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Charlie Tango

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Posts posted by Charlie Tango

  1. On 10/11/2023 at 10:07 AM, tehspud said:

    Tire Rack - https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/suspension.jsp?make=Bilstein&model=B8+Performance+Plus+Strut&group=B8+HD+Shock&partNum=35-118336&autoMake=Subaru&autoModel=Legacy+Wagon+2.5+GT&autoYear=2005&autoModClar=Limited

    Mach V Motorsports. I'd email them first to make sure, but I'm pretty sure the set they sell are B8s - https://www.fastwrx.com/collections/shocks-struts/products/bilstein-struts-2005-2009-legacy-gt

    Summit Racing, suprisingly. Though looks like the rears are "special order" so that could take a while - https://www.summitracing.com/search/year/2005/make/subaru/model/legacy/department/chassis-suspension/brand/bilstein/part-type/shocks-and-struts?fr=part-type

     

    You can also grab the part numbers off Tire Rack and search around, see if there's more. Seems like these are getting harder and harder to find. Remember you do also need to get the Spec-B Top Hats for the fronts. 

    Thank you both so much! This is awesome and I think I will be going with the B8s to better pair with my STi Pinks

     

    • Like 1
  2. 10 hours ago, ScottFW said:

    Mine flickered due to the reverse switch in the 5-spd. Started happening around 250K miles I would guess. There were no broken wires. It seems possible that it failed due to gradual ingress of gear oil. Not sure, but I took it out and flushed it out real good with MAF sensor cleaner while working the switch in & out, let it dry then reinstalled. The reverse lights then worked flicker free for about a month, but then got flickery again and eventually completely failed to come on. At least my little experiment confirmed the switch was the culprit, and it's pretty easy to access for replacement so no major effort was expended. I went with a new OEM switch and it has worked normally since.

    When you say "switch" where is it located? Screwed into the trans? 

  3. On 9/29/2023 at 3:31 PM, KZJonny said:

    I don't think you'll *really* be able to find OE Bilstiens except for dealership perhaps, and that will be silly expensive.

    B6s are essentially equivalent, tho not quite from my understanding. Maybe a little more aggressively valved? I really do not know. But they are available at Rock Auto for a fairly reasonable price, which is kind of nice.

     

    If going to a lowered setup, then yeah... B8s for sure. Still far more comfortable and plush w/good handling character than any set of coilovers in the same price range.

     

    Where is the best place to purchase B8s?

     

  4. 18 hours ago, relative4 said:

    The tailgate wiring harness is the source of many evils.  However, OP does not have a wagon, and even if he did, his symptoms are not consistent with tailgate wiring issues.  The key is "If i put my shifter in one specific spot, they work."

    The problem is at the reverse light switch on the transmission.  Which is not necessarily to say it is the switch itself.  A lobe in the transmission operates the switch, and that lobe wears down a bit after like 200K miles.  In which case you need a thinner washer on the switch.  

    Do your diligence - test the switch itself, test operation while shifting in and out of reverse.

    Thanks for the attention to details. I appreciate everyones responses. I figure based on my research it's the swtich inside the transmission based on my symptoms. I will get under there this wknd and look. Are you saying the lobe wears down and a thinner washer will extend the lobe deeper into the trans where it needs to go? 

  5. Hay, 

    This has been an issue for a few years, and as I was trying to back up an on ramp in the dark a couple days ago cuz traffic was dead stopped on my way to work and could barely see, I decided I'm gunna try to address the issue. 

    When I put my car in reverse, the backup lights flicker in and out and sometimes don't even work. If i put my shifter in one specific spot, they work. 

    Based on my research, this could be due to a switch in the transmission. Is this correct? 

     

    Thanks! 

  6. 2 hours ago, KZJonny said:

    Ugh... I can't remember the name right now, but one of the east coast engine builders also sells sets of B8 struts for a good price. If it clicks and I remembers, I'll post it up. I want to say they were ~$200 USD/corner.

    Meant to bookmark it, because I'll probably be going that route when mine get tired, but I'd also consider the B6's as well. (What I have on now, and perfectly fine for the crap roads where I live. Going low in not an option around here...)

    What makes you conflicted between the B6 and B8?

  7. Thanks for the discussion. I'll look into the B8 stuff. I've def. read numerous article, but just trying to get to the point. I found a really good write-up on this site about the Pinks with HDs and a 20mm sway bar. 

    It's been my daily driver since I bought it, but that is going to change after graduation next year. I live in/around the WNC mtns, so I want it to stick to the road in the curves for those Parkway cruises. 

  8. Hey, it's me. 

    After driving my 2007 spec.B for 124k miles and for 10 years (in a couple days), it's time to replace the struts. 

    I replaced the springs with STi Pinks 2 Thanksgivings ago, and I should've replaced the struts, but, dental school is very expensive. 

    I want to go with Bilstein HD to preserve the spec.B heritage.  

    Does somebody have a part #?

    And can somebody else try to talk me out of it? 

    Thanks! 

  9. V tru! I forgot about that, but also have a AEM CAI that I modified the box on when Phatron tuned it back in the day. Currently don't have any stock parts to modify. I'll look into it.

     

    You do realize, the car came with a very good cold air intake... ?

     

    Unless your making well over 350whp, the stock 0ne is fine.

     

    [ATTACH]295846[/ATTACH]

  10. Who has made a custom intake port to suck air from outside the front bumper and directly into a box for cool, clean air not coming from around a v hot engine? My car is pushing 194k and I've had it for over a decade and I'm ready to play with it a lil without worrying about messing it up.

    Thinking about creating a port underneath the headlight on the passenger side and piping to a sealed box. I've seen this done on other cars, but hard to find info on the '07 leggys.

    Thanks!

  11. Quiet update I promised from pg. #9

     

    Had a Subaru specialty shop do my valve cover gaskets. He used Toyota Seal Packing (FIPG) for the gasket, and it has been working great.

     

    Also had them do an oil analysis that came back completely clear at 179k miles, and a compression test. Everything came back amazing! So, if you get someone else to do it, cheaper option would be this while they're already in there.

     

    Lastly, still having the coolant leak from the pump on the drivers side near where the oil dipstick goes in. Waiting to hear back from them again for a water pump and possibly belt replacement.

     

    Peace!

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