OBieXT

No, I haven't cleaned a Subaru pedal sensor. This is based on other experiences. The pedal sensor is really just a potentiometer and I have cleaned enough of those to recommend you put something on it or you will likely become noisy again (electrically noisy, not audibly noisy) in short order.

That may work also although I haven't personally tried it. It just has to be thin enough that the points on the wiper arm push through it to make contact with the resistive material. I'm not sure if it would thicken up over time and cause issues. Worse case is you have to clean it off with alcohol and try something else.

Here's my factory pedal to throttle opening mapping.

 

I measured this mapping from a scanner tool, after having cleaned the pedal sensor swept carbon traces VERY carefully with 600 grit and alcohol wipes on the traces... I'm in the process of trying to eliminate a p2138 code. I realize doing this kind of cleaning can be a quick way to buying a new pedal if the carbon gets gouged, so I don't recommend the process as a common practice. (I used strong jeweler loupe magnification and bright light with a steady hand making ultra light circular sweeping motions following each individual trace arc to remove obvious "finger" pattern polishing where the wiper had made its path over 200,000km of driving. It's pretty obvious when you look at a high mile sensor what I'm talking about.)

 

 

Now that you have carefully cleaned the sensor its time to goop it back up again. You need to smear a very, very thin layer of Vaseline across the carbon traces to seal out the atmosphere. Otherwise the oxygen will begin attacking the resistive material and over the course of 3-6 months it will become worse than it was before you cleaned it. Alternately, a shot of Tri-Flow will usually do the trick with out the need to disassemble. At least I've had good luck with it on audio equipment and servos for R/C airplanes.

Haven't messed with the Subie, so the dual climate system my change things, but for most typical cars you'd like to see in the mid 50s coming out of the center vent with controls set full cool, max fan, doors open, and idling 1200-1500 rpm. If you'r not seeing low 60s or cooler, you may be low on r-134 (the system only holds about a pound so any leakage really kills the performance) or the fan on the radiator may not be turning. If the radiator fan isn't running, you would probably get cool air when you were moving (due to air blowing in through the radiator keeping the AC condenser cool) but very little when you were stopped.

You might want to consider a smaller crankshaft pulley, or a larger alternator pulley. It looks like the alternator will be turning about 3.5 times the crankshaft RPM the with the present setup. You may spin the guts right out of it.

I have come up with some some ideas for a piggyback, memory hack (it stores info in an EEPROM/Flash in the valve body) or hacking the valve presure regulating chip to rase the pressure.

 

 

I had noticed the mention in the manual of storing data in a memory inside the trans. but hadn't got around to posting about it. If you could figure out what is stored there, it might not be too difficult to hack it such that the TCU thinks it needs to shift quicker based on what it reads.

 

Another thought - Do the JDM or EDM versions of the LGT use a different TCU? Possibly one that shifts quicker / more firmly? I don't recall non-US/Canadian drivers complaining about the trans. I must admit though that I haven't done any type of searching to determine if this is more than just a notion on my part.

I just had this happen the other day. First time since new (39 months, 45k miles). Was driving to work and stereo shut down, no lights on stereo or climate controls. Parked at work and shut off engine. Immediately turned key back on and everything went back to normal and stereo resumed playing a previous volume.