Jubs

Sorry I probably should have specified that this is a wagon. The emergency release switch isn't like that of sedans, this is specifically meant for dead batteries and broken cables. You have to remove a small trim piece and reach in to access it. It's the white plastic arm on the left of the picture I attached and you can see it pretty clearly in the video below.

 

I tried a combination of flat heads and pick tools, but nothing wants to budge and I have no real room for leverage.

 

This whole situation isn't helping my phobia of plastic parts in cars.

 

So the other day I went to grab jumpers to start the M3 out of the legacy and my rear hatch refused to open. I was a little surprised since I've never had any issues of it sticking or acting weird, but I guess she's 15 years old and becoming a angsty teen. I did a quick search and the emergency plastic lever seemed like a pretty easy fix. So I dug myself in and with very little force... it snapped. So now I'm in search of a plan b that hopefully doesn't involve the angle grinder.

 

Here's some more specific details:

• The outside plastic latch sticks open or closed. It feels like it is still somewhat connected, but obviously it's not actually opening anything.
  
• The electrical actuator has power and reacts with when unlocking. There is a small little wheel that I can see rotate whenever I lock or unlock it, so I doubt this is the root of the issue
  
• The small tension spring was still attached to the lock assembly, but has since flown off in my troubleshooting.
  

 

My best guess is that there's a physical interference somewhere preventing this assembly from budging, but it's a PINA to access or even just look at anything. Here's some questions I was hoping to get some feedback on:

• Is there a way to disassemble this without opening the hatch? It seems like there's two inaccessible bolts on the bottom holding it in place that I could maybe try backing out with a pair of vise grips, but there's also a few small phillips on the plastic body I could try?
  
• Could I try wrenching on the rotating the little plastic wheel? It seems to be connected to the part that's supposed to have the emergency lever, but I'd rather not break more things if the assembly could be saved.
  
• Am I realistically best off to break out the angle grinder and just cut the whole assembly up?
  
• Am I realistically best off to break out the angle grinder and just cut the whole car up into a ute?
  

 

Here's a picture of the latch assembly I'm talking about. This shows the important side I can't access.

 

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

It really depends on what supporting mods you're running in addition to the turbo, but generally the best intercooler will be whatever you can find a good deal on. If you're only replacing the turbo then I would probably recommend just staying stock (or reinforced stock). Grimmspeed makes the best TMIC and is worth every penny IMO, but PW TMIC's work just as well. I have mixed feelings on the Perrin/AVO/Mishimoto intercoolers, but they're worth it if you can find one under $300. I wouldn't run a FMIC with a VF52 unless it was free.

I'm not so sure about that. I went to school for mechanical engineering and it definitely looks like it serves as protection for dirt and liquid. Why would it fit so snugly into the hood scoop, and cover all the critical components? Why would it have foam on either side of the bottom of the hood scoop? Also, have you ever seen an engine bay without one, where the owner doesn't clean the engine on a regular basis? It's a filthy mess.

I would have agreed with you on a normally aspirated engine where the hood scoop is purely cosmetic and the engine bay is sealed, but the airflow goes right over the car's hood and directly into the engine bay. Sure, the airflow goes directly on top of the TMIC, but without that engine cover sealing it, it leaks all around the engine bay.

That isn't just air either, it's a mix of dirt, salt, gasoline, oil, coolant and whatever else is on the ground being kicked up, based on your environment or time of year.

These cars are super low to the ground, and just follow a huge truck for a while and see how much you use your windshield wipers. Well, all that stuff is not only going on your windshield, but right into your engine bay.

If you want to run it without the cover, that's your choice, but I wouldn't go saying it doesn't serve any useful purpose.

I mean, why would this aftermarket AVO TMIC have engine cover holes on it, if it really doesn't serve a purpose? They obviously fit it into the engineer's design for a reason. Everything about the hood scoop, ducting, and engine cover screams Bernoulli's Principal. Which also follows thermal dynamics of heat transfer and CFD, along with engine design and engine bay dead space.

 

Eh.... yes and no. Air really doesn't like to be pushed, especially turbulent air around a sharp 80 degree bend and through a porous media. The TMIC's on these cars benefit way more from the venturi effect than bernoulli's principle. Look at the underbody of any fancy german or itallian car, there's a reason why there's so much plastic. The seal that the engine cover provides probably improves the flow by providing a slightly higher positive pressure zone above the intercooler, but that's only going to be marginal at best. Keep in mind, the hood scope on these cars are incredibly small and is optimized more for a better drag coefficient. This was one of the first cars in which subaru really focused on the drag coefficient and have since dramatically increased the size of their hood scopes since then. If you really want to increase the airflow then you should consider adding a front splitter, a better under-engine cover, or even add a fan behind the intercooler.

 

Engines are engines, and engines get dirty. Putting a cover on top just helps hide the dirt from the average joe and makes it look fancy. Honestly, my engine cover would just pile leaves and maple copters on top of my intercooler, which obviously blocks airflow.

 

Also, I'm pretty sure the main reason why the perrin/avo/mitsimoto intercoolers have it is to keep poeple like you who prefer to keep their engine cover happy.

 

My understanding is the lower engine cover has a greater purpose specifically with regard to proper airflow for the TMIC, and obviously keeping the engine bay clean.

 

The lower cover and the saggy butt syndrome Subaru imposes are intentional for keeping the intake charge cool.

 

Pretty sure the saggy butt only hurts airflow? Ideally you want a low pressure zone underneath to suck air through the radiator and tmic. Basically the same logic as a rear diffuser.

You won't notice any added NVH with the bushings. It was a really nice upgrade from my 10 year old half-attached bushings. Part of me kinda wishes I went with the the all metal race version that Perrin offers.

 

KCA313 is borderline required with lowered cars. Makes the car feel much more stable on bumpy highways. Replacing the ball joints can be brutal on these old cars, so just plan accordingly.

I was thinking I'd have it and upload the file, but unfortunately I can't seem to dig it up. So do you have the unit installed and you're just trying to configure it?

 

I appreciate the search, I'm hoping someone has it in their download folder. Install and wiring was super easy, clearly a lot of design work was put into this thing. It works fine, displays my boost numerically, but it doesn't have the continuous graph of boost (Imo the coolest part). So that leaves me with a few questions.

• I'm able to cycle the different displays on right screen, but it's still not updating. Two of the graph displays are labeled "AP" and "BP". I'm guessing BP is "Boost Pressure" but I don't know what AP is for. Either way, none of them are updating. Is there a specific option in the settings that I'm missing? I'll try to upload all my settings in a bit.
  
• I only used two of the wires (red - 12v on Ing, blk - Ground). I'm guessing the other two are for dimming and maybe debugging/serial. None of these need to be grounded or have 12v right?
  
• It came with a bunch of audio, usb, and serial cables as well as a "aux splitter" board. I'm assuming these are for Air/fuel and oil pressure. Do I need to plug in any of these in order for it to work?
  

 

Best way to figure out all the setting is to mail it to me, and when I'm done borrowing it, I'll get it right back to ya

 

Seems legit

So I was lucky enough to snag one of these the other day and I just finished installing it. Unfortunately is seems like the OP's website is down and I kinda doubt it's ever coming back. I don't suppose anyone here has a copy of the user manual? This thing is way too fancy for me and I'm having some issues setting it up to graph boost.

thanks for the info. Which 'adapters' are you using to press out and in the bushings?

 

If you have some left over pulleys from a timing belt change, they're the perfect size for punching out the old bushing.

A LGT was my first car, and now my second. If I wasn't 18 at the time I would still have my first legacy.

 

Yes these cars are fast, but they aren't performance cars. Drive it like a performance car and you'll end up like me. If you can actually afford one and want to learn how to work on it yourself, get one. I'm sure that's terrible advice, but it was the best decision I ever made.

 

Get one without any modifcations. No coilovers, no intakes, no stage 87384 clutch, no ebay turbos. Maybe an accessport, maybe a quiet exhaust. Look for extensive maintenance records, spend at least $5500.

Will the Mevotech work with a roll adjustment kit with the ball joints?

 

Just installed these yesterday. In order to use the roll center kit you need to remove the conical adapter (Subaru P# 20216FA000). You need a pitman arm puller or a press to pop them off. I highly recommend you just spend the $15 and get the arm puller. It's the only good way to remove the LCA without ruining the ball joint. Well worth it btw

I have the roll center kit installed on the mevotech arms. No problems at all

 

How did you remove the tapered shim/insert from the ball joints? I gave it a few love taps in the vice and it seemed pretty cozy. I assumed it's pressed on but I haven't checked for threads.

I have been talking to him so people can get this if they want one. It won't exactly be cheap because it has to be printed on a professional 3d printer due to some of the angles and parts having to be printed.

 

 

But I wonder if the design could be split into pieces to make it work with consumer printer. Like, print the bottom post upside down, then print the pod section with the gauge face facing down. Then use glue or screws to put them together.

 

While it's not an easy print for FDM printers, breaking it into two pieces should make this easy. This was really my plan all along. I think the best approach initially is to have it press-fit together (like a pvc coupler). Although I would strongly suggest printing this in ABS or some other non-PLA material. I would be weary of it melting after leaving this exposed to the sun in the summer or pumping heat through it in the winter.

 

I'll finish the design if someone can get me a STEP or solidworks file.

So while this thread is at the top, did anyone ever upload the stl/step file of the vent gauge pod? I've spent way too long digging through this thread with no luck so far.

 

IMO this is the cleanest place to mount gauges and I'm planning on printing my own at some point. I don't really care how many gauges / what size gauge, I'm mostly just looking for a model of the vent so that I don't have to start from scratch.

 

If anyone has the model I'd really appreciate a Solidworks .sldprt or a STEP file.