ShadowImg

Have you tried emailing him to see if he'd do a batch run given a number of orders? Then you can see if you have that many queued here. He used to be pretty responsive via email even when not active on the forums.

It matches the LCD lag on the instrument cluster, which is kind of amusing in these temperatures.

Yeah, none of those will boot the hardware unless the function is supported at the most basic level of the device though. Those all require a booted/running OS before they can perform tasks.

Using the fastboot tool you can interrogate the device options.

fastboot getvar all

 

 

If you can see the option:

(bootloader) off-mode-charge: 1

 

You can change this to:

fastboot oem off-mode-charge 0

 

I don't know if the Galaxy Tab 3 has this option, I don't believe it's a required/universal feature.

You can use a reducer to fit it to the VBG1 sender if necessary, it's ridged and should allow for a pretty big variance in hose size. A small ziptie on it will also serve as a pretty large adjustment range for hose.

Can't imagine the OD makes any difference, the ID varying somewhat shouldn't really matter unless you try to use like a 1" ID so it can't reasonably pressurize it. If you use a slightly larger ID it might account for some miniscule change in reaction based on a delay pressurizing the hose, but whatever, this isn't like human-scale measurable amounts.

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Gates-27042-Windshield-Washer-Vacuum/dp/B0002KNVPE]Amazon.com: Gates 27042 Windshield Washer and Vacuum Hose, 50ft Roll: Automotive[/ame]

 

4mm ID is pretty close to 0.17in - which is like 4.3mm.

You can get vacuum hose from any auto parts store.

There is a ground pin (pin5) on the connector, as well as the shield is grounded via the mounting posts. You should connect the shield to the board ground for noise reasons, but it would work either way.

 

I'm hung up at present because the vendor I ordered receptacles from keeps sending me the wrong ones, despite the diagram being the correct one that I ordered. Every screwed up delivery is like a 2 week round trip, so it's getting quite annoying.

The extraction was successful, now I just have to get an SMT receptacle with a suitable orientation.

 

http://i.imgur.com/o3k3cJm.jpg

Did you maybe blow debris into the tubing to the pressure sensor? If the gauge is working, I'd suspect the pressure sensor rather than the gauge.

Yup, covered before, but the JDM piece is considerably larger. 205mm wide vs 195mm or so, and taller as the area where the buttons are on the US nav is just open space. If you read back, several people have wired a remote button into the power button, which is probably a good idea. The larger bezel should give access to swiping from the edge as well as the navigation on screen buttons.

Good deal, my thought was that either you leave the bezel "loose" with a minor gap, at which point you'd likely get a rattle, otherwise the sharp edge fit "tight" would likely eventually break the screen from movement+heat+cold. I'll look into some hard rubber trim as well, but I suspect it's not going to work out unless I filled the bezel edge into a larger flat edge.

Dissected the N7 and extracted the I/O board. So far looks doable, waiting on my shipment of receptacles from digikey to arrive (today hopefully) and start planning out how to rework it. Fun fact, the N7 actually functions/boots without the I/O board even being connected, but the digitizer control is on it so you can't use any touch functions and no USB, obviously.

 

I'm also waiting on my bezel from AVOjdm, and have been looking at the pictures online which left me with a question: What are you guys doing for the fitment between the bezel and the tablet? The bezel sits on the face of the tablet, so I would think it would rattle or otherwise press the edge into the screen. I was thinking something like a rubber trim or weatherstrip would be good, but the bezel seems to be a narrow edge.

 

Are you guys leaving a small gap between it, or just fitting it tight against it? Any flex/movement/rattle issues?

Will share for sure. I was just consulting with some more surface-mount experts, and ended up ordering a small handful of vertical mount receptacles from digikey. Going to experiment a bit with various fitments and see which one works best, and then probably just solder what we would think of as a right angle receptacle straight on and out the back, but in terms of surface mount is a vertical receptacle.

 

It's helped by the fact there's nothing at all on the back panel there in the first place, so it shouldn't be a huge feat.

 

If you can borrow someone with experience in surface mount soldering, they could probably knock it out for you in <5 minutes.

Just wanted to post a thanks to everyone here, as I'm putting together a setup and the knowledge shared saves a lot of time and effort.

 

For havanahjoe, looking at the iFixit teardown of the 2013 Nexus 7 (which is what I have coming), the leads from the USB port are fairly well exposed when you remove the back cover.

 

I'm actually just going to remove the cover and attach a second port to those leads. Then I can just drill a small hole in the cover (or remove it for cooling reasons) and put a secondary port off the back.

 

Nice picture of the port and the leads: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/CAyTOSXbdnSAN4P4.huge

Does it look like it's kind of de-laminating from itself? If so, yes. There's some discussion of it earlier on in this thread. I was actually supposed to get a photo of it for him, but I could never actually capture it in a photo and forgot about it.

lossol hasn't indicated the dual input firmware to exist yet, as far as I know.

Forgot we had this thread. A bit late but I saw an 06 obp with gold wheels at Evanston Subaru around February. Younger Asian guy if I remember correctly. Was there with my fiancee getting her a 2014 Impreza

 

 

This guy? If so the car is in Evanston all the time, but I've posted spottings on here and NASIOC before, so don't think he's on forums.

I know this has been dead for quite a while, but I'm going to toss it out here because:

 

Saw a really nice 2009? silver spec.B parked on Davis St in Evanston right outside my apartment last night. Car looked really well cared for (better than mine), and nice and stock.

Forgive my ignorance, but if you go that route do you have to buy 8 of the new TPMS or can you buy 4 in addition to the OEM set and do it that way.

 

Somehow I missed all of this...

 

You can just buy 4 programmables, and program them to match the IDs of your OEMs. You will need to find a shop that has the proper programming tools first, because they cost about $1000. After that though, you don't have to screw with anything anymore.

I'm actually surprised this is still "alive" as a method. You can buy programmable TPMS sensors from Schrader and probably other brands now. You can just program both sets of TPMS to have the same IDs and not worry about all the other nonsense anymore.

Saw a gray what looked to be an 07 spec.B (judging by the wheels). on Church St @ McCormick in Evanston this evening. Gave a wave, no idea if they saw me though.

Definitely not me then, I was only as far north as Palatine.

Saw two yesterday. Gray GT wagon turning from southbound Milwaukee to eastbound Half Day. The other was a black or dark blue '08-'09 spec.B on Hicks or 83, I forget which.

 

83 like near Randhurst? Was over there yesterday, could've been me.

Yes, exactly. My plx unit and the vbg1 sending unit are both in the driver side fuse panel well

 

Were you to have time to take a picture of the setup, I would be appreciative. It seems like there's space, but I haven't quite found an orientation that would allow me to mount them cleanly without dremeling anything or screwing into panels.