dohclgt

I hope you come back and say the STI trans swaps right in, and we all should go out and get one. Done.

Dohclgt, I was at my local suspension specialist today (related to my 80 series Cruiser, not Subaru), I mentioned your issue with stability after installing RCA kit, he suggested that if at or near OEM ride height then too much of a steep angle on the control arm and tie rods will give you this symptom, plus the zero toe induces this instability even further.

 

Thanks for confirming this info! I still haven't decided on putting back the h&r Springs or leave the Eibach..

There is no way that its the springs causing that. Swap the stick ball joints back in.

 

As far as the pop. Are you sure its not coming from the right rear?

 

Im pretty sure it's not the rear. I cold feel the vibration through my steering wheel when it makes that sound. I'll probably leave the ball joint but I'll swap back in the OEM tie rod ends. At least I can sell the H&R springs and the whiteline tie rod ends if anything..

Well, a little update on the current setup. I absolutely hate how the car drives currently. It's so twitchy and it sways left and right if there's any unevenness on the road. It's NOT pulling left or right though. I don't feel like the car wants to spin out or anything though. But I have no confidence in the car atm. (This feel is NOT the same as bad alignment. I drove it without an alignment before and I could feel the car pulling left/right and wants to spin out.) Not like before where I have total cockiness driving even in the rain! It's like having bump steer with the added twitchiness to it. Im guessing the combination of not lowered enough with the softer spring rates is causing this (as someone has mentioned).

 

Anyways, once I get back from this trip, I'll have to fix this problem. I'm liking the softer ride of the Eibach as a daily for me and the fam. I like the stiffer ride of the H&R when Im by myself doing some spirit driving. I also like the lower look too! I can go about it two ways:

1, I can put back my H&R springs and see if the bump steer/twitchiness goes away or

2, I can leave the Eibach but use my new OEM tie rod ends.

Either way I'll find out which one is the culprit, learning experience I guess.. lol

 

The thing is, I feel like the ball joint is doing a great job because I feel Less bouncy during turns and more stability DURING cornering. Turning seems to be more precise. But then again that could've been in my head... I'll see if I can feel the same difference once the H&Rs are back in.

 

 

Don't know how I went from trying to find that clunk/pop sound to stability and twitchyness of the car 0.o ... Still on that though!

I believe the Whiteline roll center kit is specifically for cars lowered 1" or more. If you're on Eibachs, then you're lowered less than an inch, correct? Something like 0.8"?

 

YOu have a point. I overlooked this. But eibach sags over time to like 1" or so (or so I've researched..). Plus I didn't think .2" makes a difference. I'll probably put back the H&R springs and see how that does.

 

From underneath though, the angle of the LCA and steering rods look straight!

That doesn't sound right, it should improve the front end noticeably, are you saying you are getting bump steer? What did you set your toe to? If you zeroed it all round you will notice it is very twitchy and less stable in straight ahead, turning response is awesome though so you just get used to the twitchyness!

 

Yes, bump steer is the word. It's not bad, but I can feel it. Before the Eibach and before the RCK, my steering was solid. No bumps or dips could move or "steer" my steering wheel.

 

Yup, I zeroed out all the toes.

 

A little update, I put back the LCA and got the car aligned. I needed the car for a mini family trip this weekend so I couldnt wait for the bushing to come in. Anyways, driving the car all day today and I gotta say, i DO NOT like this whiteline roll center kit thing. My steering feels so twitchy. Every decent bumps and my steering would jerk. It was not like that before this kit. Even when I was lowered on H&R springs. Is this normal or am i missing something here?

Don't change the front/horizontal bushing. Just the rear/vertical one, whatever you do!

 

Can you explain why? Or point me in the right the direction on where to find that answer?

So, the AVO bushing still hasnt come in yet, but I went ahead and took the control arm out to inspect the bushing first. To my surprise, the bushings look solid. No rip or tear or anything that would give me a clue that it's the cause of that clunk pop sound... Im beginning to think it might not be it. However, I used my jack to push up against the balljoint, moving the entire spindle up. I basically compressed the springs, putting load of it. I turned the spindle left, right and I hear this clicking sound. Surprise! It came from the axle! I am now thinking it could be the axle?? Anyways, I'll diagnose one thing at a time. The bushing will go in next and then I'll go from there.

Have you guys checked the location of the very end of the bottom coil of the spring?

 

 

Norm

 

Yup, I checked everything. Nothing related to the strut, springs, top hat etc that i can tell..

My next car in 2020..

 

http://www.motorauthority.com/news/1107644_all-wheel-drive-2017-dodge-challenger-gt-debuts

 

Finished the install. The rears were more of a pita than the front but still easy.

 

H&R setup

 

Top hat with the washer.

 

No visible length difference..

 

 

 

Seems like they're the same length..

 

All in.

 

 

 

Test drove it. I'm now certain it's the LCA. Installing these springs did not change the tone of the pop/clunk sound like changing the ball joint did.

The EIbach springs seemed stiffer than the h&r, maybe because it's new? Other than that, I can't really tell the difference between the two. I definitely need more drive time to tell though. The Eibach springs made the car looks so high again but my lady likes it because I didn't scrape my rally flaps going out our driveway lol..

 

Next up, LCA bushing. :spin:

The question I have is: which spring do you ultimately want to run? If it's the Eibachs, then fine, install them. If it's the H&Rs, then leave them investigate more likely culprits.

 

Good point. Well, since I already bought the Eibach for such a great deal, I'll try them out see how they ride. Brb, installing them now.

Why don't you do the AVO bushings first? If that fixes it, then you haven't wasted a buttload of time and effort swapping the front springs, and you can just leave the H&R's in.

 

That is a good idea.

The truth is, Im just dreading the install of the bushing into the LCA.. Furthermore, I have the springs here. I can install the springs within a few hours easily compared to the LCA. I have to find a reputable shop locally to press them in correctly. I guess I'm just hoping it's NOT the lca.

OK, so, update:

 

The pop sound came back this morning as I pull out of my driveway. It made a louder pop sound this time. Also, it's more frequent. I can somewhat replicate it when I want to. So I'm beginning to think it's the left LCA (Just like GTEASER and other members suggested). I think the ball joints have caused the LCAs' geometry to be different causing the pop noise more often.

 

So, I'm going to go ahead and install the Eibach springs as planned anyways, just to be sure it's not the springs binding. Then I'm going to install the LCA bushings and go from there..

 

BTW, I definitely need an alignment after installing the Roll Center Kit. My alignment is so off it's scary driving the car. I could smell my two front tires burning off after a short drive!

So I've been driving around a bit today, my normal routes and so far no clunk/pop sound yet!

 

 

On a side note my Eibach Springs came in today!!

 

Glad to know they're made in the USofA!

 

 

I won't be installing these yet if ever as long as there's no clunk/pop noise. If the sound comes back, I will be installing these, pursuing to find the cause of that stupiiid noise!

Found this thread, do all these tq specs apply to our 5th gen?

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/steering-knuckle-torque-specs-138423.html

So, I just finished the whiteline roll center kit. Started at 10pm and finished at 12am. This is me taking my time inspecting everything else AGAIN to see if I missed anything that could have caused that stupid sound.

 

 

Im still suspecting it's the H&R spring binding...

 

Bushing looks good still. So many suspects..

 

My new tie rod ends, only like a damn month old.. -.-

 

Same with my ball joint.. Anti-seize made my life alot easier than the first time removing it..

 

Torqued the ball joint to 40ft/lb (I know its like 37ft/lb but i just rounded it off..)

and the tie rod ends to 30ft/lb (Feels like 19.9ft/lb just isnt tight enough or did I got wrong tq specs??)

Got my kca313 roll center kit. Looks really nice. I was planning on getting the superpro but since there was a sale, picked these up instead. Will try SuperPro kit after these fails lol..

 

Edit: I was able to cancel the OEM LCA I ordered yesterday. In turn, I ordered the AVO Caster bushing kit as recommended by Gteaser and others. http://www.avoturboworld.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/128

...are you guys talking about when you back up out of a spot and drive off a bit and there's a thunk noise?

 

Yup. But mine will make that noise going forward while turning without backing up. Weird thing is, it doesn't make any noise going over bumps. I have sped up speed bumps trying to replicate the noise, but nothing. Still can't make that noise on command..

If it's the design of the stock front LCA rear bushings that is the inherent issue, you're just wasting money on those new LCA's. I would pick up the AVO hard bushings and get those installed. You shouldn't need an alignment after that install unless you go with ones that give you additional caster. I really think that they are the culprit. blklgt05 has had these installed on his 2010 GT since it was almost new and he loves them.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/129

http://www.avoturboworld.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/128

 

damn it, good idea. I'll see if I can still cancel them.

 

Which do you suggest? It seems that more caster is better for our car? Caster compensates for camber, therefore, I can run less camber but still have the same handling characteristics but less wear on the tires? According to my research at least.

Interesting. Ever since I lowered my car on the H&R's and installed the Koni's I have had that pop on the left side too. At first it only happened once every week or two when I was turning in or pulling out of my driveway. Now it happens at least once daily, usually multiple times, and it seems louder. Only slow speed stuff like pulling into parking spaces and low speed parking lot maneuvers when turning the wheel significantly. I too have looked all around and cannot find anything weird, loose or visibly worn.

YES! Sounds exactly like mine. Here's something funny tho, If you jack up the car, maybe take off the wheels, go underneath and wiggle things here and there, that pop sound won't come back for a few days. Then BAM! same damn sound.

 

 

Just want to chime in that if you're considering swapping out the springs, the Eibach's are still at $92.75, easily the cheapest spring option for us right now. You just have to call Eibach directly to get the price. Part number 7722.140

 

http://eibach.com/america/en/performance-suspension/closeout

Thank you, I'm on it LOL.

 

 

I also get that on the koni/stock springs as well. Only happens on super slow turns or when I am fully stopped. I had AZP check to see if anything was binding and they couldn't find anything either. Regardless they sprayed the car down. i just figured it was something I would live with so I haven't checked if it went away. I will confirm this afternoon

 

I thought something was wrong with the car as well, I have had 2 shops check and neither has found anything to cause this.

 

Could this be a product of the koni's on our inserts? Or possibly the tophat isn't quite meant to fit? (I know the rears need to be drilled out a bit)

My rears are perfect, no noise no nothing. Just that one left front side. I wish I could live with it, but it bugs me too much. Get back to us if you figured it out!

 

 

 

I personally don't believe so. I can verify this hopefully in the coming month or two as I have a set of AST coilovers I will be installing. If the sound goes away after my install, then it can be attributed to the Koni's. If not, well then we are still looking for the source.

 

I believe it is the lower rear LCA bushing, the hockey puck. The sound for me seems to be coming from down by my feet, and I can feel it there. If the sound still persists after my coilover install, then my next course of action was going to be installing front AVO rear LCA bushings.

You are spot on with where the sound is coming from. I could feel it by my feet!

 

Sounds like the same noise I had when I put mine in. For me, it came down to the tophat not on correctly plus the torque on the nut at the top of strut. The misalignment was causing a bind when turning. I didn't relize when I put them in like I have countless others, that the H&R springs, to sit right, don't sit in the same indentation up top as the oem did. Was almost 180 degrees off. Plus I think I ended up have to use the oem nut on the top of the strut do to the one that came with the koni's binding on the bearing in the top hat?

I've checked the top hat so many times. ALso, when when you install the top hat incorrectly, it does not make the same noise as what I'm experiencing. Also, if you install the top hat washer incorrectly, it wont make the same sound.

 

Mine popped a few times this summer, but only when backing up and turning left. Maybe the steering rack binding up?

I thougt about this one too, hence, I got the whiteline kca313 roll center kit to fix the geometry.

 

Mine did it on the stock suspension and continues to do it on the Koni. Mostly when reversing out of my driveway with the wheel turned right. Definitely coming from the front left, as Gteaser said almost from the area under my feet.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

I didn't have this problem with the stock suspension at all.

You guys do not know how relieved I am to know im not the only one.. I have taken apart my top hats at least 5 to 6 times just to check and triple check. Im certain that I installed it correctly. I then even bought new top hats and still the same pop clunk sound. Its a single, mild but distinct sound. Changing the top hat did not change the sound at all so that's what made me conclude it's not the top hat. I absolutely hate that stupid sound so I'm determined to figure out what cause it. Next course of action is changing out more parts one by one until I dont get that sound anymore.

 

course of action;

I already ordered the kca313 whiteline roll center kit should be here today, I will install it asap and get an alignment again.. Like someone stated, it could be because the changed geometry of the LCAs since I'm lowered, this should fix that.

 

 

If the above doesn't work, I just ordered two new oem front LCA (since there's a black friday sale..LOL), I will change them out.

 

If that doesn't work, I will change out the springs to Eibach (Will order since it's only $100...). Side note, I noticed the RCE blacks, and Eibach springs have the spring insulators? Anyways, can't find those on ebay or any website

 

If that doesn work, I will change out the konis, and see if that's the problem.

Here's a youtube video that got me thinking..

But then, why just one side? Plus I don't think koni shocks have the same design?

 

I'll try a different top hat if ALL above dont work :mad:

Yes bushings, when torqued at the factory they are zeroed at kerb weight, allowing a few degrees of arm deflection in either direction. When you lower your ride height the bushings will require re-zeroing so they can again have that same range of deflection, if not done they will be fighting against the weight of the car and suspension travel wearing out faster or even tearing.

Its especially important with the rear given there are so many bushings, 8 per side compared to only 1 at the front!

 

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Crap, I didn't know about this at all. Can you please explain exactly how you did it? Thanks

Forgot, I checked my motor mounts and trans mounts too since someone mentioned it could be the bad mount causing the motor and trans to move around but mine are still very good. I re-torqued all bolts to be sure too...