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Ivant

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Posts posted by Ivant

  1. This is a tricky path to take. In order to keep reasonable oil pressure the main/rod/cam bearings have tighter clearances for the 0w20. If you then switch to a thicker oil you risk too much pressure popping the bypass and reducing flow throughout the engine. If the dealer is putting in 10w30 in place of 0w20 then they did it first so trying it won't be that bad. I wouldn't go any thicker without talking to an engine builder with decades of building and race experience. The real solution is for the OEs to stop building these silly engines and go back to what has worked extremely well for the last 120 years.

    Well when I say a thicker oil I mean 5w30. That's what the dealership changed to, from the 0w30 that it had in it from Japan. When I asked about the change, they told me that the thinner oil was ok when it was running in. But here in NZ they said wasn't needed as our Winters are not as cold as Japan. Not in the North Island anyway. So I thought ok I'll be using 5w30 from now on.

    It's funny when you say be careful using the thicker 10w30. It reminds me of a time back in my younger days in the mid seventies when 30/40 was the only oil there was. It was horrible thick gluggy stuff. The damned cars wouldn't drive unless they were warmed up for 10-15 minutes first. Thank God we don't have to do that anymore.

  2. EPA regulations are forcing all the car companies to search for fuel efficiency in increasingly silly ways. One of these is running 0w20 oil. This oil passes rings no matter what design or materials are used. It also passes valve stems and burns off there as well. The only solution is to use an oil that is capable of filming and shearing in a way that makes sense for internal combustion engines and accept the .04% reduction in fuel efficiency. Gains many orders of magnitude better could be had by simply not producing 4400 pound cars and 6500 pound trucks for the average person to use daily.

    Yes I think you're on to something there, in respect to the newer cars burning oil these days. I am going to start using a thicker oil myself in my Mazda, after noticing the dealership was putting in a thicker oil themselves when it was going in for servicing when it was still under warranty.

  3. I wouldn't even say it's a Subaru specific thing, I've had a bunch of Subarus, including one with 190k that uses a quart every 2000 miles or so, but then another with 230k that never consumed a noticeable amount. I'm not even going to mention the mini I had that burned a quart of oil every 500 miles haha. I think a lot of it comes down to maintenance, engine break in and overall how it's driven.

    Yes I think you could be right, in that not everybody looks after their cars the same way.

  4. There's one thing that I wonder about with my old Legacy, is how come the engine despite having 271.000ks on the clock, still burns no oil. I mean why doesn't it? Does it have special type of rings in it or something. I would expect it, or any high mileage engine to be burning through it by now.

    Maybe someone can enlighten me on the matter?

    The car that I replaced it with, a brand new Mazda3 has been burning oil since day one. About half a liter per 10.000ks. I complained about it, but was told that it was within Mazda's guidelines. I complained further about how a brand new car in my opinion shouldn't be burning any oil at all. One of their mechanics told me in confidence that they have found that all the new ones are, and that they think it is due to the super thin oils that they are using these days.

    Looks like I'll just have to wear it. Maybe it's time to bring on the electrics.

  5. Mine has 305000 miles so about 450000k and is still great. Keep the cooling system solid and change the oil/filter on time and it should keep going for a long time.

    Yes the 2.2L is a great engine. The only thing that I could fault it on is it's high fuel use compared to today's fuel misers. Our Mazda 3 gets at least 700ks per tank, whereas the Subaru around 450ks depending on how you drive.

  6. After I reluctantly sold off my trusty and ultra-reliable old Legacy, I had never expected to post on here again, but I was recently contacted by the new owner of it, asking me if I wouldn't mind doing a bit of work on it. He told me that he wanted to keep using it, as it just kept on going, despite having over 270.000ks on the clock.

    He told me that it was leaking from the water pump, and the oil pump. I said ok I'll have a look at it. It was a bit of a mess. As I had worked on it a lot over the years, I had no problem doing what was needed.

    I fitted a new timing belt and pulleys. A new water pump, despite the old one still looking and working ok. The tin gasket on the other hand looked a bit sad. I suspect all that was needed there was just a tightening of the bolts to stop the leak, but I just replaced it all anyway.

    Pulled the oil pump off and replaced the 0-ring, and re-tightened using some locktite the back screws, of which three were loose, with one being at least 4mm undone. Reinstalled the pump with a new Subaru crank seal fitted, as some after market cheap seals just not doing the job, as their dimensions were just not up to grade. Hence oil continuing to seep out after being fitted.

    Job all done, and the car continuing on as an everyday driver.

    I didn't charge him anything for the work, just the parts. He was more than happy, and I quite enjoyed doing it.

    The other night there was a knock on the door. Who's that I wonder. I open the door and before I could even say hello, I have two bottles of Whiskey thrust into my hands, from a very happy owner, and then he was off.

    I just thought I would share my current experiences from my old Subaru, that continues to be a part of my life for god knows how many years?

    I wonder just how long this car will continue to go on for. Even after 270.000ks it stills burns no oil. That's amazing in itself.

     

    Ivan

  7. I bought my '99 LGT 2.5i Limited sedan in 2003 with 104,000 miles on the clock. Traded him in 2010 with 185,000 miles because the synchros between 4th and 5th were going, and I'd decided I wanted an automatic.

     

    I still miss that car. It was perfect for me and I loved the styling. The various gold touches were very handsome, I thought - not overbearing and tacky like so many "gold trim packages" back in the day. He and I had been to about 35 of the 50 states, plus Mexico. Only car I've ever owned where I actually felt bad as I drove away from the dealer, seeing him sitting in the parking lot.

     

    Ever thought of doing a search, just to see where it's at? I followed up an old 83 night-rider Firebird that I used to have, but sold back in 99. The guy I sold it to still has it, and drives it on the weekends. I haven't been in contact for a few years now. I must catch up with him to see what's new with the car.

  8. I'm now at 116,8xxx. I've got a slow leak that one of the mechanics I used said same as above. Also, he said the oil filler neck might be leaking too. Very minor, I rarely have to put extra oil in between changes. Car runs still runs great!

     

    Same here with the oil filler neck. I just undone the two bolts holding it on, and on inspection I found that the mating surface wasn't flat anymore. So I filed it a bit, then made a gasket, and after putting it back on, no more leak. It was only a slight seep anyway. It's an easy fix, so why not fix it.

  9. Mine is pushing close to 170,000 miles. It still runs as smooth as when I got it at around 105,000. I do have an oil leak that I've been trying to find though pretty much since getting the car, nothing significant it just annoying

    It will be around the front crank seal. it's a common leak with the 2.2 engine. It's no good just putting another seal in either. The oil pump needs to come off and the backing plate needs to have the screws at the back of it tightened. Only after you have done this will the leak be gone.

  10.  

    well done, you must have really looked after this car to get so many miles out of it. I have also looked after the dragons 97 Legacy since new, but are not up to your mileage. It's just coming up to 248ks, with a new belt due at 255ks. The problem I have at the moment is that she wants to get a new car, because this one is now old. My argument is why get a new one when this one still runs well. It just seems a shame to get rid of it. It's been a bloody good car, and it has never played up once the whole time we have had it. She says that I am just being sentimental and it's time for a new one.

  11. There was a guy around here who said he did a million on an original engine and tranny on an older Accord. He was a mechanic who did most of the work himself: http://www.pressherald.com/2011/10/24/honda-goes-the-distance-1-million-miles_2011-10-24/

    What a great story. It was interesting to note that if you do 10-15 thou a year, it will take 66 years to clock up a million. Joe said changing the oil was the key to it's long life, a thing a lot of people don't bother to do these days. I have changed the oil in my 97 since new. I wonder how long the engine will go for, it still doesn't burn any oil despite just clocking up 240.000 ks. Time will tell I suppose.

  12. My odometer rolled over on one of mine today. It currently reads 000,013. Total mileage 1,000,013

     

     

    On another note, does anyone want to buy a low mileage second gen? It has less than 20 miles! LOL

    I have never seen a car engine that has done a million miles. I would imagine the rings and bearings would be well worn out long before it got to that stage. Oils these days are good, but there still has to be friction between the cly wall and rings to make combustion. Show some proof please.

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