Acerguy

A follow up on my post from last month. I did go ahead and have the dealership replace my sticky dash and they ended up doing a great job. The tech apparently spent a LOT of hours on it and I'm happy to report no scratches, dents or squeaks. Again, it was in for the airbag replacement and, while that dealership typically does not pull the whole dash for that job, they apparently gave me some credit for the labor. In the end, the part cost around $600 and with labor the whole affair cost about a grand. Maybe silly to spend that on a 13 year old car with 80k miles on it but I plan on keeping this thing for a while and it sure is nice not having a ugly, sticky dash that collects every piece of lint and dust that passes by.

Thanks. Yeah, I've confirmed that at least my local dealer does NOT remove the top of the dash for this repair currently. Unfortunately. Still undecided if I want to go ahead and get a new one or just live with it.

Good tip. I'll dig a little further. Thanks again.

 

EDIT: Found out the local dealer does NOT pull the top of the dash for this service. Boo.

FYI - I got a link to the actual procedure and it seems to indicate that the current instructions are to remove "the instrument panel assembly in addition to the related interior trim components" (see page 21). Doesn't sound like the top of the dash is actually removed.

 

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCRIT-20V003-7963.pdf?fbclid=IwAR16Gi7pz9jmDnGbPd4MlkkBHh2XtjVKQv7keRfaXq30aS0zaaU5AwcclUY

I got a link to the actual procedure and it seems to indicate that the current instructions are to remove "the instrument panel assembly in addition to the related interior trim components" (see page 21). Doesn't sound like the top of the dash is actually removed.

 

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCRIT-20V003-7963.pdf?fbclid=IwAR16Gi7pz9jmDnGbPd4MlkkBHh2XtjVKQv7keRfaXq30aS0zaaU5AwcclUY

Found out about the extended warranty coverage, shocker, ONE MONTH after it expired on my particular 2009's VIN. I have purchased a new cover at a hook up price from the good folks at my local dealership's parts department and haven't yet installed it. Do still have the second passenger inflator recall that needs to be performed so I'm probably going to get the recall done then swap dash myself to reduce any risks to the new pad. Don't know.

 

I finally made an appointment to get the 2nd airbag (passenger) recall done on my '08 Outback. I would like to get the sticky dash replaced while they're in there but it sounds like the "official" procedure does not require removing the dash for this. The local dealer is giving me a estimate for the labor of anywhere from 1 to 9 hours depending on brittleness of clips and what not.

Thanks! I didn't think to look in that thread. Yeah this seems to jibe with what I've heard elsewhere. Sure wish the original owner had done the sticky dash replacement when it was under the extended warranty bulletin. Local dealer quotes me about $600 for the dash but says that the labor could be anywhere from an hour or so to 8 or 9 depending on clips breaking and other unforeseen issues. I'm just not sure that the sticky dash bothers me THAT much.

Well, I finally made an appointment to get the 2nd airbag (passenger) recall done on my '08 Outback. I would like to get the sticky dash replaced while they're in there but there seems to be some uncertainty if the dash actually has to be fully removed for this recall. Anyone out there that's had the TKC20-2 recall performed know if the dash has to come out as part of the service? Thanks!

I finally got around to installing the 1" saggy butt spacers I've had for about a year. Brought the rear (Legacy suspension) up perfectly for my uses with just a touch of positive rake. Unfortunately, the other thing I did simultaneously was scratch the crap out of part of my tailgate when I took a break and decided to close the garage door while the lid was up and the car was on jack stands. DOH!

I've been curious about the Feal "max travel" coilovers. They don't show up on their web page but I've had some conversations with them and they do make a Legacy/OB application. http://feal-suspension6.mybigcommerce.com/coilovers-max-travel-441/?sort=featured&page=1

My favorite YT auto diagnostician, Ivan at Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, has a new Outback-specific video today! (He has an excellent video on replacing Subaru CV boots which I've posted several times before)

First I would recommend you head over to http://www.willtheyfit.com and take a look at what the stock wheel/tire setup looks like compared to what you've got. The 30mm offset with that tire size is going to be problematic without a lot of work is my guess.

 

Second would be to find the post from Thomistopheles that shows how he fit his wheels...specifically how he trimmed the fender flairs. Here you go: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/thomistopheles-06-obxt-limited-baller-husky-hauler-iii-247594.html?p=5337565#post5337565

 

Good luck!

x3. You will want the UCA and bump stops. I didn't change my bump stops at first and was constantly bottoming out on them. It's super easy to change them anyhow. Yes, they are surprisingly expensive new. I picked up all my bits from the Classifieds here. Find someone parting out a LGT and you're good to go.

 

By the way this is my first post ever on a car forum. I’ve been reading this for over a year now and finally decided to make moves and buy new rims last week and I’m so happy.

 

Welcome to the clubhouse!

Well, if you want to go lower than LGT, you probably don't want the OB-specific coilovers. Assuming the coils have built in bump stops, you'll probably ditch the stock ones altogether. I'm currently on a straight LGT swap but running stock OB-sized rubber and wheels and have no rubbing BUT I also only have about 10mm of clearance between the tire and the front spring perches.

Hi,

Sorry to revive this.

Can somebody tell me how DRL suppose to work on 2006 Legacy GT.

We want to install halos but I can not see any difference in lighting on Off; middle; On position?

Thanks!

 

Did you try this thread? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/drl-disable-10-minutes-2117.html?t=2117&highlight=disable+DRL

Yes. I meant bushings. I bought them but ran out of time when I was doing the swap. I'll install them too when I take off the snowtires. Hope this helps.

They were able to get my rear toe to zero although my camber is still slightly out (dont recall the number but it is not bad). I still have to install the camber bolts those so that should take care of it. Otherwise, I just have a straight LGT shock/strut and rear UCA swap. Could use about a 1/2" saggy butt spacer and the LGT bumpstops (when I swap my summer tires back on)

Returned home from overseas friday, first thing I did was snowboard, then throw on the STi wheels.. Hoping to pick up some jdm goodies on my trip in may.

235/40/18 Federal RSRs

 

No proper pics yet

 

 

I assume you're running adapters but how wide? That fitment looks just perfect.

 

(For those playing along at home, according to the super helpful OEM wheel database on NASIOC, those wheels are 18x8.5 et55 and are 5 x 114.3)

I have definitely gotten my money's worth. The fact that the site is not overrun with obnoxious ads is amazing. Please don't change!

Yeah they are. What you gotta do is take the flares off, then cut an inch of the fender off, pull some and then mount the flare to just the top set of holes.

 

There's this great post from Thomistopheles

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5337565&postcount=38

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/Untitled-1_zpsdjtpiy5x.jpg

Well, I just reviewed it and it's not the greatest of quality as it was in the dark garage with holding the phone in one hand and a flashlight with the other. I would suggest doing it in the light of day, lol.

Take photos before.

 

Yep. I actually took a video (complete with the previous day's paper for date verification ) Politely reminded the service writer that my dash was pretty prestine and I expected it to come out that way.

 

End results? They did a good job. No marks or scuffs. Some dust and fingerprints that weren't there before (I had detailed the dash before taking it in) but that's it. Importantly, no new squeaks. <phew!>

Yep. That's what I figured you'd have to do. Thanks for the reply.

Mine goes in on Wednesday and, yeah, my interior is in great shape right now. How will it look after they're done?