Deeregamer

Think I found the smoking gun. Have no voltage on pin 18 which is my main power source for the abs module that is fed through the 30 amp fuse on the fuse pannel I now have in the glove box. Ran the probes from one end to another and I have an open circuit it seems. Guess I do suck a soldering

so I found no power at any of the wheel speed sensors on the b301 and also no power for the can communication. guess i need to follow those all back and figure out whats going on.

found the i/0 for b301 and also a diag procedure for no communication to the abs module. would be real funny if fuse 13 was dead after all this haha

Anyone find an i/o diagram for the b301 connector? Couldn't come up with one last night. I think that's where I'll find my issues.

wait scratch that. I don't have vdc at all or I missed plucking something out of the parts car

any clue where the b310 connector is? its for the vdc but seem to be a seperate module from the abs which is the 301 connector

the race wagon has alot of stuff removed, however, it still has the oem abs and key/ignition setup. That was with factory support, too.

 

Have the vaca pix yielded any help yet?

Honestly the lady and I just bought a house and it's been needing my attention more than the car has. I haven't even had a chance to re-download it to my pc and start sifting

You can also check for ABS codes. See if that can shed some light on what's going on.

 

I can't even connect to the abs unit. Tried the cluster trick and an Innova scan tool. I get er ss and er jc on the cluster and a p0600 code which is high-speed can fault. I have power at the abs fuse in the fuse pannel so I have to dig deeper into where I'm loosing signal back from the abs pump or if it's getting power at all

maybe this hack might help figure out what to change?

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/clone-your-immobilizer-chip-replacement-ecm-ecu-279426.html

 

I feel like I shouldn't have to do this with an all marching can bus system. I'll take a peek though. Thankyou!

Are the ABS modules the same between your car and the parts car? Are all the modules from the same car? Gauge cluster, BIU, ABS, ECU?

 

I'm not an expert at CAN stuff, but when I was buying my standalone I contacted Haltech about CAN compatibility with my car because Haltech is CAN compatible with a 2005 ADM Legacy 3.0. They said it wouldn't work with my car because the CAN addresses have to be figured out for each year and model of car. And they were right. I tried connecting the Haltech to my car's CAN bus and selected the ADM Legacy CAN option and it wouldn't work. No vehicle speed at the ECU, no coolant temp at the gauge cluster, errors in the gauge cluster display.

 

Everything should be from the same car as it runs and drives and does everything but give me vs. I've had 2 or 3 parts car come and go so I may have the wrong abs module though. I know I left the bcmu ecu and stalk w/ key togther though. It all came from an 06 gt sedan. BTW your car is amazing! Been keeping up on the build as best I can. I was honestly thinking about calling haltech as the have pnp ecu now but if your saying it doesn't work I guess I won't. I really need to sit down with a volt meter and check that abs plug out and see what up. I'm not the greatest with electrical diagnostic so I've tried everything I can outside of that first.

Every electrical component and wiring is from the same 06 usdm gt parts car. I never saw it run or turn on before hand as it was half way taken apart when I got it though. I wish I made it work in the other chassis to make sure everything was functioning properly before hand just so I had a constant

Kudos to you sir. The tub job cleans up the front! you must enjoy the challenge of all this which most folks would never attempt. If you merged harness, per your earlier post did that harness have a connection to the ABS?

 

I ended up canning the mismatched harness and ecu nonsense and bought a 06 parts car. Should have started there to begin with but 4 years latter here we are

Interesting build!

 

Each wheel speed signal goes to the ABS unit then vehicle speed is sent out over the CAN to the other modules.

 

So if thats the case couldn't I simply plug the board half of the abs pump back into the passenger side harness and have it pass through vs? I've been trying this with no luck so far. Also was considering a vsspro controller and finding the signal on the ecu and also the cluster to bypass the abs module entirely. The p0600 code can go away with romraider and I can deal with the er hc and ss

So since I minitubbed it I lost the original spot to put the abs pump/module. So I got a chase bays booster delete and re built the brake system. I really enjoy how it feels with spirited driving too. So with that I tucked all wiring that went along with that under the passenger side tub and used some of the original zip tie clips to hold its up above the wheel out of harms way. I have the ground hooked up on the end of that harness and the circuit board portion of the deal hooked up and mounted inside of the end of the frame so I didn't have to extend all of that wiring back into the chassis as well. I left the fuse in hopes that the abs unit would still function as usual and allow all four vss to be used still and get me a spedo signal. I didn't realize this till I got into the swap but I never saw a spedo sensor on the trans so it would make sense that the abs unit would be what is taking the vss signal and sending it back to the ecu and cluster. I'm guessing with all the nonsense I've done I'm now getting a p0600 code and con communication to the abs unit. For fun I tried a full abs unit off of another parts gt I have and still had the same issue. I guess I need to get myself into the vaca pics and try to find a pin out for the abs harness plug and see what's going on. Unless I'm misunderstanding how vs is acquired

if you pull the abs fuse, you have removed abs from the car.

Would that change the fact that I don't have a vs reading? I thought the abs unit was deriving a vs off of all four vss so it would need to be powered

Boxkita I took a look at the fuse and it checks out. Also have power coming too the fuse pannel for that 30 amp fuse. I had a little heart attack last night thinking there would be no voltage there and the dash would have to come out again as the fuse pannel is in the glove box now

did you pull the abs fuse?

 

No I haven't done that yet. I can do that tonight and see if its blown and also check it with meter to be sure. I've been fixing so many other gremlins that I just started diving into the abs:spin:

Also looking back my knowledge of this chassis was cringy to say the least. If you answered any of my questions you have an immense amount of patience for stupidity. I appreciate you

So it's been a while but I finally have the car back togther! Just having a few issues that are stopping me from getting a etune. Im getting an er hc and er ss with the abs light and a check engine light code p0600. Also the spedo does not work which is the only part that is stopping me from getting it tuned. I have to back up a bit though. The car has been mini tubbed, brake booster has been deleted, abs has been deleted (I disassembled the abs pump and reconnected the board to the plug. Wrapped it up to keep it water tight and put it up in the front of the frame horn to keep it away from everything), and I also tucked ALOT of wiring and the fuse pannel is now in the glove box. So with that said there is a solid shot that I have screwed myself with my own nonsense but wanted to see if anyone has a clue other than "you messed something up". So far I have attempted to pull a c code and have gotten a flashing c on the cluster with no codes. Figured I just didn't know what I was doing so I got ahold of a 0bd2 scanner that can read abs codes. That told me the same thing. No connection to the abs portion of the can bus system. I did have to extend the abs wires up front to run them through the cabin and back out under the fenders but it was done with solder and heat shrink like the rest of my extensions which somehow all work haha.

volta55 ahhh that makes alot of sense.

also forgot to mention that my gauges and radio wont turn on now that ive started using an 06 gt dash harness that i matched by vin to the bulk and engine harnesses. which baffles the mind greatly

alright so i have to ask what are those two green plugs for? i got alot more normal stuff to happen when i popped them apart. Also im still having problems with blowing main relays and ecu's. I broke down on my search for a gt car that i could part out and bought a bulk, dash and engine harness straight from subaru using a friends vin number in hopes of less headache inducing situations. sadly i wasn't so lucky. i just pulled the dash harness and dash bar out again tonight to make sure i had everything situated right. Which from what i was looking at was the case. All i can realy think of at this point is my intake manifold and all of the sensors that go along with it? does anyone know if using the jdm sensors could cause a situation like this? I say this because if i have the engine harness disconected and turn the key i would get the dash to cycle just like normal but with it connected i would get all the usual warning lightd to cycle but the gauges wouldnt sweep. ill keep digging and see what i can come up with. back tot he garage..

-Eric

Alright guys iv hit a little bit of a road block but ill get back to that. SO far the car has the ej20y with a jdm gt trans all bolted together and installed, exhaust avcs deleted, brand new from subaru 06 gt bulk and engine harness installed, every sensor pluged in that is required to try and start it and battery tossed in. so last night after a long day of wrenching and getting everything finished up enough to start her for the first time i fried my ecu..... So when i first put the battery in it was the usual subaru chimes that gave me alot of confidence. so i went on ands turned the key one click over. things got a little weird from here. The cluster only lighting up doors being ajar and the security light. Which is very weird to me because i got an ecu, imobilizer and key set that was all apparently matched to the same car. so silly me says well lets try one more click and see what happens. as soon as i do the 15 amp ecu fuse blows, i could see the flash when it did blow to, and then i start smelling the dreaded electrical burning smell. so thinking the smell was the fuse i popped another in for fun and turn the key 2 clicks over again. fuse pops in the same spectacular fashion but this time i notice smoke coming from the passenger foot well. so i took the brand new smoked ecu out and took it apart to see what happened. it seemed to be a very localized burn which put a pretty decent sized hole through one chip on the board. so since i just go this ecu i figured maybe it was just a bad ecu and decided to plug in my origonal 2.5i ecu in the see if i could atleast get the cluster to go through its normal start up procedure. Low and behold she does the same thing, 15 amp fuse blown, smoke out of the ecu and the same chip has a hold burnt straight through it. so my next plan of action is to isolate the bulk harness and fuse pannel under the hood, disconect the brown and black engine harness plugs, and see if i can get one of my now toasty ecus to do something more than what i had last night. If anyone has any clues as to what could be causing this i would be very appreciative.

-Eric

so it wont let me upload images through the forum for some reason so i tossed them on imgur quick

http://imgur.com/0wamApG

http://imgur.com/ch3Uluk

http://imgur.com/m77YJeP

http://imgur.com/lXwIMqj

http://imgur.com/xrrbYsy

http://imgur.com/1JuPCIE

http://imgur.com/6bsra2u

so i know this thread has been dead for a little while but the project has been nothing but haha. So the ej20 now has a new rear main seal, motor mounts and has been temporarily been bolted to the crossmember with a hoist holding it. Reason being is i dropped the old and tired 2.5i trans out the bottom with all the mounts still attached. Oh and before i put the engine in i did alittle bit of shaving and painting just to get an idea of what i would be in for if i decide to shave the entire engine bay. After the little i did, that idea kind of fell apart for the time being because that doesn't get the car on the ground rolling again. Ill save that job for latter on down the line with this car. I sent the steering rack out a few weeks ago to get new tierod ends on it because the one on there seemed to be original to the 225k shell and want to start as fresh as i can with this car. Continuing with the fresh thing i have started taking most of the rear apart of the car just to give it a good once over and replace any bad or worn bushings. Ive found more than i was hoping for... but ill keep going a little at a time. i work at napa and for some crazy reason they stock whiteline bushings and i get a stellar discount on them so ill be lighting up my credit card once i have the rear subframe out and ready to go back in hopefully with 08+ sti subframe mounts that look like they will work. for the $30ish they will cost ill take my chances. So within the next month or two i want to get everything mechanical done so i can get the car back on a set of wheels and roll it out of the garage so i can do alittle cleaning and be able to put my daily in there so it can get some well needed love. I know it the saying it never happened if you cant see it so here you go.

-Eric