zactek

If you're looking for a stock one,I have it

 

Zack K.

I chased a p0171 for months, checked all the above,nothing. In my case,it was a crack in the OEM cross pipe, which led to too much oxygen getting sucked in and fooling the O2 sensor into thinking car was too lean. Worth checking.

 

Zack K.

I have one from an 05, $55 shipped

I had that code and checked the maf, 02 sensor,smoke test and it wound up to be a rotted out flex section on the cross pipe in the exhaust,sucking too much air before the 02 sensor. Bought a new Grimmspeed cross pipe and the code went away.

I've got every part needed for the swap,including a new aftermarket braided high pressure line and I'm simplifying the return line from the rack. Do the stock lines that mount at the rack use O-rings or do they bolt up like a AN line? I want to make sure I've got everything covered before I get a nasty surprise once everything's apart,lol.

 

Thanks,Zack K

you are all responsible for my bad choice in life

[ATTACH]291462[/ATTACH]

 

If you're talking about making the mid spoiler,I'd be in!

 

Zack K.

First time I hear this. Good job finding this issue!

 

First time for me as well, I did the whole exhaust when I first got the car and thought it would be bulletproof for a while. I did a smoke test on the intake,not the exhaust,and found nothing. I thought the car sounded a little louder lately,lol.

 

Zack K.

Finally found my problem! An aftermarket crosspipe that was less than 4 years old. The flex section was completely rotted and letting in too much air only at idle,fooling the O2 sensor about a foot downstream. Bought a Grimmspeed one and installed, no more high A/F learning at idle and low load! No more lean code as well, hope this helps someone!

 

Zack K.

For those who have done their own flaring,what type is it? Is it the ISO/ bubble type of the inverted (45deg.) type? I'm in the same boat and trying to figure out what the car has.

 

Thanks, Zack K

Thanks for all the replies guys. Even though it's my DD, I don't put on that many miles a year, so with about 9K in the last 2 years, I consider my MAF and O2 sensors fairly new,sorry for the confusion.

My AFR is where it should be across all the rpm and load ranges, and the LV is pretty steady,I was just worried about the idle range being so out of whack. No CEL's,drives great,idle is smooth.

Not sure if I can fully rely on a smoke test,so I'm gonna do the soapy water check around the IC/BOV/TGV connections and try the MAF wires wiggle test. All my hoses are silicone with new clamps and zip ties in the right places, so I'm gonna look in some not too usual areas. Can leaking PCV/ breather hoses cause a leak that would make it lean out at idle? I want to first rule out any leaks before I touch the tune,which has been good to me for the last 5 years

If you are sure there are no vacuum leaks, then I would adjust the MAF scaling.

 

I haven't changed anything with the tune or any parts in the last 2 years,why would my maf scaling be suddenly off that much?

Would an exhaust leak affect the 02 sensor that much to read

lean and add fuel?

Bringing this thread back from the dead. The OP never posted a solution and I'm having the same problem!

2005 LGT, Cobb stage 2 OTS,new MAF,new-ish O2 and air filter (4K miles)

A/F learning pegged at 15 in line A, DAM at 1, no timing corrections. AFR stays at 14.7 at idle and throughout the rev range. Idles and drives great,it's the reading that's bothering me

Oh,it's been smoked with no leaks found

King springs are 30% stiffer. I have them all around with KYB struts and love it. Full tank of gas, trunk filled to the top,and 4 passengers,and no sag in the rear at all.

Also,the strut body limits how high the car can go. You can get a shorter spring and lower the car,but not get a longer spring and raise the car. You can get a stiffer spring that will make the car's weight sit higher than stock,like the H&R or King.

I was in the same boat a few years back. I didn't want to lower the car (as we have crappy streets here too and I wanted to keep the clearance since it's a DD) and wanted to keep it simple stock ride height without coilovers. Got a good deal on KYB's and found King springs (stock ride height but 30% stiffer). At around the same mileage as yours my stock springs dropped around 1- 1 1/4in. So getting the setup with the KYB/King raised me to a good stock height. I have it now for a few years and love it. Comfortable yet firm. You also can't just throw Outback struts on,as the strut bodies are 2' longer. Unless you get spacers for the F/R suspension,your angles will be all wrong and you will have massive POSITIVE camber.

Are the injectors still available? Can you do any better on the price?

No, it's a direct bolt in.

 

Just to keep things clear, DSS to us racers, refers to the The Driveshaft Shop, not The Driveshaft Store.

 

Us old Honda racers knew Frank the owner, I've had to call him from the track once.

 

For the bolt's most dealers web site's have a link to Parts. Click on it and look them up. Or go to the sticky up top and check one of the recommended Vendors.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/oem-online-subaru-parts-vendors-list-42243.html

 

I like, https://www.subaruonlineparts.com/ I was talking to Benny the other day. PM him if you need.

 

I usually use Subaru parts warehouse because they're close, have good discounts,and don't charge tax. I'm in NY and actually been to the one you recommend,but got a bad vibe from them after how I was treated; they kept stringing me along for months about a LGT wagon they were supposed to get in. This was when I was looking to buy one 6 years ago. I never pay retail for parts,lol

Nope. Went on like a dream. You’ve gotta remove the exhaust heatshield and unbolt the mid pipe to get enough room to slide it out the back. I luckily had a new exhaust donut that goes where the mid pipe meets the down pipe. That donut was crumbled and crappy. The hardware from the exhaust shield was fine. A little rusty but ok. The hardware where the down pipe meets the mid pipe was also fine, pretty robust stuff there.

 

So, I’d recommend new Subaru dealership nuts and bolts, and spacers that hold the driveshaft in and that donut. You’re not going to get any of that with the DSS driveshaft. Only a really nice driveshaft.

 

Thank you,what spacers for the driveshaft are you talking about?

I have a Borla catback which has a considerably smaller resonator,any chance I won't have to unbolt the midpipe to get clearance?

To the guys who installed the one piece DSS driveshaft,was there any modifying/cutting/ bending involved?

I have a pair in good shape as well.

I have all 4 calipers came off of my 05 with 84k,worked fine. I'm in NYC and it would be expensive to ship tho

I have a pair of OEM ones,came off the car at 84K miles. Pm me.

 

Zack K.

Wraps will only last so long,even when done properly. The only thing I've seen last is Swaintec white lightning coating. Pricey but worth it (to me). Had it on my last car header for over 14 years and going on 5 on my LGT DD. But if you are going to wrap,you gotta spray the pipe,let dry. Then wrap and saturate the crap out of the wrap with the same high heat coating. This waterproofs the wrap and protects both the wrap and pipe.

 

Zack K.

Yeah I think it’s really high also. I actually called him the first time. He quoted me 1000 and then I went there to get more information and he quoted me 1500. I also requested a transmission service but the shift kit is like 250 bucks. There isn’t that much labor to add $1250. I’m gonna call IPT and see what they quote. The high quote was from Level10. IPT seems pretty reputable on this site so I’ll see what they say.

 

 

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I've personally been to Level10 and their facility is top notch. They built me a converter for my 87 Mitsubishi and it never failed. However,I've never heard anything good about them from the Subaru crowd.

 

Zack K.

$1500 is really high. I was able to do the whole job in an afternoon on jackstands,and most of the time was spent waiting for the fluid to drain. There's just a lot of bolts to undo,5 plugs and shifter linkage to disconnect. The VB is pretty heavy,so having a friend or a lift helps taking it off and putting on. Pretty straightforward,just look at the FSM.

 

Zack K