Turninconcepts

No worries. Spacers transferred from OE bushing. There are 2 bushing kits. One for older cars, and one for LGT/08+ Imp.

 

www.RalliTEK.com

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w151/RalliTEK/nasioc-banner.gif

not the crush tubes, but a thickness thing. Since you've got two kits out that address it you've got it covered.

I thought I did everything. I guess I am wrong.

 

I have the Beatrush support on order (will be a few weeks).

 

 

Here is some stuff from Rallitek that you guys may be interested in, anybody try them:

 

http://www.rallitek.com/avogemobu1.html

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-49187380673845_2028_1856864

tranny crossmember bushings. One needs to be either thicker or a spacer bushing run as the 05+ LGT and 08 Imprezas have one bushing that is a bit thicker than the older setup. If this kit has a bushing that is a little thicker then it's good. If it's a kit for the older car setups then it won't work.

Update from WL. Turns out they also fitted a set on a legacy last week, and made this discovery.

they are going to be releasing an updated model listing in the next few weeks on what else will fit.

Please do!

 

Rear diff superpro are available? Anyway, it seems that WL inserts are the winner (if they work) as they do not require pulling the subframe...

 

...unless there are subframe inserts/bushings that would make pulling it worthwhile. I doubt anyone will tell you how they look as it's unlikely anyone would remove the subframe. The best bet would be to order new subframe bushing and try the insert. Would be cool if you could do that.

yep - from what we can tell they are all the same dimensions for the R160 setup. I have some here as we're going to try them on the SVX.

Ok - few things -

Front control arm rear bushings - the 2008 Impreza ALK won't really fit without some work. Tony reminded me that someone tried the Superpro kit that all of you guys use on an 08, and the stack heights are different.

Front control arm forward bushing - WL has a WRX and an STi version (they are different). One of them may work with the LGT. We need to crossreference part numbers.

Rear subframe inserts - don't know. Anybody have pics of them? I can tell you pretty quick. Keep in mind that Tom@Kartboy has also released some doughnuts for that on the Impreza that may also work well for that location.

Rear diff mount bushings rear of the diff - there's the WL inserts, there's the good old superpro press in bushings, and then there's the group N ones.

on the front control arms - we think they should, but we have not confirmed for real, and haven't heard from WL on those.

The kdt bushings are the rear diff kit such as you see there, and the rear subframe kit. The part numbers recently changed to the kdt naming scheme.

I will ask WL to make a half kit.

PM sent.

Parts sent. Even if they don't fit feel free to keep the stickers.

Bump. I could have tried it by now.

Bump. You're right. Enough waiting. PM me your address.

The opening on our bushings are diferent and the lower diff bushings wouldn't work either.

 

They need to get op on the Legacy stuff.

Yeah - that's the part I can't remember. That's why I want to slide under a car and take a look.

Will those work on an LGT?

 

If you are not sure I will test it for you.

That is the question. I'd like to have a local stop by as I'd like to check on these, and also these:

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/129590-2008-whiteline-rear-subframe-bushings-w0598.html

Here's what I'm talking about on these:

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/128779-2008-whiteline-rear-diff-bushing-install.html

Please do but do you mean solid compared to having the gaps on top and bottom? Wonder if we can use Impreza bushings.

I mean solid compared to having no gaps on one side, and the other has very thin gaps.

I have new new 2008 Group N catalog. I will check for replacements there. OD and tube thickness seems to be around 55mm. If someone has their legacy apart currently can they measure width. I believe they are around the same.

Interesting discovery today -

Pulled the cradle mount of the 08 to take a look. Seems the bushings on each side are different. One is solid, and the other has voids.

IIRC, the LGT bushings are the same with voids on each side.

Pics coming soon.

Do the real deal if necessary. I think many would rip off the diff and subframe to fix the problem right (I would).

have you tried to rip it off yet? Those Indiana farm boys building these things take a torque spec and quadruple it.

Psssst...

 

Post 403!

 

Thanks anyway but that is what we were talking about due to the space limitations.

yeah - I saw that. I was just emphasizing that inserts I think are the best bet on this so far.

The thing that I keep trying to figure out is the install. From looking at the car locally, and how difficult it was to even just get to the bushings I have to think of some way that a normal human can do this.

As this point I am resigned to the fact that perhaps an insert would be best for the rear diff bushings.

The reason being it would be much easier to install. Just a couple of nuts, some grease, push the insert in, and re-apply nuts.

Rallitek has more experience on inserts than we do though so I'd like to know their thoughts.

I'm talking about these, which look to be very nice quality, but these can be built equally as good for under $100. I'm just not sure I want/need them at this time.

http://www.jscspeed.com/lgt/lgt_base.html

Thank you for the clarification. I thought you were talking about something else as well. Specifically these:

http://www.turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?products_id=335

On those arms - you're looking at tube, tube ends (one side left hand threaded), good rod ends (one side of each left hand threaded, and be sure to buy GOOD rod ends - Aurora as a minimum, FK for better), jam nuts, and you're going to need to mill some high misalignment spacers to fit the cleavis, and make up the angles that you may need.

Overall, very simple parts, but most folks don't have access to the equipment to make the small bits that they need.

So far so good on filling the bushings. I was WOT in first and second many times this morning with no thumping, vibration, etc. Just smooth acceleration.

 

I agree with Seeeee Yaa, even if bushings come to market, they will be a bear to install. Not an easy job for a weekend do it yourselfer, like myself.

 

For those interested in trying out the poly filler method, if replacement bushings do come out, the filled bushings will not be any harder to remove than stock ones. Also, the rear diff can also be removed just the same as stock. Other than costing a few bucks and being a PITA to clean up, I see no drawbacks so far to using the windshield poly to eliminate the growling rear end issues.

 

After looking at the rear Lower control arm bushings I decided to leave those for another day.

I've got two GC style rear subframes here that I've been using to take measurements for these (GC and LGT use the same bushing). One of the big hold-ups in all of this is how to get the old bushings out. That's going to be the most difficult part of all this.

Even with a trick split design it's that teardown that's killing me.

Oh - did you find that the lower diff carrier bolts were put on by a gorilla when you did yours?

With the extra power I have now I can get the noise in ANY temp!

 

I am willing to try any new part, just send it this way!

I'll be honest - we had pushed this to one side until the weather got cooler since it seems that we wouldn't be able to get a good test platform. Now that you can do it in all temps I'll move it up in the development plans.

Ok, bringing this back. My car started doing this on Friday except in the front. It is a deep groaning noise with vibration and you can feel it in the floorboard right by the firewall. The dealership spent 3 hours and couldnt not find an issue with with the CV joints or bearings and hand no clue what it was.

 

Please read this to see if its the same thing. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1296057#post1296057

Amy - check the LCA bushings up front.

cracked rotors are not uncommon problems with Porsche brakes. And most Porsche brake rotors are CAST with the holes in them!

There's a $300 bounty on anyone who can provide evidence of cast in holes. That bounty has been around for a few years now, and so far no takers.

 

Also, Im inclined to say that autoX cars do not need to be bled that much. Youre never going to get the fluid anywhere near boiling points in that application. Get a high quality fluid and it will last a pretty good amount of time. The GS610 fluid we carry is more dense and adds slightly to the pedal feel.

i would generally agree with this, but quite a bit depends on the courses you have setup in your area. I personally have boiled and heated ATE superblue to the point that it came out brown, and smelled/tasted very burnt.

On the actual bleeding: Avoid pumping the pedal really hard. You want to keep the bubbles as large as possible so you can see them. If you pump the brakes fast/hard, you turn those into little tiny ones.

 

Absolutely. stabbing at the pedal will just allow the fluid to flow past the bubbles. it's steady smooth pumps that get them to move along.

Couple of notes Clint:

 

You can do one man bleeding without Speedbleeders (which I dont like either). Something like a Motive Power Bleeder would work here.

 

Also, Im inclined to say that autoX cars do not need to be bled that much. Youre never going to get the fluid anywhere near boiling points in that application. Get a high quality fluid and it will last a pretty good amount of time. The GS610 fluid we carry is more dense and adds slightly to the pedal feel.

 

On the actual bleeding: Avoid pumping the pedal really hard. You want to keep the bubbles as large as possible so you can see them. If you pump the brakes fast/hard, you turn those into little tiny ones.

 

The car should be OFF.

 

Also be sure to clean the reservior area.

I think I mentioned the pressure or vacuum bleeders, but it's good to put emphasis on it.

I am not familiar with the GS610 - can you PM me some info? We do ATE or RBF600 on the cars here that we work on.