2019 )
Posted
when I did my brakes on my 2014 it was at 60K due to a seized caliper pin brake pads were over 50% left on the good side... should have made it well past 100K but due to bad pin, did the job early.
want your brake to last? simple do not wait until the last minute to stop