evil03mustang

Replaced fuel tank.

Ended up replacing fuel pump and filters.

Needle-scaled rear subframe and repainted the top of it. I’ll get the bottom if it warms up again.

Adjusted the exhaust so the right side doesn’t poke out past the bumper.

Replaced drivers side front caliper and rotor.

Bled/flushed the whole brake system with new fluid.

Gonna data log cylinder roughness so I know which coil packs to replace next.

Planning on relocating the fpr reference at some point.

Still need to go through and swap out all the emissions sensors solenoids and valves.

Needs an alignment.

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Then there’s me watching too many Rob Dahm videos and pondering a 3-rotor swap.

[emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

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Polished headlights again. Got one of those mothers powerball headlight things and 3 kinds of plastic goop.

Did a partial ATF replacement. Used SSM to ensure fluid was at 170°F before calling “full hot” good.

Winter tires and rims are on.

It’s due for an oil change. I’ll let the dealer do that. I like when they look everything over and give me a shit list.

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I just top it off with whatever full syn 5w30 has pretty packaging that looks shiny. [emoji2369]

Everything’s $10USD/Qt anyway. Just no dollar store oil. That’s for my Chevy….

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I was having brutally harsh 2-4/3-4 upshift when chopping the throttle at 60mph from a WOT pull.

Previous owner had put a parts store engine oil filter where the genuine Subaru Tokyo-Roki AT fluid filter is supposed to go..

Seems to have taken care of the issue. Might be too good to be true tho.. kinda early to know for sure. Still needs a fluid and pan filter swap.

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Jeff

2005 BSM LGTLTD 5EAT Sedan

“GT 2.5” debadge, catback (came with the car), Spec B struts and springs,

55w 5000K HiD low beams, rust. Lots of rust. Lots and lots of rust.

188,000 miles.

Butler(ish), PA

I have crank and timing pulley holders, and I’m not afraid to use them. Ever wish you had an inch-pound torque wrench? I’m the guy who has one.

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You will never get a good bleed at a line fitting. Get the bleeders loose or use a bleeder extractor if they break. Check for fine knock learn and a high AFR correction #. I think above 4 is too high when warm. It the FKLC is more than 2 degrees it"s probably vacuum leaks. If it still has the original intake tube from turbo to filter box it"s probably torn.

Yeah I wouldn’t be the least bit surprised if the inlet is buggered up. Never seen an old one that wasn’t.

I’ll hook up the laptop and log these values.

It definitely needs 4 coil packs.

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WTB rust-free BSM wingless lid. Will drive up to 2 hours radius from Pittsburgh.

Unless you’re in Providence, RI or Akron, OH (I go there for work)

I also occasionally end up in Nashua, NH (late late)

Hit me DM’s up if you have anything?

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Today… spark plug day. No video or walkthrough I’ve reviewed prepared me for the shit storm I endured. Well, my right bicep got a hell of a workout at least. Every plug was overloaded with antiseize to the point the threads were jammed up with the stuff and every plug came out one ridiculously tight 15° ratchet crank at a time. Broke the ceramic on #3 (unless it may have already been broken…?)

Replaced the coolant hose from the reservoir to the top of the turbo with a new OE hose. Replaced the 3” exhaust flange gasket that crumbled on the axle back exhaust.

Had to replace the rear passenger side outer hard line.. need new rear calipers, I have no functional bleeders.

Regardless, my P0303 went away and the car has brakes again. [emoji2369]

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Well factory plugs is not good. Even the best iridiums are only good for 80k at best. Bad or weak fuel pump is a possibility. Huge vacuum leak is a possibilty. You need to start eliminating easy stuff ONE at a time. This is where the Cobb AP or the btssm app is best for realtime reading.

What items should I monitor with SSM? I have that. I was logging with romraider recently just to gauge overall health and everything looked great… until it didn’t.

I haven’t logged anything since it threw the code. No time. It’s been parked because a brake line burst. I just got that fixed up, but now the stupid brake warning light is still on for whatever reason. Yes I replaced the line with an oem part and used Subaru brake fluid and bled the system.. as best I could, considering the bleeders are all frozen solid and the bleeding was done at the new line fitting..

Starting to wonder if this thing might be a bad investment. I keep finding nastiness.

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So today I’m on my way to work and suddenly any time I’m in the throttle even slightly aggressive the car hesitates and lurches like the throttle is slamming shut at More than 60% pedal input.

Car has 187,000 miles and might be on factory spark plugs.

What else should I be changing out?

I have a vag-com and rom raider so I can log it, but I don’t have enough experience with rom raider to know how to review the logs or what I should specifically be logging.

Like.. if I just floor it, it stumbles then tries to haul ass then stumbles again. It’s just.. idk, acting like the throttle blade is slamming shut. The CEL flashes while it does this but goes away when I calm down.

I was under the car earlier putting screw clamps on the heat shields and hosing down all the rust with spray galvanizer. Could overspray have gotten into something?

It has been prefect and rock solid since I bought it in March, so this is kind of abrupt and I’m not sure where to start.

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WTB

EJ255/257 In good running order. Preferably attached to a 5EAT that also works.

I have a feeling mine is on its way out.. it would be handy to have a spare ready to drop in.

(‘05 LGT)

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Idk if I’m in here yet, but..

Evil03 [Jeff]

Pittsburgh PA area

05 LGT 5EAT Silver Sedan

187,xxx miles

Used to have a really nice black/black/black ‘06 LGT 5MT sedan but it got destroyed in a garage fire.

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Got one of these, too. Mines all busted up.

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Waiting for a new lower bolt.. kinda snapped that in half, but specB fronts on today to match the rears I did earlier this week.

Edit: had to get the bolt from a dealership 50 miles south, but I have a friend who drives Uber… sooooo… [emoji51][emoji1787][emoji1787]

All in all, relatively painless. Feels tighter. Needs a touch-up on the alignment, then on to the next issue… this past Tuesday I welded the basketball-sized hole in the trunk shut with old computer cases for filler metal.

Need to figure out muffler mount for the right muffler since that rotted off… spark plugs… some other odds and ends.

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Installed 1/4 of my Bilsteins…

Got yanked off the project by wife’s plans.

Next one will go much quicklier, then the fronts.

Need to patch a gaping hole in my spare tire well.. picked up mig wire… realized my gas bottle is empty. F#ck.

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Today I am trying to get my knock sensor changed. That bolt is a complete pain in the *** to get loose.

Pull the intercooler and the pipe that goes to the throttle body. Get a long 1/4” extension with a ball end and a 12mm socket. Extension and socket go in the gap between the throttle body and the intake in the straightest line possible to reach the knock sensor bolt.. make sure you use a Subaru sensor, clean the surface and torque to spec.

I just had this problem……

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Went shopping in a guy’s garage today and scored this stuff….

My rear struts are blown and this was the logical choice. Got a screaming deal from an awesome guy. [H]

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Also.. will I be able to datalog knock, etc even if I have “the wrong VAGCOM cable?”

I’d like to know more about what the engine is doing. [emoji2369]

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Replaced my knock sensor again.. this time with a Subaru OE unit.

I know.

I SAID I KNOW.

Anyway, checked the boost control hoses since I was digging around and the one that houses the pill was a bit crusty. It’s been having no trouble running 10-11 under load and peaking at 12 in 5th, but I touched the line and I’ll be damned if it didn’t just disintegrate.

Well.. I had a one-step-smaller restrictor pill in a new line from my old ‘06 so I just plugged it in and went for a test drive to verify the knock sensor was functioning again.

No codes.

Interestingly, 4stroke (WiFi ELM iPhone app) said I was nailing 13psi and peaking at 14 in 5th, and averaging 11-12 psi under load.

Previously, same test loop same conditions same high load spots it peaked at 12 and averaged 10-11 under load.

I know I should be concerned about head gaskets since this turd has 187,000 miles on it.. how likely am I to make it go bang on 14psi of occasional momentary boost and more sustained 12 psi with some 13psi mixed in?

It sure feels a lot gooder.

It’ll feel even gooder with new spark plugs. Pretty sure the ones in it have been there since 2004 when it was built. [emoji33]

Oh.. I did a full high-zoot all Japanese roller, belt. Aisin water pump and OE thermostat a couple months ago. I do have a swelling and slightly leaky turbo cooler line, but the temp gauge stays rock solid just under the middle. OBD says temp fluctuates between 180 and 195 like clockwork.

SO FAR.

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Ok, so… I replaced my knock sensor with the one from NAPA a while back… well, the dagblasted thing keeps throwing codes at random for circuit high/circuit low.

I decided to pull it out, THOROUGHLY clean the mounting surface and the base of the sensor and PROPERLY torque it down, at the correct installation angle…

I’ll have to follow up again after I’ve driven on it for a while.

Picking up a set of spec.b struts for front and rear in a week.. from a guy…. Pretty sure they’re off the same car I got my turbo and transmission from when I replaced those on my last LGT. [emoji2369]

I really need to get started on the subiesavers quarter rust repair. It’s getting worse..

..And I still need a rust-free BSM/SIL wingless trunk lid.

Up to 187,000 miles on this rusty shitheap and it still drives better than anything else I’ve ever owned (except for my ‘06 LGT)

Might replace the transmission.. idk.. the 3-4 upshift is kinda harsh.

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Anything Alex Terrible sings is amazing.

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Nobody local has one. Need it for tomorrow.

 

 

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Bought one from NAPA… $120… it’s their brand but they say it works and it has a 3 year warranty. [emoji2369]

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Use the Subaru Knock sensor.

Nobody local has one. Need it for tomorrow.

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I need a knock sensor…

Is the $160 one a requirement, or can somebody recommend one that is known to work?

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