malimx6

Thank you for your assistance and help and sry for delay in response as I was on road yesterday. I'm trying to get info at the moment on how this all works. I will try and hook up the car and see what diagnostics show.

Thank you for confirming. Now I know it's passanger aide, this ia great info. However, when I got that cel with p2008 code few weeks ago, I cleared the code and yesterday cel came back but now it throwing a different code, p0172 fuel system rich. Any idea what this could be? Is it fuel injector? When I had fuel injector go bad on cyl #2 few years back, it was a different code, cant remember the code but it was misfire on cyl#2. Any ideas? Tyia

Can anybody help, please? How do I determine which side of the engine has this issue? Also, is this TGV motor or sensor causing this? TYIA

Anybody?

Hello, I need assistance with P2008 code, Intake manifold runner control circuit/open bank 1a. I'm getting some mixed info here on the forum from what I've been reading and before I mess around with my car, I thought I'd check with you guys first First, it's a completely stock 05 LGT, no mods. I got the code about a month ago and it went on its own. Yesterday I noticed a little stutter when engine is cold but when it warms up fully after about 10 min of driving, it's fine. I have CEL since yesterday. I've been reading about TGVs and whatever. I kind of have an idea what they are, but I don't want to mess with it before I fully understand. What I've been reading here it could be as simple as connector issue. I guess, first question is, what is the best way to get this issue troubleshooted? Where is this TGV located for this particular code? Where is this sensor and its connector? I'd like to visually check the cable to ensure there is no damage, however, there has been no work done to the vehicle recently that could cause damage to cables or connectors. Thank you!

hey, thanks for the reply. Of course, took the engine cover off. Unbolted the coolant tank and pushed it to the side so it's out of the way. Unhooked that breather hose, had to do that on both sides of the engine. Pried out the OCV with screwdriver slowly, one it was out I was able to move it out with hands. Once it hits the coolant tank bracket, turned it 90 degrees. Wiggled it to the point that I could no longer move it with my hands, needed about 1.5cm more to come out. I got a blister on my finger from wiggling and pushing lol that's how tight it was. If that bracket was in like 2-3mm towards the engine, OCV would slide out easily. I might try tapping that coolant tank bracket with hammer just to gain the clearance. I'm just afraid to break it.

I wiggled it and rotated and it was stuck on the coolant tank bracket/mount. Needed about 1.5-2cm more to take it out. I was afraid if I force it out, I wouldn't be able to put it back in. I am trying to swap the driver side with passenger side to see if it code will change from P0021 to P0011.

Do you mean, tap the bracket with hammer a little to push it out? It's pretty strong. I tried with a screw driver and bent it :/

how did you pry out the passenger side? I got to the point where it needed about 1.5-2cm to come out but I was afraid to damage it and also if it pops out, not being able to put it back in. Any tips on taking out the passenger side would be appreciated.

I'm assuming 7355 is cardone part# off RockAuto?? I want to ensure that is a correct part# for LGT front passenger side axel. thx

Hi, I'm confused about part numbers for 05 LGT. Is part# 7355 for LGT or non turbo? or both? Thank you!

Thanks, I'll let my dealer know.

Hi, what email notification? What was the problem? I took my car to multiple dealers to fix this. They either tighten everything or lubricated the rails. One dealer took that plastic panel off and put it back on and it still squeals. It even squeals when I'm getting in/out of car. I only weight 160lb. What's the next step? Replace the rails? Please help Thanks.

So I'm not crazy. Thank you! Yes, I agree. A/C thing turning on on its own, studdering/stuttering and RATLES in a dashboard!

That's not the case with my car. I hit the fan + twice to bring it up to 2nd speed. If A/C kicks in, I hit A/C button to turn it off. After driving a while, A/C will kick in on its own, OR if I (sometimes, again) turn temp down a bit. I don't wanna sound bitchy about these problems, I know any car is not perfect, but FIX THE GODDAMN THING!!!! WHY do I ALWAYS have to get "IT'S NORMAL" answer, or "problem didn't appear when rep took it for test drive', or 'we fixed it and problem didn't reapear' and as soon as I sit in the goddamn car I see the problem is still there. *uck that, if some ppl here don't mind that, they can keep buying these cars - I won't!!!!

That's what I do, but after a while A/C still kicks in, sometimes on its own, sometimes I turn the temp down 1-2C, but still, that shouldn't trigger the A/C. Delaer said, "It's normal".

Okay! How do I set the A/C manually then? This is what I do: everything is off. Hit the fan button twice to bring the fan to 2nd speed. Everything is nice until an A/C kicks in for no reason. Sometimes, I'll turn the temp down about 1-2C and A/C will just kick in. If this is normal, how do I set the A/C manually then?

Here's my question: I always use manual mode, and set the right temp for me, but every time for some reason A/C kicks in and I don't even need it. I mean, I set the temp at about 23-24C when it's only about 10C outside, and I don't need A/C running at that temp, why does it kick in? I complained to my dealer which is 100 miles from where I live as soon as I bought the car about this issue, and they said that this car has sensors so that's normal. I ask the guy, well, why is it called manual mode if the A/C kicks in on it's own and sensors are being used, and he shruged and said it's normal. wtf? Why is every problem NORMAL to Subaru?