oaklandmiLGT

So i bought a 2 gauge and garmin post gauge pod about a week ago, i bought a case for my galaxy s5 to attach it to the garmin post and ran btssm on my phone. The setup was great. I was making my way down a bumpy dirt road today when the garmin post decided to break where the ball meets the post. I went home and drilled through the head of the ball and have a screw going through to the post, it isnt pretty but it seems to work. Just for future prints of this you may want to design it so the screw holding the post to the gauge pod goes nearly all the way through the post to the tip of it to add some rigidity. Ill add some pics of where it broke.http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/19/12139889108b65ae86723796c19b9852.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/19/88fe23fd944b917b993790204de094e7.jpg

Wow I just went through all 81 pages. I've even inquired with some vendors.

 

07 Legacy Wagon GT

 

Goal: Near OEM ride height (+/- 0.5" of ride height forgiveness) while retaining a stiffer overall suspension setup.

 

From what I've read:

1. Go with H&R Sport springs with KyBs

2. Go with H&R Sport springs with Konis

 

If choosing 1 or 2, use a 3/8 or taller lift spacer for the rear. Using 1 or 2 leaves the option for using aftermarket anti-roll bars as well.

 

3. If baller status, go with Feal Coilovers with full suspension height available.

4. Go with Rallitek springs w/KYBs

 

If going 3 or 4, lift spacer not required, but aftermarket anti-roll bars are NOT recommended with the Rallitek springs.

 

All setups should allow for 18 x 8 wheels without fender rolling.

 

It took me A LOT of sorting just to find proper ride height photos.

Why feal coilovers? Theres a thread on here basically saying theyre the same crap as bc, isc, ect.. if youre going coils it seems the good choice would be something like kw v2. But still coils are overkill if you just want a stiffer ride for street use.

 

IMO out of all these options hr springs with konis is your best bet. I would say get epic engineering springs or eibach pro kit springs but good luck finding those.

 

I went with progress lowering springs and kyb gr2 struts a month or so ago. The springs are great, you feel everything and the handling is much more neutral than stock. I live in michigan so the roads are crap, and although you feel most of the imperfections in the road, the ride isnt jarring. Ive never had a passenger complain. Really my only complaint, which isnt even a complaint about them, is that the bottom coils of the springs will make contact with each other and you can hear it sometimes. You can just coat the bottom coils in rubber to avoid this or get something like the rubber sleeves tien makes. I just let it be and everything is fine. i only notice it with the radio off and windows down while driving at low speeds.

 

I am not as happy with the kyb gr2 struts. I wish i had gone with koni because these struts just dont feel like a good pair with lowering springs. Im no suspension expert but these struts feel under dampened like they cant keep up with the springs. usually it isnt an issue but if youre attacking a corner and hit a pavement change or bumpy section it doesnt stay as planted as it should.

Still loving my progress springs! Neutral handling, not too low (survives michigan roads) and not a bad pair with kyb gr2 (still get konis tho)

I believe others have stated this in the early pages of this thread but i wouldnt want someone to miss this info now that our cars are high mileage and our ball joints are more of a pain to work with. There is a way to replace front cv axles without touching your ball joints. Ill list how i did it step by step. I will start with the disclaimer of: if you dont have an impact you will have to remove the axle nut a different way. Such as removing it while a friend holds the brakes for you.

But besides that, here is my method.

 

*edit* this is obvious but jack the front of the car up and put it on jack stands.

 

1. Remove wheel

2. Mark camber bolt position

3. Disconnect abs line and flex hose from strut.

4. Disconnect strut from hub

5. Remove caliper from rotor/hub

6. Impact off your axle nut, no need to try and round out the pushed in part of the nut, the impact took care of it.

7. Now you have enough room to knock the axle out of the hub with a wooden mallet or a big hammer and some wood in between the two. Once that side is out pry out the differential side of the axle.

*you will lose a small amount of trans fluid. Also be careful when removing/installing axle into diff because you can mess up the seal.

8.Now just reverse the steps. Put some gear oil on the part of the axle that enters the diff. Put the axle into the diff THEN the hub.

9.To get the axle nut tightened back on i first re attached the strut to the hub, the flex hose and abs line to strut and the caliper to the hub. Then i had a friend hold the brakes while i torqued the axle nut.

 

I have done this to both sides and its a quick, easy method. I used a1 cardone remans and one has been on for a year so far with no problems. The other just got installed yesterday but no problems with it.

I have an 07 gt manual trans and both front axles were the same pn. The seals were different from left to right though.

I had to use a 17mm socket holding it with vice grips and an allen through the center. I tightened it like that as much as i could off the car but still the spring could move around a tad so i installed them (im talking abou the rears btw) and tried to torque them when they were installed and that didnt work. My buddy is going to bring over a pass through wrench this morning. hopefully i can snug down the nut in the car so i dont have to take them out again.

so if i torque the strut rod nut with the car on the ground the strut rod wont spin?

Theyre better than i expected. They actually give it some tone as opposed to the hogzhaust which is just loud. And with the rest of my exhaust stock it really isnt too loud. I havent had any neighbors complain about cold starts although i can faintly hear it running throughout the house. I havent really noticed any drone but i dont drive on highways much so im never at a certain rpm for an extended time.

I can make a video if you'd like.

It ended up getting annoying so i got nameless performance muffler deletes and it actually has some tone to it now.

But yeah the cans basically were off seeing i had 3 washers per bolt, it just looked a tad better than no cans.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSSv3xta0mI

I have a video on youtube of an all stock legacy gt with 3 washer per bolt hogzhaust if you wanna hear it?

Hoping it will, just want more noise! Did yours seem to crackle and back fire at all when you had it on?

Mine crackled and popped when i hogzhausted it

Well thats a relief. Thankyou!

So, Im a bit of a noob, I've worked on cars a bit but still need to learn alot. I don't mean to jack this thread, if this isn't the place to post this i am sorry.

I believe I have a boost leak. the engine is completely stock, and i have a boost gauge reading off the bpv reference hose (I think its called that). Lately I am reading 10 to 11 peak psi when it should be at 13.5psi. I have re sealed the fittings leading to the gauge because those used to be sealed poorly, and still 10 to 11 psi. I checked all the hose connections i could without taking anything apart and haven't found anything unconnected or any hoses that seem to have a hole or big crack. For a day the weather decided to get into the 30s (michigan) and all of a sudden i started to read 13.5 psi. Then it got cold out again (under 20) and my peak boost is once again around 11 psi. Therefore, I'm thinking some of the rubber has gotten old enough that at low temperatures it is no longer pliable enough to create a seal. Does that sound like it could be the case? Regardless if it is the case or not, what is a good way to check for leaks?

Im not necessarily looking to swap interior but i figured this would be a thread full of people who have the answer to my question. What would 07 leather, all power, heated front seats sell for? Im contemplating switching to sti seats

If you install a higher voltage and wattage bulb than recomended will that allow too much energy to flow, allowing the wires and/or bulb to get too hot?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSSv3xta0mI&feature=youtu.be

3 washers per bolt may be a tad too much, im gonna go down to 2 per bolt.

so, i want to make sure im getting this right. to do this install all you need is the koni front inserts, rear strut assemblies, oem front and rear struts to supply all the oem parts listed and springs? and for all the oem parts required such as bump stop, dust guard, top mount, conical washer and spring seat, can you take these off your stock struts and re use them? Im guessing it wouldn't be ideal but could you use oem springs in this set up?