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rkrenicki

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Posts posted by rkrenicki

  1. Ohhh! I need your help ...i was buld just same project like you, also i live in japan and my leggy is a jdm gt-vdc ... so, i change yesterday my "c" headlights to the "d" model, all lights working fine but the electronic adjustment system don't...where is the difference on systems, al cables is the sabe socket type abd all wire is same color on same position ...how do you do on your car?

     

    You need to replace the leveler switch in your dash with a D-type switch. They changed the signalling between the A-C types and D-type. The switches look identical, but are not cross-compatible for some reason.

  2. http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/Car%20Galleries/2004%20BEE/IMG_2061.jpg

     

    http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/Car%20Galleries/2004%20BEE/IMG_2058.jpg

     

    http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/Car%20Galleries/2004%20BEE/IMG_2055.jpg

     

    http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/Car%20Galleries/2004%20BEE/IMG_2048.jpg

     

    http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/Car%20Galleries/2004%20BEE/IMG_2041.jpg

  3. Are you sure you bought a D-type hood? The JDM A-C type hoods are essentially identical to the Baja one. Most of them are steel as well.

     

    Is the hood on the car the same color? I find it extremely unlikely that the shop just happened to have a turbo Baja hood in the same color, considering how rare the turbo Baja is..

  4. Oh wait, you have a Wagon. The issue is that the back of your car is heavier than those struts were designed for.

     

    Sure, the turbo stuff adds weight, but your EJ25 block will be heavier than the EJ20 block in Japan. The front end weight difference is very slight between the two.. not enough to give you 1/2" lift in the front.

     

    I know that the "aftermarket" JDM Bilsteins have two settings for the rear, one for BE and one for BH. I am not sure if the OE ones do as well. I can take a peek at mine next time I have the wheel off. If it does have the two settings, then you need to move the lower spring seat in the rear to the BH position. If you do not have two settings, then you will likely just need top-hat spacers to compensate for the weight difference.

  5. Yeah, I compared my front and rear springs the other day, pressing on them, and the rears seemed far more stiff than the fronts. I've been keeping my eye out on the black market for a used Whiteline rear sway for the past few weeks. Many people say to get both the front and rear, but the car should handle faster around corners with just the rear I would think because adding a front sway increases understeer (although creating faster turn-in response). I have not looked into upgrading stabilizer bars on these cars (just got my BE around 2 months ago). Do you think upgrading it would make noticeable differences?

     

    I am the person Grimm was talking about with the whitelines in both the front and rear. The rear was a massive improvement. I highly recommend that. The front was not as much. I like the increased steering response, but the return of the under steer I am not so keen on. At least it is not as bad as it was stock..

  6. What, this S401?

     

    http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/D-day/IMAG0165_zps7d323f55.jpg

     

    http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/SLi%20Meet%20Feb%202013/IMG_1067_zps41724652.jpg

     

    Or my car next to it? (oh yea, and a bit of MrLancasters 5th gen over on the right.. heh)

     

    http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/o739/rkrenickisli/D-day/IMG_1206_zps113f9ff9.jpg

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