Pazuzu

Update. So I replaced that broken part and also put a new fuel pressure regulator in but the problem is still there

If i was you, i know it sucks. I would check the compression, lets see those plugs while you are there. Then i would pull the downpipe and check turbo condition. That mileage if the turbo is sloppy it could be a time bomb. You can download a diagram of all the hoses and make sure they are all routed correctly. If there is anyone in your area with a tactrix cable you could really see what's going on with your car. Might even be worth it to load a stock tune into it just in case the car was previously modified and parts removed before sale. People selling cars not running well is always iffy. Who was the person you got it from? Did you get a back story at all?

 

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So I did some reading after the boost leak test and I did it wrong. The PCV hoses should have been blocked off thus explaining why the air was getting into the crankcase out the oil cap.

 

And actually I think I may have narrowed down my problem. I unplugged the boost control solenoid....and drove the car...probably not the best thing to do as you can overboost and cause damage plus that check engine light was on when I did it. But I drove it a couple miles and what do ya know, The hesitation and power surging was all gone and it ran smooth thru the entire rpm range. I do believe my problem is related to this solenoid or possible the hoses that go to it or maybe the waste gate actuator is faulty. Gotta do some more research but it does seem like the wastgate is opening and closing opening and closing every time is hesitates. And you can hear it to

Nah you will just be on wastegate boost

I cant even remember what stock wg is set to. I think its like 7 or something. The boost controller just tricks the wg into thinking there is less boost than there actually is so you can boost more than wg spring allows.

 

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Mine is doing the same thing on the drivers side. Quiet and tight after first putting them on. I don't really have a clunk, but more of a squeak and pop maybe? I'm not sure, its kind of hard to describe. I've gotten under it and checked all bolts and it still does it. Very irritating!

Check the ball joint for play if you guys suspect an issue. Found you a video

 

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Update on the Aluminum “ULTRA-POWER“ arms: they may very well be junk. Car felt super solid for the first 120 miles are so. In the last week it’s developed a clunk and pop in the front when stopping or turning. Need to get the car in the air to check, but I strongly suspect the balljoints May have already gone bad.

 

Guess you get what you pay for, just wish I hadn't dropped $500 in labor swapping them out and aligning the car to find this.

Sounds like a loose sway bar end link dude. Grab a 14mm and 1/2 in ratchet. Slide under the car (probably no need to lift it just your arm will be enough). Where the end link mounts to the countrol arm tighten that thing down good, real good. If you have after market links (moog or something) its probably a 15mm. Do both sides and then go for a drive. Mine settled like once more then i tightened again and thats been that.

 

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I just installed these with new sway bar end links, they keep squealing when I go over speed bumps. Is this normal? When i tried to replace these lca with MOOG sway bar end links, they had a lube nipple that was extremely close to rubbing onto the lca. Anyone have any inputs on this? or is this because of the new rubber?

Yeah man this has been over a few times, common mistake. You can definitely install them so the nipple faces away from the lca. Ive done the install also myself so I know personally

 

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That sucks, so running fuel pump at 66-100% all the time might overheat the wires then.

 

Do you know if the wires are thinner from the dash to FPCM too?

I doubt it will over heat them. The issue, as has been laid out in another thread, is that there is a significant volt drop with the wiring to the fpcm. Then there is more volt drop in the fpcm itself. Further more a small volt drop from fpcm to pump. After all that your pump is only getting 11.5v or something. So you never get the flow that the pump is rated for.

 

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No, I bypassed it. Been running at 100% duty cycle for almost 2yrs.(about 70k) with no issues.

 

IIRC, LGT as smaller gauge fuel pump & FPCM wires then the wrx & Sti's. Do to voltage drop off, FP never runs at 100% flow rate.

I ran a 10 gauge wire power & ground wires for the FP. And use a relay & the FPCM wires to turn on the FP when the key is turn to "RUN".

Thanks for the response hammer down. I didnt wait and wired mine last night. Good to know another lgt guy has done it first.

 

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Short answer, after installing it, the car idle fine, ran ok up to around 3k, if you pressed the throttle slowly, but the rpm's fell on it face around 4k. If you go WOT, it will lean out & almost stall out.

 

Little more detail, I get 14.2v-14.5v output from the alternator. 13.8v-14v at the FP. Put the FPC in between the Alt & FP.

 

Last 2 Email with then explains it all;

 

The returned FuelPro was received this morning and tested this afternoon. The unit is functioning fine and no issue was found with it.

I asked him to get a video off of the scope for you. The video is in two parts, first is the pwm input and second the PWM output on

a fuel pump with max. 14 Amps draw. Here is the link to the video on dropbox:

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4vinudnlitfsurb/20150511_161158.mp4?dl=0

 

Please let me know if you have further questions.

 

Best regards,

 

DCCDPRO INC.

 

Reply;

 

That's not good.

Just means I wasted more of my money, time & your time. All I know that it didn't work in my car. With over 14v supply & a 5v ECU signal. Pump voltage at start up is almost 11v. Just to shortly drop to 2.6 & max out at only 2.85v.

Dumb question, did you checkout voltage to the pump?

 

 

Whatever, if you say it's good. Return it & I will reinstall it again. And if it don't work, I guess I just have a $200 paper weight.

 

 

Good day,

End

 

FYI, they was very helpful to answer all questions & exchanged ideas to work out my issues with their FPC. But the end of the day it didn't work. On the bright side, I been running their ProDCCD controller for 8.5yrs. & over 200k miles with no issue. It's an awesome controller.

So did you do this mod or just bypass the fpcm completely? I destroyed one of the pins for the fpcm harness and I'm considering just wiring around it. I guess a few sti guys have done that.

 

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I installed these recently without the tool. Ball joints are always a b---- imo. The tool might save you a lot of cursing and frustration for sure. With that said they both came off with a BFH. One was particularly difficult. I had to take the knuckle and control arm off together and ran it over to a buddys house so I could securely hold it while he pounded on it said BFH. It gave us a struggle for a couple minutes but we won.

 

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Will 5/16 hose and some fuel injection clamps work without the quick connects?

 

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done. Please check the OP and see if you all agree now with its content .

I think that #26 is actually the oil filler neck to VC seal. I'll know for sure by the weekend as I'm almost to that part in my assembly.

 

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Awesome, just trying to get this all straight myself

 

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Ok, so I'm confident about it now, but for clarity, some edits:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Left #5, Right #10

http://i.imgur.com/j9VXz13.jpg

 

 

But that oring is not #5 its #3 in the OP,and there is 4 of them right?

You are saying its #5, but its #3?

 

#5 is 806932030 qty1 crankcase o-ring. its red, or orange, or not black (im color blind)

anyone wanna sell me a set and make something off it ?