sunny5280

Wanted to circle back on this for anyone who may stumble across this thread in the future.

The light did illuminate again and then, on the same trip, went off again. I decided this is too important of a warning light to ignore so I had my mechanic replace the sensor. After a month of driving the light has not illuminated any more. It appears the sensor was the issue.

They all have their own problem. The outback xt had turbo issuses the N/A cars had head gasket issues. The H6 had tranny issues.

 

Not a lot of knowledge to spread there were less of them so they had fewer issues. There has been a couple of struggles reported with head gasket issusez. I would look into if they came with multillayer steal ones or like the N/a h4 composite if you are real concerned.

Thanks Rusty. I ended up purchasing a 2011 Outback 3.6R which was too good a deal to pass up.

Thanks guys. I took it to the mechanic last week and, while he saw the light, he was unable to determine an underlying cause as the light went out after a road test. He said it is something to keep an eye on but, unless it happens again, not to worry about it.

Perhaps the conditions, which were similar to those whitetiger outlined (i.e not allowing it to warm up), caused the light to illuminate and, after a couple of drive cycles, it extinguished itself. I have been driving it since then and no light.

This morning when I went to fill my Outback with gas this warning lamp illuminated on the dash. This is the yellow lamp in the speedometer dial and not the red "Oil pressure warning" light within the tachometer dial.

I parked the vehicle and checked the oil level and it is showing completely full. There is no doubt that there is plenty of oil in the engine.

I read the description of this in the owners manual and it states that if it is on then there is approximately 4 (engine not running) or 5.6 (engine running) quarts of oil. Perhaps I was misreading the dipstick so I turned to that section of the manual to ensure I was doing it properly. It appears that I am.

Conditions: Temperature is around 30 degrees, I waited approximately 30 seconds after starting before driving away, the coolant indicator remained blue the entire trip, the light was not on when I drove away but came on after I filled the tank.

After observing the light I checked the oil, upon seeing the level is OK I started the engine and allowed it to warm slightly (the coolant light went out and the heater started blowing warm air), and then rechecked the oil.

Any idea what might be causing this? I've attempted to cycle the ignition off and on again several times and it's still illuminated. The only thing I can think of is the sensor is bad (or temperamental in colder weather). I drove it 200+ miles over the weekend without any issues. Was it a short trip issue without warming it up?

I'll take it to my mechanic for inspection if there is no obvious explanation for this (other than a bad sensor).

On a completely unrelated note what's up with the multiple line spacing when I post? Initial post has double spacing which I have to go back and edit out.

Just make sure that you get out all the air when you replace coolant - that is a bigger culprit for cooling problems than the type of coolant.

 

As far as I know a remote starter will require you to have a key hidden to get around the immobilizer. That key in turn could cause interference with another key with immobilizer so that if you go that route you might want to cut a "clean" key without the immobilizer chip to use for normal starting.

My Subaru mechanic will be performing the coolant system flush. I've reached a point in my life where I can afford to pay someone else to do this type of work

The OEM remote starter requires my to hide a key? That seems odd, I'll have to speak to my mechanic to see if he has familiarity with adding it. Thanks for the heads up.

Seems like you got a decent deal. Bearings, brake pads are wear items that might be popping up but that's not unexpected for any car at that mileage.

 

Only other thing that could be worth keeping an eye out for is headgaskets, just watch the coolant and oil often and you'll catch it if that happens. If it's a lot of salt on the roads a fluid film could be a good option, even if it was done before.

I am very happy with the deal. I just returned from a trip into the mountains where snow fell and the car was exceptional (as if a Subaru would be anything but). Drove on the highway smooth and straight, plenty of power, and the heat rocks.

I will have some of the maintenance work that was suggested performed in the upcoming weeks. One of the recommendations was to replace the green coolant with the Subaru blue coolant. If I remember correctly the blue coolant is supposed to help with the head gasket issue. However, it's my understanding that this generation did not suffer from head gasket failures as did the previous generations. Further it is my understanding the head gasket failures were a problem only for the normally aspirated four cylinder engines on those previous generations (the turbo and H6 models did not suffer from the problem). I'll have my mechanic keep his eye out when I bring it in for oil changes but there seems to be reason to believe this should not be a problem. Or is there something I am missing?

Next will be to add an OEM remote starter as I've gotten too used to that with my Volt. I see they're available for sale, I assume they can be installed post sale without much difficulty?

On Wednesday I purchased a 2011 Outback Premium 3.6R for $4,900 + tax. It is a high mileage car with 207K ticks on the clock. Single owner, Colorado car. Only issues I noted were a couple of small dings in the passenger door and some wear on the drivers side carpeting.

At $4,900 I thought it was too good to be true so I called them up to confirm, which he did. Seller said he suspects the high mileage was keeping people away despite the excellent condition of the car (he is a mechanic who primarily wrenches on Subaru vehicles and has a side business as a dealer selling small quantities of vehicles). I set up an appointment to see the car the next morning (it was 5:30pm and they closed at 6:00 and I am an hour away). In the meantime I did research, research, research...including on the sellers business. All reviews I read were positive which made me feel even better about the car.

The next morning I stopped by my Subaru mechanic to ask him his opinion on a 2011 six cylinder with 2011 miles. He said he had no overall concerns with a Subaru having that many miles but it would all depend on the condition. Appropriately he recommended a PPI.

I drove down, saw the car and discovered it was, at least cosmetically, in as good a condition as the pictures showed. I asked if he would mind if I drove the hour long trip back to Denver to have a PPI performed to which he did not object. A good sign. So I jump in the car and take it for a local test drive (why drive an hour if there is something obviously wrong?) Wow! Was I pleased. The car drove like new. Upon returning I asked if he could put it on a lift so I could inspect the underside of the car. He had no objection and did so. Underside was clean, clean, clean. I'm no mechanic but I do know cars and certain things to look for. All looked in great shape. Even the tires were like new (we measured and they were at 9/32", new tread depth is 10/32")

At this point I decided I am jumping on the deal, no need for a PPI. I wrote the check and was out the door (literally for $4,900 + taxes, no fees of any kind). They even warranty the engine and transmission for 60 days (no mileage limit). I was surprised they would do so but they say they stand behind what they sell.

I got the car on Thursday and decided to have my mechanic perform the now post purchase inspection. Yeah, the right time to do an inspection is before you buy a car but I was very pleased with the condition of this car. Just picked it up an hour ago and it received the all clear. Some minor issues to address but nothing of significance. Wow, was I pleased. Generally when I buy a used car I expect it's going to need a few things here and there. The worst thing on the list was the serpentine belt was starting to show cracks. Otherwise they recommended a coolant flush and the 60K maintenance recommendations.

So why am I posting this? Very excited about the purchase and happy to return to the Subaru family. I feel this is one of those purchases that doesn't come around too often. Also, this place is quiet so I thought I would post something to slightly liven it up.

Those are not options, they are accessories. If your Outback had a Sirius radio tuner (as an example), it did not come off the SIA assembly line in Indiana with that accessory. I live in MA, my SNE port is in RI. Any accessories installed before delivery to the dealer would be installed at that port and it would show up on the window sticker. Any dealer installed accessories would show up on dealer paper work, any owner installed would just be receipts.

If they're not part of every vehicle sold then they're options. Call them accessories if you like but doing so does not change anything.

It does with Subarus. I have owned GM vehicles and I am very familiar with decoding the RPO codes. The options in Subaru are bundled, the combinations can be put in the VIN, because they don't have that many. I am pretty sure Toyota does this as well by putting it in the VIN. I remember realizing I could look at just the VIN and quickly figure out what model I was looking at when car shopping.

 

My 2012 GT VIN starts with 4S3BMFK, FK determines my car's options. F -2.5 Turbo, K - Limited + HK + MR

 

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/vin2012.html

 

You can also find this information in the service manual as well.

 

My car does have the STI STS and mud flaps accessories, it isn't list any where on the car except on the window sticker if it was port installed.

 

www.cars101.com usually has the standard features for what each model trim has.

I did check out cars101.com however the option detail is very limited. I was hoping to find something that would detail every option like my Volt has. For example the VIN doesn't tell me if the car has the security alarm, SirusXM radio tuner, remote key start, or rear bumper protector (to name a handful). My Volt has a sticker located on the inside of the glovebox door which details each of these options. It's a great way for a prospective buyer to know exactly what options a car has. All I need to is ask them to send me a picture of the sticker.

That said the car was delivered this morning so I can go through it myself to see if it has any features which I didn't specifically ask about.

Subaru VIN 6 and 7 digits have the trim and options in them. It is not goi g to have accessories though.

Yeah, VINs typically don't tell you what options are installed. My Volt has a sticker on the inside of the glovebox door which has a list of codes for each option (even if the "option" is standard) installed in the vehicle. With it you can tell exactly what options the vehicle had installed when it sold new. I was wondering if there was something similar for Subaru's.

I’ve owned one for 8 years now and I love it. It has some quirks but is very comfortable and capable. Pushing 125k miles and the biggest repair has been the torque converter. Biggest complaint is it has non-OEM replacement axles that cause vibrations while idling in gear. It’s a bit sluggish for a 6 cylinder but has plenty of power for highway cruising. Takes premium gas which is a bummer.

I took it for a test drive on Saturday and thought it was peppy enough for my needs. I really liked it but it was an east coast car and had tons of rust. The mechanic strongly recommended I avoid purchasing it as a result. As an example the ground strap between the engine and frame had rusted in half. He said any work it would need would be more cost as he would have to deal with rust issues. For instance the head gaskets were leaking which is not normally a difficult job. However due to the bolts being rusted there was the possibility trying to remove them would either round the head or break it off completely. That would increase labor costs as he would have to deal with that. He took me out to the shop and showed me the underside of the car and pointed all this out. I was a little disappointed but I knew he was right.

So, I passed on it and found another 2008 Bean which was a single owner, Colorado car for a decent price by a private party seller. Set up an appointment to see him this Saturday (his earliest availability) and was ready to move on it.

Then, I saw a 2011 3.6R for a steal of a price and ended up purchasing it this morning. I really like the Bean but this 2011 was just too good of a deal to pass up.

Thinking of buying one and wanted to get the forums thoughts. I test drove it and really like it. Price is good and I think it's worth it.

Any thoughts about the 3.0 or L.L. Bean edition in general? I already posted about head gasket issues with the six cylinder (I'm told there are none like with the four). I'll be having it inspected by a mechanic who specializes only in Subarus.

I am a previous 2005 Outback XT owner so I am familiar with this generation (that's why I am considering the same generation). Just wanted to get some feedback on the L.L. Bean edition (I've read the comments on cars.com, edmunds, etc.)

I am considering the returning to the Subaru Outback family (having previously owned a 2005 Outback XT) and was considering the purchase of the LL Bean model which has the 6-cylinder engine. I know the 4-cylinder motor continued the well documented head gasket issues carried over from generation to generation. However I'm unclear if this was a weakness with the 6-cylinder motors. Does anyone know if this was or was not an issue?

I am also new to the third generation model (having owned a couple of second generation and a fourth generation version). Is there anything specific I need to check for when looking at them? I am also considering the fourth generation but the third generation seems to have some good pricing so I may consider it.

I am considering the return to the fourth generation Outback (having previously owned a 2005 Outback XT) and was considering the purchase of the LL Bean model which has the 6-cylinder engine. I know the non-turbo 4-cylinder motor continued the well documented head gasket issues whereas the turbo motor did not. However I'm unclear if this was a weakness with the 6-cylinder motors. Does anyone know if this was or was not an issue?

Also, are there any specific issues to look out for with this generation 6-cylinder (I am familiar with the overall car but not the 6-cylinder motor)?

Was told it could be January for delivery, but a chance it may be in December. Will know more in a coupe of weeks.

I'm sorry but it is just plain stupid to have to wait four months to do business with a company.

I'm coming into this a little late but since there has been some recent discussion I thought I would offer my perspective.

I currently own a 2018 Volt which is a hybrid electric vehicle but not in the same sense as something like the standard Prius. The Volt, as long as the battery has a charge, primarily propelled by the electric motor (there are some minor exceptions but they are generally exceptions). This Volt replaced my 2005 Outback XT (which I absolutely loved). I purchased the Volt not to be "green" nor to save money on gas. I did so primarily because I was interested in the electric technology. What I write he is solely my opinion based on ownership of this one hybrid-electric vehicle. I offer it as insight only, it is in no way intended to sell anyone on electric technology.

To answer the OPs questions:

(1) It is my opinion that, given time, the ICE engine will be supplanted by electric technology. Currently we're in the early phases of electric technology. Not the very earliest but I think there's room for improvement.

(2) I can't answer this as it has been a year or so when I looked into this technology. After buying my Volt I haven't investigated other options. I am aware several manufacturers have released some form or another of an electric vehicle (primarily hybrids).

After having driven an electric vehicle for almost two years now I can say that there appear to be few downsides. The performance of my Volt is close to that of my Outback XT, (despite the Volt is not and never was intended to be a performance car), it's delivery is super smooth (and quiet while doing so), and I have a "full tank of gas" every morning.

Of course there are some downsides which most people will note as range and lack of charging infrastructure. IMO these two are downsides but they are not the most significant issues.

IMO the largest issue is the time it takes to fully recharge the vehicle. My Volt has an estimated range of 53 miles per charge. In order to obtain that it takes either 4 or 9 hours, depending on whether I use level 2 (4 hours) or level 1 (9 hours). Pure electric vehicles such as the Bolt or a Tesla would take 9 hours using level 2 charging. Of course they have the ability to charge faster but you have to use a charging station (i.e. you're not going to do it at home). Even so to obtain roughly 80% capacity will still take 30 or so minutes. With an ICE vehicle I pull up to the pump and within 10 minutes I have a full tank.

There are other issues and if anyone wants to discuss them I'd be happy to offer my thoughts. Or if you have any question about electric technology in general I'd be happy to answer what I can (I am by no means an expert). Also this isn't to sell electric technology to the forum. I offer no thoughts as to how green the other end of the charging cable is nor the manufacturing / end of life for the batteries. Those are "green" discussions, I'd like to focus on owning / driving experiences.

And finally: BMW has been using Automatic Start / Stop (i.e. "ASS") for years. While I don't own a BMW that has it I have had loaner vehicles with it. I hate it.

I've tried 8-9 different types of snow tires on my cars over the last decade and they've all been pretty great. I had a set of Hankook winters that didn't stop on a dime in the snow like some others, but they were all serviceable.

 

End of the day, having a dedicated summer/winter tire setup is well worth it regardless of which actual tire you go with.

I think this is the best advice right here. After reading review after review after review I came to the conclusion what is most important is having a true winter tire over which brand of winter tire. I could make arguments for each and every one but at the end of the day having a winter tire versus all season (not to mention summer...yikes!) is what wins the day.

Oh man... Maybe I shoulda bought blizzaks instead of Michelin x-ice xi3

 

Anyone have experience with x-ice xi3s?

I have them on my Volt and have been very pleased with them. I purchased them over the Blizzaks as reviews stated they hold up well on dry roads (they have a mileage warranty which is not common with winter tires), are more quiet, and performed equally with the Blizzaks under wintery conditions. I highly recommend them.

Difficult decision and one which I've contemplated myself (thankfully mine is still running good).

I've had two trains of thought on this:

1. Rebuild what I know. Doing so provides a new motor which, if done properly, should last many years to come. This assumes the rest of the vehicle is in good shape.

2. Replace it. The question is: With what? I think the generation four Legacy / Outback was unique with its turbo charged engine. Sadly Subaru doesn't make anything comparable to it today.

I know I'm not being much help but I think this is something only you can decide.

I was in a similar position as you and “upgraded” to a GT. I didn’t really know what I was getting myself into though and it’s fairly expensive to maintain these if you do it right and even more expensive if you don’t.

 

That being said, don’t buy one unless you pay a third party shop to do an inspection and compression test. Make sure the timing belt has been done, the turbo hasn’t been replaced. if the turbo fails catastrophically which is common, it can put metal shrapnel in the oil in system which soon thereafter causes the engine to fail. The bill ends up being around 6-8k and that’s not an exaggeration. From there you can haggle or walk away once you have the details from the shop.

 

Make sure the timing belt has been done. Seriously don’t don’t go turbo Subaru unless you are prepared to drop some serious money in the next few years.

 

In addition to the thousands I’ve spent on mine in the two years I’ve owned it, there has been way more stress than when I had the NA Legacy. And my engine and turbo and timing belt have been fine so far.

I'd like to emphasize this. It seems counter intuitive but a new turbo is a red flag for the reason given. If you should come across one with a new turbo ensure you, or preferably someone who understands cars, are comfortable with the reason for its replacement.

I’m going to run my car tonight to see what the 0-60 is. Is there an app or timer that can accurately rate this? (Besides a Stopwatch)

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are any number of apps which can track your speed (though I can't name them as I have never used one, just seen them used)