ArmyVetMP
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Posts posted by ArmyVetMP
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I don't have a 6th Gen, but I have 242,xxx on my 2010 Legacy. Bought it used in December 2014 with 28k on the clock.
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StreetSpeed717
GuitarmageddonZL1
South Main Auto
Doug DeMuro
Stradman
I burn way too much data every month watchin Youtube videos (50-70gb a month....) lol
Update: While I still watch the above channels, I have since joined the lovely world of home ownership so my preferences have changed a bit. Now I watch a lot of the usual Automotive channels, but have added others.
This Old House
The Lawn Care Nut (Allyn Hane)
The Pest and Lawn Ginga
GCI Turf Services
I actually watch the Lawn care channels more now than I do the Automotive.
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I should probably check my Spark Plugs and such.. I'm at 237k miles on my Legacy and to my knowledge, have never had the spark plugs changed.... lmao
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I have always ran the Continental DWS tires (I had the ExtremeContact DWS on my 2008 Impreza, and have used the PureContact w EcoPlus Tech on my 2010 Legacy). The PureContact tires are a very comfortable ride, and I get better than "rated" MPG's on the highway (averaging between 30mpg and 32mpg, or about 550 miles to a tank). This last winter was rather lame as far as snow was concerned, though the little we did get here in CT, I had zero issues with.
Otherwise, I generally switch over to dedicated Snow tires in the winter, using Continental ExtremeWinterContact tires on a set of Steel rims, which when mounted on the Subaru, are nearly unstoppable.
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Just had the Timing Belt replaced for the 2nd time on my 2010 Legacy. Had an Oil Change and Takata Airbag Recall done at the same time. Car is 218,000 miles strong!
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I have a 2010 Legacy 2.5i, I have shut off the TC on mine and even with the CVT I have been able to have some fun in the snow. Have been able to drift around some corners, some good controlled slides and all.
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2014 2.5i rolling over 93K miles any day now. No issues other than the occasional very-slight dip in RPM when coming to a complete stop. Has never stalled or done anything else strange.
I'm concerned it will die at 101k and effectively total the car. Anyone know what replacement costs might run either at a dealer or aftermarket for if it fails after the 100k warranty?
The car is paid off and I feel like it makes sense to try and keep driving it a while. It's 95% highway miles and will continue to be a commuter.
Should I sell it at 99K miles and cut my losses?
I have 217k on my 2010 Legacy, with zero issues. CVT and Engine have been solid for me over the last 5 years of ownership, averaging a good 40,000 miles a year. I'm getting it in this week for a new Timing Belt (2nd one for the car), but that is routine maintenance. I would not be afraid of the car, nor the CVT.
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Hmm, Been a member of the Forums for a number of years now but just now seeing this post.
2010 Legacy 2.5i, Sky Blue Metallic
214,000 (ish) miles, bought it 5 years ago with 28k on the odometer
I served 8 years in the U.S. Army, Military Police. Now do Armed Security for a major DoD Contractor which Designs, Engineers, and Manufactures Nuclear Submarines for the U.S. Navy.
No mods on the vehicle aside from converting interior lights to LED's.
This is my 2nd Subaru, my first being a 2008 Impreza 2.5i 5 speed manual.
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Lmao! Hope that is on a Repo Truck and not a normal Tow Truck. lol
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StreetSpeed717
GuitarmageddonZL1
South Main Auto
Doug DeMuro
Stradman
I burn way too much data every month watchin Youtube videos (50-70gb a month....) lol
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I have Personalized CT Veterans Plates "IRAQ-MP"
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Alright, this is driving me crazy. Somebody please explain.
Isn't "H22A" an engine? No idea.
Besides it looking like a bad photoshop job, read it backwords...
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The question is where did the Oil come from? loose fitting? oil filter? etc.. The fire can be explained by oil getting onto the Hot exhaust. Hope you get it figured out.
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If you're not going with the BFH removal method, rent one of these bad boys from your auto parts store of choice. Worked really well when I changed all the studs on my Baja, although conveniently enough, the only stud it kept slipping off of was the one that was broken. I think O'Reilly called it a GM tie rod separator or something like that, but the bottom of this one hooks onto the back of the hub flange pretty well.
http://i1.adis.ws/i/washford/695494?w=637&h=403
Thanks for the advice. I went with the BFH.. lol. 3 or 4 whacks and the broken stud was out. Slipped in the new one, put a few washers and an oversized nut on it then one of the lug nuts and pulled it into the Hub till it was seated. Actually ended up changing a 2nd stud as well as the tip of the stud broke off and was stuck in the nut. Good thing I planned ahead and bought a couple extra. Legit took me about 10 minutes to do. Took me longer to get all the tools I needed, jack the car up, etc.
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Wasn't today, but on Friday I was going to change over from my Snow tires to my All-Seasons for the summer, Snapped a damn Lug on the front passenger side tire.... Picked up a couple replacement studs to replace the broken one and have a few extra just incase. Going to fix the bastard tomorrow morning.
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Be careful with Aftermarket Cat's. Subaru's are super sensitive to aftermarket Cat Converters. I replaced mine on my 2010 Legacy last year, only to have it go bad within a year. Somethin with the engine programming and what not is what I was told.
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Wish I could buy a nice new AR rifle.. Sucks living in Commienecticut...
I would have to buy something Pre-Ban, which currently are running around $2k or more...
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Anyone know whats up with Autozone in Milford Connecticut? Across from Dan Perkins Subaru... always see 3 or 4 LGTs and some WRXs parked with no one around.
Dan Perkins is fairly small, maybe using it for a spill over lot?
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Hello everyone, new to the forums and I am in need of your help. I have a 2013 2.5i legacy limited that is experiencing the solid check engine light, flashing brake, and cruise control.
This now my 2nd occurrence with this issue, the 1st time the problem went away when I replaced the gas cap with one from Advanced auto parts and I thought the issue was resolved in the past two months that had gone by. Today while driving to work the car was fine and then out of nowhere the same issue returned.
I pulled over shutdown the car and re-tighten the gas cap and the problem persisted.
I visited AutoZone on the way home from work and had them do a data port readout and I am showing the following codes:
P0700 = Transmission Control System
P2750 = Intermediate shaft speed sensor
****Update****
I decided to try one more time to re-tighten the gas cap and the lights have now cleared.
However I am concerned about the codes that showed up and this issue occurring twice now.
Do I have a transmission problem? Or what else is going on with the fuel neck inlet?
Thanks,
Josh
If the issue was the Fuel Cap not being tight enough, thus tripping the CEL. you would have a Code related to the EVAP System, NOT the Transmission.
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Hello Army Vet,
I took my care in for servicing the cvt. I had experienced significant shuddering of the engine, almost stalling, when coming to a stop. Since I could not reproduce the problem while at the dealer, they refused to make any changes. Also the shuddering has not happened since. ��
My question is how did the dealer determine to replace the converter? What symptoms was the car showing?
Thanks.
I'm also looking for this solution. My legacy 2013 exhibits weird conditions (droning when you leave the gas pedal from 40km/h to 15km/h and overall lag)My 2010 Legacy 2.5i w CVT had started to stall upon coming to a stop, usually on a more abrupt/quick stop, or after traveling up a steep hill. As I would come to a stop, the car would stutter then stall, usually once I was below 15mph or so and the RPM's got down around 1k or below. I brought the vehicle in for an Oil Change and explained what my issue was. They Diagnosed it and replaced the Torque Converter. I had to pay out of pocket for the repair, but the day after I picked up my car from the Dealer, I received the Warranty Extension notice from Subaru (pure coincidence). I filled out the paperwork, made a copy of the Subaru Work Order, then mailed it in. I believe it took like 2 weeks, but I received an Email stating that my Warranty claim had been approved and a few days later I received a check in the mail reimbursing me for the expense.
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I have 181,xxx miles on my 2010 Legacy w CVT. I had the Torque Converter replaced a few months back, covered under the extended Warranty for the CVT. Aside from that, I have had zero issues with the transmission, and for the most part, it has been a solid car.
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I use Invisible Glass myself. Though over time, my windows usually end up getting fogged up/grimy. Unfortunately this fog/grime is an inevitable after effect of using cleaners/protectants on the Dash Board. These Cleaners/Protectants will eventually evaporate from the dashboard, and with the windshield right there, deposit on the glass...
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Previously, I have gone a couple hundred miles on a spare. Hit a large piece of metal on the highway that blew out my front tire and bent the rim. Had to order a new Tire/Rim, and had to wait like a week for it to show up. I Commute about 110 miles round trip every day for work. Ran on the donut for about 9 days, speeds up to 75mph (oops)... Thankfully I was lucky and had no damage caused to the vehicle from the difference in tires and such. The spare donut has a sticker on it stating not to exceed 55mph, and it is recommended not to driver more than 50 miles on a donut.
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You're waving at too many n/a Impreza owners. They wouldn't recognize another Subaru if you got in a wreck with them. Restrict the waves to turbo owners and your hit rate should go way up. Helps if you're not on the stock wheels. Remember, they aren't used to noticing Legacies, but they're friendly enough if you can get their attention.
Hey.. lol.. I had an N/A Impreza and always waved at other Subaru owners. Now drive a N/A Legacy and still wave.
High Mileage Legacy's
in Sixth Generation Legacy (2015 -2019 )
Posted